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Posts posted by ShawnS
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Hi guys.
This is one of the Ford Escort RS2000's that raced at Bathurst for the 1977 Hardie-Ferodo 1000. This one was driven by Ford Rally ace Bruce Hodgson and David Morrow. They started the race from grid position 52 (out of 60) but due to mechanical issues they didn't complete the required amount of laps and were excluded from the results.
This is the C1 Models transkit for Revell's Mk2 Escort. I added Scale Production wheels with my own tyres, a roll cage and a side exhaust. This is another one of several painting challenges that I set for myself last year. It took me quite some time to figure out the width and location of the stripes and after 47 kilometers of tape, many many weeks of painting and correcting my mistakes it was done. All of the paint is Tamiya and the decals are custom printed from my own artwork.
It's a great kit with a resin body and some really good 3D printed parts. It went together well but the bonnet was slightly too small for the body and it was also a bit too flat. It has great under bonnet bracing detail but since I wasn't going to have an open bonnet with engine detail I sacrificed that bracing to fix the fitment issues. There are some other issues, one of them is the fitment of the kit windows. Just like every other resin transkit body, the kit windows don't automatically fit the body so I had to cut the one piece kit window into 4 pieces and install them separately. Another issue is the 3d printed clear head lights and tail lights. As with most clear 3d printing, the parts came out with a foggy finish. I was able to sand and polish out the printer lines from the tail light lenses but that didn't fix the foggyness . The head light lenses were replaced with items from my spares box. Despite these issues I would gladly make another one.
Thanks for looking,
Cheers
ShawnS
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Thanks for the heads up on digidecals Mike. I only started using Hobbyist decals because they started as custom hobby decals here in Aus so if an Australian option pops up now I'll probably switch over. I have used Spotmodel decals with varying success in the past but the last sheet I got from them (2years ago) almost every logo curled up into a unrecoverable mess once the decal had left the paper. The Euro / Aus dollar conversion rate means Spotmodel decals are fairly expensive so they are a last resort.
This Sierra has Spotmodel decals on it.
I have also used some Decaldoc decals (not custom printed) on this BMW. It also has decals from Spotmodel as well as Patto's, Hobbyist, Easydecal and home printed logos.
Lasershark is another custom printer in Australia but his colours can be patchy and slightly pixelated but still usable and his costs are pretty reasonable too.
Cheers
ShawnS
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Thanks everyone. I appreciate the comments.
3 hours ago, Michael jones said:Came out great! who printed your decals? they look very nice.
Decals are printed by https://hobbyistdecals.com/. They are based in India and transact in US dollars. The decals are digital printed so they have clean colours and no pixelation. The only downside is the white is a bit too weak and colours bleed through one layer of white easily so if I have any white items on the sheet I make sure to add enough of them to do double layers on the model.
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Hi again,
Thanks everyone for looking and posting your comments on my BMW 2002 thread so here's another one from the 1975 Bathurst 1000 race for you. The car was driven by Max McGinley and Paul King , unfortunately they didn't cover enough laps to be classified as a finisher. I wish I could tell you the story behind this colourful car but our motorsport press don't ever seem to concern themselves with things that aren't V8 powered so their story has been lost to time.
The kit is Hasegawa's 3 door Civic that I converted to the 2 door version by relocating the rear number plate recess and rescribing the rear panel lines. Hasegawa did originally release a 2 door version but I was a couple of years too late so I had to modify a 3 door. I also made new wheels and tyres as well as front indicator/light units and side mirror. I also added a rollcage.
The decals are custom printed from my own artwork.
I set myself some paint masking challenges last year and this is one of them. It's painted with Tamiya TS-49 bright red and TS-47 chrome yellow. I originally painted it with SMS paints and after nailing the colour coats the SMS clear came out rubbish (probably my fault) so I had to strip it and re-do it and the next time was with the Tamiya paints but unfortunately the masking job wasn't all that good and it would have taken me longer to fix the paint than it would have if I stripped it and re-did it, so that's what I did. Third time was a charm and after some minor touch ups it was all good.
I enjoyed this little kit and I would recommend it to anyone.
Thanks for looking
Cheers
ShawnS
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21 hours ago, Belugawrx said:
Oh I like that Shawn..very precise detailing and finish.
I struggle with the black rubber bumper strips, how did you do yours ?
Cheers
Thanks every one.
Bruce I use AK crystal magic glue for my fiddly parts.
It dries fairly strong but parts can popped off without damage if a mistake is made and any dried residue can be picked off with a tooth pick or a long finger nail and wet residue is also easy to clean up. It dries in a few minutes so it gives you ample time to place your parts on the model and add tape to secure the parts like those rubber strips.
Cheers
ShawnS
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Hi guys,
This is the 2002tii that was driven in the 1975 Bathurst 1000 by Peter Williamson and John McDonald. They started 23rd but DNF'ed.
It's the late version Hasegawa kit with the USCP late model door cards. I designed and 3D printed the right hand drive dash as well as my own front seats. I also did my own wheels and tyres and had the decals custom printed from my own artwork.
I painted the fluorescent red stripes with paint from a can of Tamiya TS36 which by my estimation is either side of 30 years old. I decanted the paint and airbrushed it.
If you've ever wondered if it really is fluorescent, here's a pic I took with the lights out and the UV torch on. Just for something different.
Thanks for looking. I've had a busy last couple of months finishing various models so please look out for them in the near future.
Cheers
ShawnS
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You've done a supreme job Bruce. Well done.
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Hi Mike. It's not waterslide but adhesive.
https://www.bnamodelworld.com.au/model-cars-motorcycles-parts-decals-hasegawa-models-ha-71936
Just might suit your needs.
Cheers
ShawnS
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I've had some of these for a couple of months now and I can say that they are handy items to have. If you need a quick coat of something and don't want to bother with a brush then they are a go-to tool. They have decent coverage and can be re-coated without affecting the previous coat. They are all matt finish and the colour choices are more aimed at airplane and military modellers but I hope that AK can develop these a bit more and make some more colours that are less military oriented.
They aren't a magic bullet cure for anything but a very handy weapon in the arsenal.
Cheers
ShawnS
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Its not like full reflective chrome but depending on their own personal standards those builders who use plain silver paint for their chrome might be happy with the results.
These roll cages were painted with sparkling silver and the identical TS83 metallic silver spray can. Just like Alclad etc. they work best over a smooth coat of any dark colour. It doesn't dull with handling either and both LP48 and TS83 are more idiot proof than Alclad etc type of paints as you can get a quick and easy result.
Cheers
ShawnS
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Thanks Andy and Bruce.
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19 hours ago, W-409 said:
Great to see a race car with a cool history being built in scale. I had known about Dan Gurney's '61 Impala, but never knew about this one.
Excellent work with the body conversion and the whole rest of the build. Everything seems to be just right. Where are the hose clamps on radiator hoses fro
Thanks again everyone. I'm glad you like the little bit of history that I included as some context makes things a bit more interesting.
Niko, the clamps are from an old Crazy Modeler PE set of asst clamps that I've had for years. It's very nice soft metal that bends easily and stays there. Unfortunately there doesn't seem to be any more available anywhere that I have looked which is a bummer as I would like some more.
Cheers
ShawnS
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18 hours ago, Pierre Rivard said:
Buckle up tight, seatbelt is the only lateral support you'll get in this car.
Thanks guys.
Norm didn't seem to mind a bench seat as quite a few of his cars had them he even raced a '66 Nova with a front bench seat for a couple of years.
Cheers
ShawnS
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Hi guys,
Fresh off the bench after 13 years is this beast. It started out as AMT's '62 Impala convertible with a roof from an AMT '63 Impala. I made my own 3d printed interior and Carter AFB carbs and detailed the rest of the engine bay. The paint is a custom mix of SMS pearls to get my own approximation of Twilight Turquoise and the roof is Tamiya TS26. The bumpers, mirror and door handles are SMS Hyperchrome.
