Danny Lectro
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Posts posted by Danny Lectro
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Rattle can or airbrush? If you're using an airbrush, you could paint it with Tamiya or other water based acrylic bottle paint, dampen a cotton swab with Windex, and wipe away the paint from the raised areas.
Tamiya rattle-can paints have a different formulation from the bottle paints, so I don't think this technique will work in them.
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I also remember the kit having some really fine detail, but it has been a while since I looked at mine.
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Thanks, Mike. I got most of it cleaned up already - by following your lead and Bill's.
I'm still working on a bigger bug-a-boo: KNCTR. Malware says it has to be 'not running' to eliminate it, but it is running constantly, so the malware won't work. Catch-22.
Does your software have an option to run a boot-time scan (scanning during a system start-up)? Take a look in the options in Malwarebytes. If you can do that, it may be able to deal with the infected program before it starts up in Windows. Only do it when you have time to let the scan run, windows won't start until the scan is done.
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I have one, and started building it. Mine had a short-shot hood, so I decided to hot-rod it, but moved on to something else when I had some things to figure out.
I found that the parts fit together really well, but the frame is in multiple pieces, and mine came out with a twist due to slightly warped parts. The engine, interior and suspension went together beautifully. Body looks really good.
My example had chrome that was faded, but came off really easily with Simple Green, so I can repaint it.
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Good luck with the house hunt, John.
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Gregg,
I haven't commented on the new look, because I figured I would get used to it after spending a little time with it, which is exactly what is happening. Some things are very different, but they haven't caused any big problems for me yet.
Thanks for maintaining this forum, and for putting up with everything you have to put up with during the changeover.
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Looks good, John! Nice job on the weathering.
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I really like what you're doing with the bodywork!
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Brake fluid can be very effective. However, in my experience, it can weaken styrene plastic if left to soak for more than a few hours, making it brittle and even causing it to crack while soaking.
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I've often thought that one could sell some sort of useless goo in a plastic bladder printed with the message: "thank you for your purchase of useless goo, thereby affirming the notion that some people are stupid enough to buy anything" and people would buy it just because it's so true
Around here, we call that Starbucks Coffee!
I don't get why people are quick to buy the General Lee Kits at the ridiculous price there selling for.
I think some people have it in their heads that the whole thing isn't just a marketing ploy, and this is really and truly the last time they will have an opportunity to get those items.
Some people probably think they will be able to flip their purchases at a future date for a profit, even at these inflated prices.
And, from what I've seen, some people think that they are striking a blow for freedom or sticking it to the man by throwing their money away on collectibles. I'm reminded of a line in a song: "They got you thinking that buying is rebelling."
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I find Simple Green works better than Purple Power to soften the undercoat enough to remove. Unfortunately, it still needs scraping with a dental pick or probe to get the stuff out of parts like grills and finned valve covers.
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Thank you!Good luck with the rest of the build.
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Looking forward to a demonstration of the salt technique. Lotsa pictures, please.
Hi Charles,
Sorry, but I have come to realize that the salt chipping technique is not going to work with this build. I really should have waited until the body was painted before adding the aero.
But to briefly describe the technique: After doing your base coat, you spritz your model with some kind of fluid (some people use water, some people use hairspray, I was using water with a bit of dish detergent added), then you sprinkle on some salt and let it set. Spray on your color coat(s) and let it dry. Knock off the salt with a stiff brush and a toothpick for any stubborn spots. You will be left with what should look like natural chips in the paint.
There are multiple videos available on YouTube if you want a visual demonstration. Search for "Salt chipping technique", you'll find plenty of people who can explain it way better than I can, including our own Dr. Cranky.
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IThe ZG nose and aero bits would be fiberglass, most likely. paint the chips in those ghost grey acrylic, and wipe away the excess for weathered fiberglass.
I like this idea! Thank you for the suggestion.
