Bill J
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Posts posted by Bill J
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Wow Girchy, that's pushing a year! I ordered the Daytona Coupe on a Monday and it arrived on Friday. I ordered from Red Frog Hobbies, which have always been timely from my experience with them. I had ordered a Mercedes 300SLR LeMans conversion kit by HRM from them and it took about 2 months to get, that was much quicker than I expected knowing how the HRM kits are usually backed up.
I have to say, the HRM products are something to behold, beautifully mastered and cast, none finer! That reminds me I need a few parts from HRM and I need to get them on order soon.
I also have an order with another dealer that is for some photoetch and machined items that is running past a year now and I need to inquire on the status and perhaps seek a refund.
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It's an Oscar Meyer Weinermobile that lost it's weiner
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That's as ugly in the front end as one of those newer Mazda's that look like a feeding whale shark...
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Nice pair Rex! Got to love the design of the Shelby Mustangs. I have to get one of the new Revell kits of the 69 Conv.
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I lost my instructions decades ago
I do recall test fitting the parts and they all worked ok. The hood on the 67 sticks out in front and meets the nose piece sort of oddly. The real car was that way too, although many of the original cars have been fitted with newer replacement parts that are made better. The original 67 had parts made by numerous LA mom & pop fiberglass shops and was prone to badly warping and overall poor fitment. The 68 fiberglass body parts were made at the same company that made Corvette fiberglass body parts and is much better quality. FWIW, the 67 was the last Shelby Mustang made by Shelby at his facility in LA.I once nearly bought a 67 that had some resto work done on it but I passed because the owner had the car painted before doing any restoration inside or underneath. I thought that was sort of backwards. It also had a seriously warped trunk lid, which should have been replaced before painting, to me anyway.
The price of $12,500 seemed to high to me. Who'd have guessed that the price of these old cars would be 10-15X more in 30 years.
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I don't think the conversion kit was for the 68 Shelby, I think it was for a 68 Mustang fastback kit, but truthfully, it has been so long since I got that kit, over 20 years ago, I forget what kit it fit on. I recall it fitting ok and needing a tiny bit of tweaking but not like you describe Raymond.
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I've kiinda learned the hard way over the years, when it comes to resin kits and parts and trans-kits, buy them if you can when you can because you never know how long they'll be available. I missed a few but managed to get some gems too.
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I got a birthday card and I sold some things and accumulated $5500 to pay off my dang Visa and buy one small, loud toy.
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I don't recall that one but they did make a 67 Shelby conversion for a fastback. Mini Exotics has been gone quite a few years now, unfortunately.
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I can't post pictures or paste anything on this editor. No idea why that is! Otherwise I was going to post a pic of the LMM Goldline kit.
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James, I have one of the Ferrari 250 GTO V-12 engine kits from HRM. Very nice kit. I got mine with a purchase from another modeler that was selling lots of stuff and I bought a Fujimi 250 GTO from him and he included the HRM engine kit. That's another kit I need to build, I think I have what I need for it.
You might want to take a look at Vintage Racing Motorsports for some super decals for road race cars. That's the decals that come in the Daytona Coupe kit and they are the best quality. The owner of VRM is a member on this board, great to deal with.
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James, I ordered the HRM Daytona Coupe kit from Red Frog Hobbies. For some reason, maybe my old version of Word, I can't post links. I also bought the HRM update kit for the Gunze kit from Red Frog last year, along with some other HRM parts. The HRM update kit for the Gunze kit has an engine block and tranny but not a complete engine. It also does not have any of the under hood items, like inner fenders, radiators and duct work for the radiators or firewall pieces. Basically, the kit replaces the rubber and white metal parts and provides a resin frame to take the place of the built it yourself frame in the Gunze kit. Definitely an improvement but it would be hard to get to the level of the HRM Daytona kit with just the update applied to a Gunze.
The HRM complete Daytona Coupe kit is for sure worth the money, very high quality and gives you everything needed to make a super nice coupe with engine, etc. Not a lot in the way of instructions but some color pics of a detailed buildup and some written guidance. Should be workable without much difficulty.