The Car.
Australian racing legend Norm Beechey needed a solution to the problem of beating the Jaguars that were starting to dominate Australian racing in the early 1960's. After reading about Dan Gurney shaking up the Jags in the UK with an Impala he decided to get one and see if it could do the same here. Gurney's Impala was a 2 door but as large capacity 2 door cars were banned under Australian touring car rules at the time Norm had to settle for a four door. Not a big issue as he was going to sell it after he was finished racing anyway. The car arrived and after some running in time it was found there were issues with the 409s bearings and after some correspondence with Mr Gurney a solution was found and the big car ht the track. It only raced 8 times over the course of a year and was expensive to race and maintain so Norm returned it to road car spec and moved on. Anyone who saw the car race back in the day (not me) still talk fondly of it and it has made itself at home in the foggy mythology that is the history of Australian Touring cars.
Norm ended up buying the car again and used in targa rally type events. I'm not sure if he still owns it but it pops up now and again at historic events.
It also has Model Car Garage PE inside and out and Modelhaus Tyres.
So very glad to have this one finished after way too many fights with it. Thanks for looking.
Cheers
ShawnS
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I'm in the southern suburbs of Adelaide and I have to squeeze in as much painting as I can in between constant days of 20-30 knot winds. 😔. I try to avoid the heat by painting in the mornings.
The (very big) book is worth the money with many pictures and detailed stories about the car and it's history and it also busts a lot of myths but doesn't have a huge amount of pictures that show smaller details that help me as a model builder.
Cheers
ShawnS
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Thanks guys.
I have that book Shayne and it was the catalyst for me pulling the trigger to start this project and although the book doesn't have the answer to every question it has certainly been very helpful.
I would love to give everyone an update on this but I have had to set it aside as it is painting season and the Mustang was taking a bit too much time away from other projects that could actually be finished this year. I will get back to it sooner or later.
Cheers
ShawnS
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Hi again.
I originally wanted to just lightly modify the original kit suspension but as usual with me I decided to go all the way so that is why I had to re-do the frame, and since I did the frame obviously I had to remake the entire front suspension. This style of suspension setup was used for decades over a variety of Fords world-wide range of cars but in the model kit world it has always been the victim of manufacturing compromises and therefore a little bit underdone. This is my chance to get it closer to spec.
To start with I needed something to hang the control arms on. I tried to incorporate these brackets and cross member onto the frame and print them as one piece but after a couple of test prints I found that they weren't printing as clean as I wanted so I decided to make them as separate parts.
Next was the control arms.
The next step was to mount the upper control arm and add a shock. The shock absorber sets the control arm in place and helps with setting the ride height. The spring isn't the final item, it's just for show.
The front brakes will be two piece items mounted to the spindle. The assembled items are just prototypes so don't worry about the print marks.
Obviously a steering box and tie rods were required.
Test fitted in place.
The front sway bar and radius rods are in progress.
Another update soon. Thanks for looking.
Cheers
ShawnS
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9 hours ago, Dave B said:
Shawn, since you are printing your own panels are you going to include the pie cut nose?
Dave B
No. After experimenting with a spare body I found that my attempts to get the drooped nose look ruined the lines and made it look like that 2019 Mustang Supercar. I have however developed a small tweak to the nose that helps get a bit of that mean nose look. That's for a future update.
Here are the Goody Blue Streaks with some Daisies.
As
As the rim of the wheel needs to be painted polished aluminium I made it separate.
Next update soon. Soooo much work to do.
Cheers
ShawnS
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Hi Guys.
I don't often do WIP threads but as I am trying to get a bit more motivated to get some momentum up and get these done.
The Man.
Allan Moffat is a Canadian who was a Ford Trans-Am and factory test driver in the US in the early-mid 1960's. He moved to Australia to try his luck on the local Touring car scene but was without a car. He wrote a letter to Ford special vehicles boss Jacque Passino looking to source a 2nd hand Trans-Am Mustang for racing in Australia. Allan was invited to a meeting with Mr Passino in Detroit and after a few days was sent to Bud Moore's workshop in South Carolina where much to Bud Moore's dismay he was gifted a brand new Bud Moore '69 Trans-Am Mustang for his racing activities in Australia. Moffat's reputation as a good race and development driver helped grease the wheels with the Ford bigwigs both in the US and in Aus to get him that gift of a lifetime.
The Machine.
I will be building 3 versions of this car. The 1969 debut, The early-mid 1970 version and the 1972 version from what is regarded as Australia's greatest touring car race (more on that later).
The first version is as it arrived from Bud Moore with changes that reflect the necessities of the Aust touring car rules.
The second version is early to mid 1970, The slightly enlarged wheel arch flares, Minilite wheels, rear wing and covered over headlights are the main points of difference. This have the only visible engine of the 3 models.
The 1972 version will have bigger flares with bigger ROH wheels, side scoops, a bigger front spoiler and will look a bit lower and meaner.
The Models.
I have wanted to build a model of this Mustang for years but the amount of work to change the road car kit into the race car was more than I could deal with. The kit is just fine but not accurate enough for me. Having a 3d printer and drawing my own parts for various models over the last 2 years has put me in the right mindset to get the details of this car a lot closer to spec. One of the many ways the kit falls short is the really dull engine bay. To do the engine bay right I had to remove the chassis rails and build up from there.
engine bay sides
The firewall
Radiator support panel
Export brace
All printed oaut and ready to install
I am well advanced with the first version but still along way off. There are still a few things that need developing and I am always re-drawing and printing items. I am not aiming to do THE most accurate or highly detailed model I just want to update the deficient details of the kit.
I am using an old tech 4k Photon Mono printer with E-sun bio resin. My drawing program is DesignSpark.
Thanks for looking. next update soon.
Cheers
ShawnS
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Hi guys just a quick one for you.
Fujimi kit, 3d printed wheels, tyres and tail light bodies. I modified the front valance to better represent a road car and I added a roll cage too. The paint is Tamiya and the decals are from custom hobby decals from my own artwork.
The car was driven by Tony Farrell and Brian Reed to a brilliant 6th place (1st in class C) at the 1974 Bathurst 1000 after starting in the 24th grid place.
Thanks for looking,
Cheers
ShawnS
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On 5/17/2024 at 2:31 PM, Cool Hand said:
Crikey! If those are the same size boxes as the other kits, 7 DDA boxes are gonna take up a LOT of real estate.
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1 hour ago, Yeah Nah said:
Brilliant job all round Shawn; especially paint and decals. Super accurate repros on the graphics.
Thank you Gary.
I spend a LOT of time on the drawing of the graphics. I'm a terrible font Nazi so I set high standards for myself when I do the graphics. (incoming rant)I just wish that the guys who do the graphics for the touring car restorations here in Aus had the same attitude as there are some brilliant restorations with some very lazily done graphics. (rant over)
Thanks everybody I'm glad you all like it.
CheersSS
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11 hours ago, espo said:
When I first looked at the body of your build, I kept trying to think of any company that had offered a Galaxie sedan kit. The body lines and chrome trim all look in proportion and correct. The interior is done in the same fashion and looks very realistically done. Then with the information on the original car that in its self-interesting as well.
Thanks, The trim on the body is exactly as AMT made it as the body didn't need any mods other than to scribe the door lines. When I decided to take on the project I did some research on the wheelbase measurements and I realised that I didn't need to make the body longer I just needed to make the front doors shorter and throw a roof on it.
Thanks everyone.
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Ford Escort RS2000 Bathurst 1977
in Other Racing: Road Racing, Salt Flat Racers
Posted
Thanks everyone.