And thank you all for your input. I have applied salt to the rest of the car, aero included, and I've decided to paint the car all in purple. After the color coat dries, I will use a stencil to apply a flaming skull graphic to the hood. Then I will knock off the salt, paint the chips in the aero grey, and scuff up the paint with some fine grit sandpaper.
I will post photos when I make some more progress.
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I like that very much. Nice job!
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I'd like a bit of input from you kind folks.
I've been applying some salt masking before the next stage of paint:
...and I think I may have painted myself into a corner by attaching the fender flares and air dam prior to painting.
I think the salt chipping shouldn't be done on the aero bits, considering they would most likely be made of GRP or FRP instead of steel. I expect they would weather differently than the steel, or more likely the driver would have attached the aero to an already-weathered bodyshell. However, if the aero was attached to an already-weathered body shell, it likely wouldn't be the same color as the bodyshell. don't think I can properly mask off the aero, with all of it's compound curves, and I doubt brush-painting it with another color will come out looking even enough (unless I go all out with making this look like a car put together by a nitwit with more money than sense or style, who just brush-painted the aero in his garage). Final clear-coat might even it out, but I don't know if I want to rely on it.
So, my questions are: Do I apply the salt masking to the aero for consistency, or do I try brush-painting the aero with some properly thinned semi-gloss black to look like added on parts? How would painted FRP body panels weather if they were exposed to the elements at the same rate as the steel?
I'm kind of invested in the idea of doing a weathered car at this point, so I'd rather not give up on it, but I also want to make it look believable.
Thanks in advance!
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As Bill said in his last post, these photos date back to 2009, when the global recession was still in full swing. In addition, some of the photos were of cars awaiting export shipment. Check these out for more context.
http://www.snopes.com/photos/automobiles/unsoldcars.asp
http://www.hoax-slayer.com/unsold-car-stockpile-photographs.shtml
There is also an article on Jalopnik.com, but I won't link to it as there is a minor cuss-word in the URL.
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Same here, Joe.In all honesty, this is still one of my favorite Batmobiles
One problem I have with the recent Batmobiles, they are just too big. How does Batman drive through the narrow streets of Gotham with something like that? As much as I like the looks of some of what the films present, I'd kind of like to see a film where Batman drives a car that is small, fast and nimble. The Bat-Pod sort of fits that bill, but it doesn't really have a "Batman" kind of look to it.
I also don't get how Batman, who never uses guns, always drives vehicles that are festooned with high caliber weaponry?
The '66 Batmobile has some nice lines to it, but I just can't accept all of the bright colors stuck to it. I'd like to build the Polar Lights kit, but I'd have to do it dark, as befits the Dark Knight.
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Much respect to you, Kenneth!
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Thank you!Looking good so far!
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Thank you, Bill. The kit comes with the single-cam engine. I'll be saving it for another project, but I don't know what yet.Like it, lots. Looks like the fender extensions on the actual kit are more exaggerated than the box-art would lead you to believe.
Is the kit engine the single-cam or the DOHC ?
I think you're right about the overfenders. It's not the only discrepancy between the box art and the model. Where the box art shows door mounted mirrors, the kit only offers fender mounted mirrors.
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Looking really good Danny, hang in there...
Thank you, Carl.
What Irked You Today?
in The Off-Topic Lounge
Posted
It is pretty crazy. I really enjoyed working with Testors' Super-Fine Lacquer Primer, but I came to realize that since it comes packaged in the normal Model Master bottle but is pre-thinned for airbrushing, it is actually much more expensive than the regular Model Master paints when you look at the cost / coverage ratio. I switched to working with decanted Krylon primers, but it's just not the same. I may still use the Super-Fine Lacquer for special projects.
As far as thinners go, I buy in bulk whenever possible. Home Depot enamel thinner for Testors enamels and Costco-size jugs of Windex for Tamiya and other water-based acrylics. However, I've been hesitant to get lacquer thinner from Home Depot, as I've read the bulk stuff is really hot and can damage styrene very easily.