Danny Lectro

I wonder if, at some point, you may have accepted a friend request from a cloned account. Check your friends list, see if this person's name shows up twice. This could explain why mutual friends don't see her as active.

I think you've done an excellent job on this model, Michael. I like that you added hoses and cables to the build. I've built one of these myself, and they are a lot of fun. I think the mold quality rivals Tamiya kits I have built.

I've been obsessed with Within Temptation's Hydra album since i stumbled across it a month or so ago:

I remember Mr. Glass on Barney Miller, but Firefly is where I feel I really know him as an actor. This one has hit me pretty hard.

Finished model! Main pod, with small manipulators extended and pickup bed attached: Small manipulators stowed, large manipulators attached and stowed: Large manipulators extended: Aaaaaand, I just got kicked off my photo host. I'll try to add more finished photos tomorrow.

Revell Pinewood Derby dry transfer numbers, red-brown panel line wash, 2 or three shades of rust, and engine oil enamel:

The Space Pod Crab 03 kit contains ABS plastic parts to build 2 models, one partially made of clear plastic as a gimmick. I decided to build the two models one-at-a-time, to make it easier to deal with parts. I started by clipping the parts from the sprues, fixing sprue scars, putting together sub-assemblies and fixing seams: I then began painting with AMMO of Mig Jimenez and Tamiya paints:

I am seeing so much excellent work in this thread. Keep it up, everybody! I have been plugging along on my builds, and documenting with photos, but I haven't been good about posting the photos here. Sorry about that, let's see if I can make up for it. Here are more photo's on the First Order Special Forces Tie Fighter: Here is a completed solar panel / radiator: Red fuselage parts, with pre-shading that didn't really show up very well in the end: An then I forgot a about taking photos for a bit. Here is the finished fighter attached to the kit-supplied display base, to show just how much detail gets covered up by the attachment: So I made my own with a brass rod inserted into one of the thruster nozzles of the fighter: I tried to give a shadow effect to the kit's sand dune base buy spraying white primer on one side of the dunes over a brown primer base... ...but it didn't show up at all after painting with sand yellow. I then mounted the fighter and the sand dunes to a wooden plaque that I stained with Tamiya clear smoke acrylic paint. Here are the photos of the finished item. Edit: Some of my WIP photos show up with skewed proportions. Does it look like that for anyone else?

That really is excellent work! Good job on lighting the Batmobile, and the display base looks great.

Wow!! I like it. Very interesting combination.

Wow, that is really good!

There are a few old films I can watch over and over: -It's A Wonderful Life -12 Angry Men -The Day The Earth Stood Still -Disney's Robin Hood Of a more recent vintage, are: -Star Trek: First Contact -Finding Nemo -Nausicaa Of The Valley Of The Wind

It's too bloody hot in NYC for painting, so I'm currently at an impasse. I am planning to go to science-fiction/fantasy oriented model show in a couple of weeks, and I wanted to have both of my chosen kits ready to enter in their contest. Now it looks like I'll be lucky to have one complete in time. However, I do have some progress to show from the last couple weeks, mostly on the TIE Fighter's cockpit. I decided to cheat a bit and use the kit's stick-on decals for the cockpit (it comes with both stick-on and waterslide). I don't think it will be too noticeable once the fuselage has been fully assembled around it. The parts were painted AMMO gray over Testors Super Fine primer. I will probably apply a bit of panel line wash before adding the pilot and gunner figures. The solar panels / radiators / whatever Disney calls them this week were painted with Testors magnesium Metallizer and buffed out with a cloth wheel on my Dremel at lowest speed.

That looks great, Wayne!

Like I said, there was some clumsiness involved on my part. I think it may have been a mistake to make my first attempt at the technique on something so small. In any case, my red color coat went wrong, and I need to strip the acrylics off and try again.

I did thin it, and I did lower the air pressure. I'm using an Aztek airbrush, as it has always worked for me in the past, but it doesn't handle fine line work very well in single action mode, and I have never gotten the hang of using it in double action mode. There was also a bit of clumsiness involved on my part, LOL.

Wayne, once again, excellent work on your tank. I am slowly getting into it on my First Order TIE Fighter. The cockpit controls and seat have been painted silver, as per photos of a completed model in the kit's manual. These will be detailed with decals and washes, and I will probably paint the "cushions" of the seat flat black. I am using Ammo of Mig Jimenez paints on this build. I discovered these paints don't adhere well to Bandai's plastic, so i am also using Testors Super Fine Lacquer primer underneath most of the color coats. The parts below will be red on the final model, I am attempting to do some pre-shading with Ammo of Mig medium gunship gray between the Testors primer and the final color of Ammo of Mig red. {img]https://scontent-lga3-1.xx.fbcdn.net/t31.0-8/13925937_10208036335804269_2361644641269332354_o.jpg This is my first time attempting pre-shading, and I can tell it went wrong. I'm not sure yet if I will bother stripping the Ammo of Mig paint with Windex and give it another go, or just stick with what I have.

Thanks, Phil! Thank you, Bill. I decided against saying it had a Chevy, since it seems like everybody and their grandmother does an LS swap these days. I actually toyed with the idea of claiming it had a Toyota/Lexus 1UZ, but thought that might be going a tad to far.

Thank you, everyone!

Thank you all for the kind words.

Nice work joining these machines together.

Nice work!

I like it! Great idea, well executed.

Thanks! Yes, they were included.

Tetsuo, a wannabe street racer with more money than sense, bought a nice 240Z, just to start cutting it up to add fiberglass aero. He never thought about upgrading, or even repairing, the stock L24 straight-six under the hood. After losing a large sum of money on races, he decided to sell the car. He set the price to try to recoup the money he spent on the car, plus the money he lost racing. Between the exorbitant asking price, the damage he did to the body, and the poor reputation the car gained during the owner's failed street-racing career, the car languished on the market for a long time. Eventually, he found a buyer named Kaneda, but had to accept less than half of his asking price. Kaneda knew repairing the bodywork would be an expensive and arduous task, so he decided to leave the bodywork, bad paint and vinyl stickers as is and concentrate on mechanical upgrades. He upgraded the brakes, suspension, and had the engine swapped for a small block Ford V-8. When the work was completed, Kaneda started going to street-racing events. The other racers remembered the car, and it's miserable performance, from Tetsuo's time driving it, and thought Kaneda would be an easy mark. Kaneda made quite a bit of money in those first few months, before the car's reputation caught up with its performance. This is Fujimi's Nissan Fairlady 240Z Full Works Version, finished as a curbside model. This was my first time cutting up body work to fit add-on aero parts, so things didn't go as well as I would have liked. Instead of putting the kit to the side, I decided to go with it, and make a distressed and abused street-racer. The body color is Tamiya Bronze acrylic. Chassis, interior and hood are painted with Tamiya Semi-Gloss black. Trim was masked and painted with Tamiya Gloss Black. Decals are Revell Pinewood Derby dry transfers. I used various Ammo of Mig Jimenez products to add weathering and distressing. Black thread was used to replicate zip-ties holding cracked aero together. Header ends were made from K&S aluminum tube, I used a Dremel with a ball-shaped grinding bit to thin out the inside bore of the tubes to make them look more scale-correct. Here is the WIP: http://www.modelcarsmag.com/forums/topic/100787-nissan-240zg-track-toy/ Here are the finshed photos: Here is a shot of the finished model in its display box, next to my '25 Model T rat rod: