David Thibodeau

Thanks guys... I was hoping the subject (even though its not your cup of tea Izzy) would get this section sparked up. I really would like there to be more of an interest in Nascar on this board. Seems lately there is alot of bickering and opinionated subjects overrunning the real purpose of this board. MODEL CARS! Dave T

The body is where I stopped for almost a year and now I decided to jump back on this project and get the chassis done. The chassis pan and greenhouse area were used from the ford kit since its pretty accurate even for this newer version of the truck. However everything in the front of the firewall was not used and was scratchbuilt with .080, .060, and .030 plastic tubing using reference sources. Rear cell was built up usinf square tubing and .060 tubing. I moved through the chassis conversion in about 2 evenings and then it was primed, based in grey and dupont clear. I will set this aside for a week or so and get other projects out of the way. But please stay tuned for updated for those interested. Supertrucks are way cool to me and a nice change of pace!!

Into the paint booth the truck went. I painted the body with a mixture of HOK Stratto blue with some orion silver added to lighten it up. I think it is a breathtaking color and represents the color of the 1:1 truck well. The body recieved one coat of dupont clear and it was set aside to dry. The decals are being made by Thad Brooks out of Georgia on his alps. Once I apply the decals I will reclear the body but this is it for now!!

Dave Reutimann is a local guy in my Area down here in Florida. Atleast he was till he got his first big ride in THe DWR ( Darrell Waltrip Racing) Toyota Tundra in 2004 I believe. Ever since I saw the truck run at Daytona I have wanted to build that Truck in high detail. I started this project almost a year ago but decided to post it now. I have gotten the itch to get back on it. Here is a pick of Dave "Truckin" at Daytona.:iceslolan No one makes a Toyota Tundra body so I have to make one! Or atleast close to one. I started with a Revell monogram kit of the 1998 FOrd F-150. The front end resembled that of a Toyota or atleast a good base to start with. Quickly I got to work getting the rough draft going with .015 and .020 styrene and the lip of the kit hood to get t he basic shape I needed. I also split the bumper down the middle and took the lower half and shaped it to fit like an "underbite" that the newer trucks have. Then I added a COT style lower lip spoiler. To get the hard edged flare on the fenders I made the shapes from Thin sheet aluminum and glued them in place. The reason I used metal was so I could sand on the area after blending with putty and still maintain that hard line since the plastic sands away easier and the metal remains durable. After much sanding I added the first wave of primer. This happeded a few times and I wont bore you with the adjustments. It has the Tundra look and that was what I was after. Since its a SS Truck that ran at daytona I can get away with the shorter nose look it has. IF I wanted to replicate a Downforce body I would have had to buy a diecast and have it casted but that would be cheating right? :nono: Here is the contoured look vert present on the Tundra. The metal worked out well in my opinion. The rear bumper had to be made longer. This was achieved with square rectangle rod and blended in. Finally the usual superdetail chores were completed. Roof flap was cut out and sealed in, Hood bracing added to the underside and it was hinged. Then the rear tonneau cover was remade from sheet aluminum and angled to make a hinge. Tether plates were made and the fuel filler was drilled out. Its ready for paint!!! FInally I made a new rear spoiler like the Daytona style one out of sheet aluminum.

www.hiroboy.com Thanks guys..... DaveT

I am building this for a nice guy in New York named John Snider. He goes by "Hillbilly deluxe" on the board.He won this kit, and the fork set from a a local hobbyshopRaffle I think. I convinced him to purchase the Zero paint to make it accurate. For the most part it will be built out of the box with detail painting and the fork set. Here is a picture below of what I started with. I always like to start with the cowlings first. Here is a trick I use to get rid of those seams when you put the parts together that have them. In this case its the tank. I use Ambroid pro weld liquid plastic cement or in this case plastistruct cement. Glue the tank halves together and "Squeeze" until the plastic oozes.. that way you let it dry and sand off the seam flush and smooth. This is cleaner, easier, and smoother than putty. You also eliminate the possibility of shrinkage! Here are all the cowlings were primed with duplicolor white primer and painted with Zero Kawi green through the airbrush... this color is perfect and suits the bike nicely. I cannot tell you how nice this paint shoots through my airbrush! Each panel also recieved one coat of dupont clear. Once the clear had cured I decaled all the panels and used alot of microsole decal solvent to snug them down. Once they cured overnight, I cleaned off the residue and recleared all pieces with dupont clear. Here is my favorite part. The rear seat cowl belly.... I love that NINJA logo!! Tamiya instructs you to paint the front fender TS-29 and then add the center decal. I opted to cover it in SMS Hi-def CF decal. Then add the green decal and clear... Finally, I assembled and primed the frame and rear swingarm. The paint I used is the black that comes with the Kawasaki Green kit. It laid down nicely and smooth and gave the frame a semi gloss poweder coated look. More to come soon!!