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Today I got one of the models that I have wanted to do since around 1965. The problem was there was no kit until Gunze-Sangyo did a curbside, which I own but have not built. Mainly because it is curbside and it is not an easy kit, especially for an engineless model. For the past several years I have wanted a Model Factory Hiro Cobra Daytona Coupe and I didn't give much of a look at the Historic Racing Miniatures resin kit, both pricey but the MFH is quite expensive. After seeing a few photos of the HRM kit on another thread here, I decided to take a better look. I found that the MFH had a lot of white metal parts, which to me translates into a bit of work to clean up and polish before painting. The MFH also has a higher level of what I consider invisible details that are also more effort to build correctly. The HRM is all resin and up to Harold's usual level of craftsmanship, beautifully mastered and cast. Plenty of detail and all resin, which makes building smoother. The windshield and windows are regular plastic or appear to be, much easier than vacuum formed pieces, a real plus. The only thing that must be scratch built is the air box that surrounds the Weber carburetors, not too difficult.
So, after deciding that the HRM was the best bet for me, I ordered one and had it in 4 days! Which I always expect the 6 month wait deal, and was pleasantly surprised that Red Frog Hobbies had the kit in stock and mailed it right out. I am going to use parts of the Gunze-Sangyo kit while building the HRM but should eventually end up with both built, one detailed and one curbside. I'm thinking the 64 and 65 LeMans cars, different colors of blue and different schemes, so each should look unique. I also bought, last year, the HRM update kit for the Gunze Daytona Coupe, which replaces the white metal parts and includes a resin frame, in the Gunze kit you are supposed to build the frame from tubing provided. So, the Gunze should go together easier.
All I need now is to clear the bench of projects I have been puttering with and I can start on the cool little Cobra coupes
That means several months from now I can get going! I still need some more detailing parts from R&B Motion to do this right. -
You forgot to include the coyote's that run through my neighborhood. At one Fry's market the coyote pack was taking grocery bags out of people's hands in the parking lot.
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I could see having them in the garage but a carport, definitely not a good place for plastic. If the sunlight touches any of the boxes, you'll have warping. Have you considered looking into a small climate controlled storage unit? They can be had as small as a little closet and the cost is not that high. Considering the value of the kits and how hard it would be to lose them to the heat and elements in general, you'll have to decide.
Personally, I would liquidate all my kits before I'd store them outside in Phoenix, H.E. double hockey sticks weather.
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I have used Novus 3 and 2 on a Scalefinishes just last week. I will say that there was something wrong with the paint out of the bottle, it did not cover well, it is still sticky after a week or more and it orange peeled horribly.
So, I tried to polish it out with the Novus and it worked, although some areas are unreachable and cannot be saved. The Novus 3 made the finish cloudy and the Novus 2 polished it up pretty good, except where it cannot reach. I have used the Novus 2 on other Scalefinishes paint and it worked great, polished and smoothed just fine.
This particular car is probably going into the stripper soon. I have another one which I am going to paint with Tamiya rattle cans because I have used everything from automotive lacquer to Testor's enamels and acrylics, all without success. The Scalefinishes normally works perfectly on everything failed on this particular car, which is on it 4th stripping. Jinxed!
But, the Novus works and it works ok on Scalefinishes paints. Just take care not to polish through on edges and such. It don't take much. I've had the best results with just the Novus 2 and skip the 3 and the 1 entirely.
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Don't forget Historic Racing Miniatures, the parts and kits that HRM produces are beautifully crafted, accurate and done so well they are amazing to see/own/build
All the others mentioned are super fine as well.
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Ok, I am convinced, I need the HRM Daytona Coupe kit
I sent off a email to check current availability. I also need to crank out my Gunze kit with HRM parts that I have been ignoring, as a motivator to do the full HRM kit!Thank you for clearing that up for me AFX, do you have $190 I can borrow? Oh wait, I have a Visa
EDIT: HRM Cobra Daytona Coupe on order! That's a commitment
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Vamach1, looking at the pic of the HRM kit that you posted, I do see the radiator ducting and the airbox for the webers. It may be the front inner fenders that are not there? Hmmm. I might be able to afford an HRM kit and I have never, ever been disappointed with anything HRM has made. Everything has been just beautifully executed. Your Aurora looks good, where did you get the Daytona decals? Thanks for the Cobra link.
Afx, I see what you mean about the nose, I do remember the 65 Daytona car was different and not as long as later versions. That pic makes it look quite short and the Arii is pretty long looking. Maybe I need to mod my Aurora/Revell into a Daytona car, it has a fairly short nose, it just needs a little bodywork here and there. Thanks for the pic, it is a good one, you seldom see pics of the GT's during that period.
