Harry P.

The reason I made such a point of explaining that any calculator can figure scale, and no special "scale calculator" is needed, is that I have seen posts made here in the past (not in this thread) from guys who literally don't understand what "1/25 scale" means! They seem to think that there's some sort of arcane special formula that you need to know in order to convert full scale measurements to scaled down measurements or vice versa, and that a specialized "scale calculator" is needed. Of course, as I (and others) have explained, the concept of "scale" is basic grade school stuff. A 1/25 scale model is 25 times smaller than the real thing, or to say it the other way, the real thing is 25 times bigger than a 1/25 scale model. There's no mystery or special calculator needed.

Looks like you guys are on to me... final vote: 13 REAL, 27 MODEL. And MODEL it is! A 1/8 scale model, to be exact.

Who knew a Mustang could fly?

That looks absolutely like a real trailer. Excellent work!

Apparently I did misunderstand you.

And some things need to be changed...

Speaking of being left-handed... This didn't irk me today. It irked me when I was a kid in grade school and we had those chairs with the "desk" type of tray surface thingie attached to them. They were all for right-handed people. Try writing on a desk like that when you're left-handed. Where was the ACLU when I needed them?

Did they also carry left-handed nails? The left-handed hammer alone won't do you any good if you try to drive right-handed nails with it.

Exactly. I realize an employee at Home Depot can't know everything about everything. But they should know the store layout and what aisle to send a customer to–not say "Let me ask someone who knows." You're a store employee. YOU are supposed to know! BTW, G... they're right next to the left-handed screwdrivers. You're welcome...

A guy who loves to build funny cars might say Revell makes the best kits, a guy who likes to build foreign exotics might say Tamiya makes the best kits. In the end all you have is a bunch of opinions and no actual answer... because there is no answer.

Sheesh... a White Sox is nothing like a Cub! For starters, the White Sox have actually won a World Series within the past 100 years!

It varies. There's no way to say any one company makes the best kits. Individual model companies have made great kits and lousy ones. And it also depends on your definition of "best." Most accurate? Most detailed? Easiest to build? Most optional parts? And on and on. This question has no answer. However, if your question is who makes (or made) the worst kits, I think Palmer would be the choice of most.

Maybe something a little more like this... shorter front overhang, the angle of the grille opening more in concert with the angle of the rear panel. This is just a 10 minute hack job... if I took some real time I could do better, but this is the direction I'd go...

Speaking of Home Depot... I usually avoid that place like the plague because I find the employees to be clueless, but it was on my way home and I needed something. So I'm looking at the shelves where the stuff I wanted would be, when an employee walks up and asks if she can "help" me find something. So I figure ok, why not... and I tell her what I need. She says to me, let me ask someone if we have that. Um... as a store employee, isn't she supposed to know that without "asking someone?" So she asks another employee if they have what I want, and the second employee answers, "it would be here on these shelves." (where I was already looking in the first place before I was "helped"). Thank you for all that valuable "help."

Ahhhhhhh.... much better....

What's that? A meeting of the pea-green Mustang owner's club?

http://www.automobilemag.com/features/news/1312-1962-ford-mustang-i-concept-automodello-scale-model-review/

Just another "concept car" that really looks nothing like any production Mustang ever. So no reason for any "hoo ha" on that one.

All that craftsmanship can't hide all that ugliness.

Mass-produced model kits are manufactured by a process called "injection molding," in which liquid (molten) styrene plastic is injected under pressure into hollow molds. Once the plastic has cooled and hardened, the resulting parts are popped out of the molds. An injection molding machine is a big investment... the cost to manufacture an injection molded kit can run into the hundreds of thousands of dollars, not to mention the physical space needed for the machines. Resin is a completely different material than styrene. Resin kits (or parts) are made by the casting process... pouring liquid resin into molds. Once the resin sets, the parts can be removed from the mold. Resin casting doesn't require the huge injection molding machines or the huge upfront $$$ investment... that's why the aftermarket guys use resin instead of injection molded styrene. The molds for injection molded kits are cut from tool steel and can cost many thousands of $$$ for just one mold. In resin casting, generally a "master" of the desired part is made, than a rubber mold of that master is made to use to cast resin copies of the master. The quality of the master (and thus the quality of the resulting resin parts) can vary among aftermarket vendors from nearly perfect to junk. The resin casting process is relatively inexpensive and lends itself to small runs, so it's the perfect way for aftermarket guys to make parts. Injection molding is used for large runs–many thousands of models are made from one mold. Resin is more brittle than styrene, and regular "model glue" won't work on it (you need to use either CA glue or epoxy)... but other than that, as far as building a model, resin and styrene parts are pretty similar.

And we're happy to have you!

I like it. Nice work!

Since those photos were taken I added Agent 47 racing mirrors to replace the factory mirrors.