Excellent work my friend.... one of the best highly detailed C6-R builds I have seen!!!! Dave T

Decals by Thad Brooks which are doubled on the Bunny and the white decals. Neon is SEMS Chartreuse and black basecoat with Dupont Clear. Basic stock build for a client. :grinyes: Thanks for looking.

Thanks guys...... DaveT

Thanks guys... glad some of you like it.... DaveT

Wetworks decals with Krylon fusion Patriot Blue and Sunbeam yellow followed by 2 part dupont clear...........

Absolutely. Dont let the Fusion for plastic fool you. This stuff will craze like regular old krylon without a barrier coat. I shot the body in grey primer. SMoothed it out and shot white over that. Then I laid down the sunbeam yellow. Let it dry about an hour taped it and shot the blue. Then I cleared it about 30 minutes later... DaveT

Decals were sent to me atleast a year ago and I have a client that loves the paint scheme so I decided to dive in. It will be a standard clean shelf build which is my mode right now..... The decals were drawn and printed by Thad Brooks and they are in need of a second set for the white areas which Thad is doing for me. Paint is a neon yellow by Sems called Chartruse I believe? Anyways here it is all painted decaled and cleared. I will apply the extra white decals when they arrive and coat them with Microgloss for protection. I cant reclear this thing anymore!! :grinno:

Decals were sent to me atleast a year ago and I have a client that loves the paint scheme so I decided to dive in. It will be a standard clean shelf build which is my mode right now..... The decals were drawn and printed by Thad Brooks and they are in need of a second set for the white areas which Thad is doing for me. Paint is a neon yellow by Sems called Chartruse I believe? Anyways here it is all painted decaled and cleared. I will apply the extra white decals when they arrive and coat them with Microgloss for protection. I cant reclear this thing anymore!! :grinno:

He was comfortable in Wrangler! Dale's 1987 Wrangler ride. Krylon Fusion Patriot blue and Sunbeam Yellow are a dead match for the Wetworks sheet from BSR as you can see! CLear is 2 part dupont. Another CLient build quick and clean.....

He was comfortable in Wrangler! Dale's 1987 Wrangler ride. Krylon Fusion Patriot blue and Sunbeam Yellow are a dead match for the Wetworks sheet from BSR as you can see! CLear is 2 part dupont. Another CLient build quick and clean.....

Superb looking car Tom!!! I have to say its the first COT car I have seen finished and I bet the nicest!!! Great Job! DaveT

Completion of a 2 year old build.... One MR LUISI thought I would never finish... Never say never my friend!! Straight forward build with JWTBM decals and a "Tally Taxi Cab" package installed on the roof and rear spoiler.....

Dave, The decals were phenominal for alps... sharply printed and really fit the car perfectly..... sad you closed shop but understandable at the same time.... .I am glad I got a sheet before they were unavailable! Thanks all...... more to come... DaveT

Thanks guys for looking as always.... more of these clean builds to come! DaveT

Another offering from Model king and Powerslide decals. Both can be obtained from Mike's Decals website. Built Curbside due to the generic chassis. PPG black, white and dupont clear. Stance was modified to get it low....Thanks for looking!! DaveT

Looks awesome Scott!!!! DaveT

Thanks guys, I am glad you all like it!!!! DaveT

Built stock for a client in Virginia and a tribute to BP. May he RIP..... Ride height adjusted for a good lowering. PPG white and Dupont clear. Decals are alps made from DSAO.... Thanks for looking, Dave T

That is thin wire wrapped around a tube and covered in Bare metal foil.... Billy, its one decal but it ALOT of decal solvent to tame it down........ Thanks again, More updates as the Charger build progresses... I looked at photos of Rusty's 2005 Martinsville car and tried to replicate it as close as possible. He ran outer grill plates on the lower center nostrils and sunken in mesh on the uppers and of course brake duct grills to cool the brakes.... Here is what I can up with using model car garage PE grills and Pro tech bolts. Next up was tackling the dash mounted ignition system. Pro tech resin MSD boxes and scratchbuilt coils make up the plate. Followed by careful painting and wire details from Pro Tech. I purposely cut out the rectangle panel in the dash so the wires would show through coming from the ignition panel. Then I covered it with Acetate and bolts. I have a pic of Rusty's 1:1 dash and it is set up this way. Here is the dash in the car I assume Rusty ran a Koolbox IV from Computech in the car somewhere. Most mount it behind the seat but I want it to be seen well.... It is made from Block styrene and Cig foil with craft wire for detail and a PE mesh grill. Of course a Koolbox IV decal from a JWTBM Goodie sheet finishes it off... Like I mentioned above, I wanted it to be visible so I installed it on the pass floor so it can be seen through a peek of the pass window. Here is a peek through the pass window! Thanks for looking as always DaveT