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Alger1X, the nozzle sizes in that set are pretty small for painting. They are more suited to inks and light waterbased paints like used on t-shirts. As Crazyjim said, get a compressor with an air tank. Those always running compressors are very noisy and very distracting when you are trying to paint. It is also nearly impossible to regulate the air to the brush, even though it has a regulator on it.
TCP Global is a good vendor they deal with all sorts of automotive 1:1 paints and tools. Check their website, they may have a better setup for a model maker. Also check Coast Airbrush, they carry all the good stuff.
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vamach1, that's great collection of GT's you have there, very nicely done. I do have a Gunze Cobra Daytona and the HRM upgrade which replaces the rubber and build your own frame with some nice resin pieces. The HRM Daytona kit is very nice, as with all HRM products. However, it is lacking several parts that you have to figure out and construct on your own. The duct work for the webers and the ductwork for the radiator area are not in the HRM or Gunze kits. I'm pretty sure that the coupe in the picture you posted is a Model Factory Hiro Daytona Coupe. That one comes with everything, all the ducting is in photo etch. It is 33% more expensive than the HRM kit but to get everything it's likely what I would do, if I had that much to spend right now
afx. I don't think that the Arii kit is all that off on the body. The Ford GT's went through some evolution from their first version to their first win version and then on to their later versions. The nose mods look right for the 65 Daytona car, when Shelby first took over the project. Shelby changed the air outlets and the nose shape. Later the nose became longer and it was noticeable. Rear deck scoops changed some and the rear was widened as wider tires became available too. The Arii looks about right for the Daytona car, that was the way Shelby changed the outlets that surrounded the spare tire, at first and also added the little spoiler lip at the front of that outlet opening to eliminate a dead air spot that kept air from flowing through the radiator. The Shelby team also added some small front air dams that helped keep the nose down at speed. The Arii kit is the closest to that particular timeframe in the evolution of the Ford GT project that has been modeled so far. It is pretty rare to find any pics of the first Shelby run cars, so it's sort of a lost time period.
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As far as the MK IV goes, the best plastic kit was the MPC kit. It was far nicer than the IMC and the engine was more accurate. Best 427 high type valve covers ever in plastic also. I have first hand experience with the high style valve covers in 1:1. When Ford upped the cam lift to gain HP about late 64 or early 65, the adjustable, solid lifter rocker arms needed the extra high valve covers. The previous, rounder 427 valve cover would no longer fit the engine once the new cam was added. Trivia, sorry
LeMans Miniatures made 2 different GT-40 Mk I kits, one that was curbside and one with full detail, including and engine and all under the hood details. Photoetched disc brakes, machined and resin wheels and an accurate wide tire and rear body work. I have one of the full detail (Goldline) kits and have yet to start on it. Lots of parts and little instruction.
I am still waiting for a full detail plastic (affordable) kit of the Cobra Daytona Coupe, there are a few great road race cars that really need new kits, even though they are 50 year old race cars! Cars like the Daytona Coupe and Chaparrals were world class sports car racers and never done well in plastic kit form.
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I don't remember if I replied to this before or not. I have a 2012 Jeep Wrangler Unlimited, the 4-door Jeep. Always wanted a Jeep and since I am retired now, I figured I better buy one. 2 years and no problems, fun vehicle
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Ok Doug, I mistook what you were trying to do. Have you considered a fine chrome tape? I bought some awhile back from Amazon. I think I searched for chrome drafting tape.
Good luck, the door panels look great and if you have a system that works, good deal.
I do recall test fitting the parts and they all worked ok. The hood on the 67 sticks out in front and meets the nose piece sort of oddly. The real car was that way too, although many of the original cars have been fitted with newer replacement parts that are made better. The original 67 had parts made by numerous LA mom & pop fiberglass shops and was prone to badly warping and overall poor fitment. The 68 fiberglass body parts were made at the same company that made Corvette fiberglass body parts and is much better quality. FWIW, the 67 was the last Shelby Mustang made by Shelby at his facility in LA.
How much paint?
in Model Building Questions and Answers
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I normally get 2 bodies in 1/25-1/24 scale painted with one 2-oz bottle of Scalefinishes paint. I just painted a GT40 MKII with Guardsman Blue and it used less than a 1/4 of the bottle. Small body!
You'd likely be more than safe with 4 oz of Scalefinishes for the 1/12 GT-40.