Harry P.

Now somebody check my latest lyrics post and give me the dang answer! Or else I'll just stop posting lyrics,,,

Agreed that his voice, like Dylan, is an "acquired taste." As far as guitar... that's what he has Mike Campbell for! And as far as harmonica... sounds ok to me!

I'd add "Swingin" to my list too.

Details? How did you get that shape? Is it PE? Machined?

"Twenty years for nothing, well... that's nothing new. Besides, no one's interested in something you didn't do."

My top 10 TP songs. Not in any order, can't possibly do that. But my 10 favorites (not counting Traveling Wilbury stuff): American Girl Free Fallin' You Wreck Me Into the Great Wide Open Listen to Her Heart Louisiana Rain Yer So Bad Here Comers My Girl Shadow of a Doubt King's Highway Even the Losers Ok, that's 11...

TP, "The Last DJ." Not one of his better efforts, IMO...

Exactly. A wax has no abrasive in it. If the "Treatment" is truly a wax, it has no cutting power, but rather fills in fine scratches, not remove them.

I saw that neighborhood Tesla again today. But today was the first time I've seen it up close, and on a sunny day. It was right next to me at the light. Turns out it's not black at all, but a very dark, dark midnight blue. Beautiful car.

What did you use to make the fins on the oil cooler?

The lower door hinges go into pockets on the inside of the inner door panels. The instructions tell you to use a heated screwdriver to "squish" that locating pin down to lock the metal hinges in place, but of course I always have to march to the beat of a different drummer... so I used super glue to first glue the hinges in place, then 5-minute epoxy to fill that little pocket and literally bury the hinges in epoxy. Then when the outer door skins are glued to the inner panels, the outer skins will cover that little pocket and those hinges will never come loose.

I wouldn't use glue at all, I'd use either clear enamel or acrylic.

Now that's thinking outside the box!

I have a 1928 Mercedes currently taking up the dining room table...

I'll look again tomorrow and see if I can figure out why I did what.

Small is the new big!

You seem to have a pulley on the drive belt that's not connected to anything! Did you forget a power steering pump or something? And a "magic floating alternator" too!

This one is just for Cato... I painted the fender assembly today with a can of that "junk paint" from Hobby Lobby that I like so much (Odds 'n' Ends). And... no primer. Just took the fenders and blasted away with the black. I know that must sound like nails on a chalkboard to you! Or model building blasphemy! Oh, the humanity! It's in the dehydrator now, so no pix. (BTW... the fenders are so long they just barely fit into the dehydrator). But it came out beautifully. About as flawless a black finish as I've ever gotten... and I'm a lousy painter!

It's almost like magic how my avatar keeps changing...

Yeah, I like that better. I went with what I had on hand. I'm hoping the carpet will sort of visually "disappear" once the interior is done.

On to the body. First step is to open up the trunk lid by scribing it open, and then adding the inner "lip" or flange with thin strip styrene where the weatherstripping would be and the trunk lid seals against.

Got the seats painted... My "carpeting" might be a hair too big, scale-wise (it's fine model RR ballast). Or maybe it just seems that way because it's so obvious here without the interior being enclosed and the door panels and dash and steering wheel in place. I think once everything is in place and the floor is basically "in the shadows," it'll look passable. If I could do it over I might go with something a bit less "grainy," but oh well.

Ok... here's what I did (if I remember correctly... this was all done a long time ago)... First I scribed the roof side panels to remove them from the body sides, then assembled the roof into one solid unit so that upholstering it will be much easier: Then I extended the interior panels with sheet styrene, to create a raised lip that I can glue the roof to, and also to create a tongue-and groove joint (not finished in these photos yet) to allow me to glue the body side panels to the rear center panel: At this point I don't remember why I used several smaller pieces of sheet styrene instead of making a template and just using one large piece... but I must have had my reasons. Also, you can see that I changed up the way the cowl will attach... I added styrene flanges so that the cowl piece can be glued in place later, after the body sides are installed, instead of attaching by screws from underneath. Also... you can see that the interior panel is only partly there... as you know, it's that weird very brittle plastic that the brown parts of this kit are molded in that will break if you so much as look at it for too long... and the piece inevitably broke. No big deal, I'll just glue it all together in the end when I glue those interior panels to the outer body panels. Oh yeah... almost forgot to tell you that... I altered the Pocher mounting screw holes because my plan was to glue those interior pieces in place instead of screwing them in place. My plan: 1. Attach the floorboard to the chassis (already done) 2. Attach seats to floorboard. 3. Glue the broken interior body panels together, upholster the interior body panels, then glue onto the finished (painted) outer body panels. 4. Attach the rear fenders to the body panels and attach the body panels to the floorboards. 5. Glue the rear center body panel in place. 6. Glue the finished cowl/windshield/dashboard assembly into place, then add the steering wheel. 7. Glue the finished roof in place. That's the plan.

Remember, don't post any hints or answers here. PM me with year, make, and model. The answer: 2009-14 Ford Ka