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Bill J

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Posts posted by Bill J

  1. Mark I use Tamiya masking tapes alsp. They have some that works really good on curves also. A little pricey but considering the cost of painting and the cost of your time, the Tamiya is well worth it's cost.

    As far as the liquid masks go. I have tried several over the years, Humbrol being the most functional. It's a rubbery vinyl sort of and it peels off fairly easily as long as you do it soon after the paint dries. I only used it inside bodies, like the grey on a 80'90's NASCAR. I never attempred using it on multi colored paint schemes. I use the Tamiya to mask my breaks and cover the larger areas with some regular masking tape and some kitchen cling wrap.

    ixIP9u6.jpg

    Painted this Bud Moore  with Rangoon red, whimbledon white and black, I used Tamiya paint except the red was Scalefinishes acylic enamel. Tamiya tapes and the cling wrap technique to cover large areas.

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  2. Excellent detail work Josh. The Cobra is really looking awesome. Thank you for the heads up that you were back at it too! So much going on in life these days I don't check on things as much as I would like. Your message was most thoughtful.

    Seeing the windshield fit issue makes me want to chack to see if the "glass" from the Gunze-Sanyo kit is a better fit on the HRM body...

  3. 2 hours ago, Rob Hall said:

    Back in the 80s, my sister's first Z was a metallic brown '78, 5 spd, w/ wire wheels..bought it used in Mesa, AZ in 1980 to replace her tired '76 Pinto she and husband #1 had driven from Ohio.   She traded it on a gray '85 300 ZX 2+2, then that was replaced by a silver '90 300ZX Turbo. 

    Maybe your sister bought my 78 Z. I sold it to a guy that worked for First National Bank of Arizona. Never saw the car or the guy again.  Sounda like your sister likes fun little cars, well, maybe not the Pinto :)

  4. In 1977 I was at the Datsun dealer when the first truck load of 1978 280Z's arrived. I picked mine out while it was still on the truck. Last year for the regular Z and the engine was a little larger with fuel injection. Mine was a 5-speed metallic brown with factory air. Super fun car. A bit impractical because it was so small, i was a 4x4 guy, sold my 1970 Bronco to buy the Z.

    I recall driving down the freeway one evening and the wife says, everyone is going so slow tonight. I checked the speedo and I was sailing along at 90. Pretty smooth car, you'd never know it was going that fast.

    Ok, enough war stories, I would love a kit of an American version 280Z with the bumpers, which Datsun made to look pretty nice compared to most American cars of the day. I really like the genuine metal window trim and headlight trim. US versions never came with headlight covers, some law prevented them. Cool cars through the present versions.

    I actually sold my Z after 6 months. Too small. I bought a Chevy K5 Blazer, still only buy 4x4 SUV's. 

  5. Super nice 67 Cougar GT. I really like that color, perfect for the Cougar. Great paint job.

    The 67 brings back memories for me. In 1969-71 I had a nice black on black 67 Cougar GT, 390, 4-speed without air conditioning. I had some Crager wheels on it. Goodyear Ployglas GT tires which I burned through a lot. I was young :) I got inside that 390 and put in solid lifters/rockers and a NASCAR FE cam. Put on some headers and it was a go getter. We also had a 69 Torino Cobra with the 428 CJ with a C6 tranny that the wife drove. We used to meet at my parents after work once a week and then we'd drag race all the way to our house. Total squirrels! Had a lot of fun in both those cars. the 428 CJ would still beat the modded 390, might of been the auto tranny or the wheel spin on the Cougar. Definately some kids having fun without a car in the world.

  6. Nice work so far Gerald. I am a little baffled as to why you are changing the top of the windshield. The real problem might be us sourcing a clear windshield after the mods. I was thinking just buy a 76 Torino kit for the glass, that seems "out the windiw" now. Am I missing something?

    I was hoping for the Montego earlier version, the one used after the 73 Montego GT. I know, you can't please us all :)

  7. I like the Salvino's Charger a lot. Best kit they've done so far. My guess is they are planning some later versions, marking wise and they appear to have a small block engine in the kit for the car which they ran like 76-77 or so. I am going to have to quit staring at these bodies on the table and start building again. I get my excellent 73 Montego GT in today's mail. Tim and Gerald are my heroes :)

     

  8. Very nice MK IV. Looks like the real car. I do believe that LMM made the best MK IV. I wish they stll sold the Gurney/Foyt car. I would love to build one. I have one of the LMM GT-40 MK I kits, the full detail one. Directions are limited and there is a lot to the kit. I have looked it over a time or two but always close the box back up.

    LMM are very nice people to deal with. Angèle goes all out to please.

  9. I don't think so Doc. I seldom clear coat, I figure it's one more way to ruin a paint job. I live in the desert and usually decals hold up well without clear. Some years ago I did a Wood Brother's T'Bird that was all poppy red and it had Slixx decals on it. The paint was kind of dull so I shot it with Testor's clear, it now looks like a million cracks all over. The paint had been cured for like 10 years and the Testor's clear ruined it. The original paint was Testor's Model Master Chevrolet Engine Red. All enamels. I just have bad results when clearing.

    Which is why I decided to try the Pledge stuff. Like you. I had trouble finding the correct product. They changed the bottle and the name several times. The bottle Mark J shows was once the name/label and now it is the Revive It Pledge. So far I have used it a few times with acceptable results. Not as glossy as some of 2 part automotive clear coats but those have a very short shelf life and the Pledge seems good indefinately and goes on well. I airbrushed it, no thinning and so far, so good. Be careful not to over coat when using it. It is thin and so clear it is hard to see when to back off. Good luck!

  10. The bottle you show in your original post Doc is the right product. I have a bottle and have used it a few times. It has a little learning curve. I found that it may look like you've ruined your finish, just walk away and it will likly settle, smooth out and be perfect. For sure, test a few times.

    I used it over Tamiya gold to smooth the gold paint before I decaled this Coke Mercury. First shot it looked like I was going to have to strip and start over, I walked away and let it settle and it was perfect after a short time.

    E165pKz.jpg.

  11. 6 hours ago, vamach1 said:

    I was not sure of the make since my Japanese reading level is zero. 🙂

    I send a friend request via Facebook to YABUKI who wrote the article.  Maybe his English is better than my Japanese.

    31752DC1-97D5-4CC8-9733-337A7EC3AB84.jpeg

    Contacting the article writer is a great idea Rex, Hope we hear back. I know about 2 words in Japanese and nothing of the written language. I looked on my PC for some pictures of a MFH Daytona Coupe kit, when I was researching trying to decide on what kit to buy. The MFH kit came with a lot of white metal parts, incuding the entire floor pan. The photoetch included a nifty air box for the Webers, which I liked. It also shows on built models the opening side glass. From what I can find today, they made 3 kits to replicate serveral of the 1:1 chassis and incuded subtle variations along with race markings for those chassis as raced.

    I agree with Mark J, Josh you are doing an outstanging job on your Daytona Coupe and I am sure you'll come up with a novel and beautiful solution to more accurately replicate the side glass. I look forward to each update on your build. Really fantastic work!

  12. Pretty sure the pics of the model in the Japanese magazine is of one of the Model Factory Hiro kits. They made several different kits to replicate multiple CSX-2XXX Daytona Coupes. I think all are unavailable now. There was some little details in the MFH kits not in either the HRM or GUnze-Sanyo kits. The MFH kits also cost about double the price of a HRM kit.  When I bought my HRM kit I had the option of several of the MFH kits and I decided on the HRM, both from a cost perspective and the complexity of building. 

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