Fat Brian
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Posts posted by Fat Brian
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What bothers me most is how AI speaks so authoritatively about things it can't possibly have any knowledge of, though that is probably its most human quality.
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The guys at Grind Hard Plunmbing Co did buy a very similar 4x4 Camaro recently.
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Bare metal foil is a great skill to have in general but I would practice on a scrap body just to minimize the chance of messing up the paint on an expensive and fragile 3d print.
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This is the same issue that caused me to strip a body 4 times. What I found is needing to work in very light coats and double up on the tape or switch to an automotive grade tape. I find it very odd that Tamiya tape doesn't protect against Tamiya paint.
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Yes, I keep many pics. Some are for inspiration and others are reference pics of parts or assemblies I need to find or build.
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47 minutes ago, JerseeJerry55 said:
Brian hi. I usually paint 10-12 inches from the part(s). I also believe although I painted in a shady area on the side of my house the outside temperature was too hot (95 degrees). So that I believe is my downfall. That being said since I am not in the mood to strip, and repaint the cab of a $50.00+ kit I may just wait a few weeks and lightly sand it down, reprime it, and then repaint it when the outside temps will cooperate. And while I am at that I may just change my username to My Own Worst Enemy. Just a random thought.
I have to paint outside too. When the humidity is high you can get something called blushing where the surface of the paint turns flat in reaction to the moisture in the air. High temps can also cause the paint to go on drier at a given distance from the body since the heat causes more of the carrier liquid to evaporate through the air. I've got to where I prime everything with Duplicolor white primer because its easy to strip no matter what I put over it.
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6 minutes ago, JerseeJerry55 said:
Thanks Brian. So in essence if I want it more glossy like an O/O truck I needed to do lighter coats, then the final heavier coat. However what I have shown would be more geared towards a weathered company unit such as lets say the Alaskan Hauler KW500? Or am I off base?
Personally, I think the paint is too textured like that to look accurate. I try to get it at least smooth even if I'm going to hit it with a matte clear at the end.
I'm going to put "heavy" in quotation marks, work it up one pass at a time until it looks glossy and wet. There is a very fine line between perfect and getting runs. You will have to dial in the distance away you hold the can, too close and you gets runs, too far and you can't get rid of that pebbly texture.
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The Revell Daytona should have about everything you need to get started. The race options aren't correct but can be improved. The Hemi engine is correct but you will need the NASCAR single four barrel intake. Other bits can be sourced from the Polar Lights or Salvinos Dodge stock car kits.
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To me everything you showed looks like it was applied a little too dry. Auto body and airbrush painters talk about the "wet edge", where the paint has enough liquid in it to flow out smooth but not enough to run. After you make a pass with the spray gun the center will be shiny but above and below will be flatter. Working from a spray can is a little different but the principle is the same. Paint will never be glossier than when you apply it, if it looks flat or rough it will dry flat or rough. I think if you got to about 75% coverage with thin coats and let that flash off for a few minutes then finished with a wetter coat that was very smooth you would probably be set.
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"We didn't choose to put two blowers on a Hemi because it was easy, but because it was hard."
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20 hours ago, peteski said:
I'm glad to know I'm not alone in my preference of the original style nose. But since the pseudo-fastback body style was brought up, to me that also ruined the Fiero's look even more. Yes, from the plan view it looks pretty slick, but once you realize that those windows are fake and there is no rear window, that really spoils it for me.
Yet, I like the '70s Corvettes with the "flying buttresses". Those were well done.
Recent issue of Collectible Automobile had a good size article about the Fiero. As with most articles in that magazine it was an interesting read.
I agree the "windows to nowhere" are a little odd. I wonder what one would look like with the notch style side panel but the extended sail panel? This would probably create a massive blind spot though.
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I prefer this nose with the kind of fast back body but the early nose on the notch back body.
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2 hours ago, Dave Van said:
The store off US 74 near the river??? I was there last month while in the area. I lived in Charlotte during DoT filming and another NASCAR film, Stroker Ace!! Stroker has a model car connection. The Monogram 83 Thunderbird is a model of the Stroker car and NOT a Cup car. The Cup car was not finalized yet so they had to use the Stroker car. More than anyone wanted to know.
The store is in downtown Lowell just off exit 22 on I-85. The school is in Cramerton off 8th Ave, and the car chase was filmed on Hwy 16 just after it crosses the river into Gaston county. They've changed the layout of the road so you can't drive on most of what was filmed now.
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That's one of my favorite movies and parts of it were filmed in my area. The school and gas station when Ricky was a kid and the road where the car chase happened are all within 10 or 15 minutes of my house.
I think Bob was right in that the NASCAR fun police would have had issues with some of the on track antics.
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1 hour ago, DJMar said:
That's a really, really good observation, and might be why the body feels off. The MPC kit definitely has a pronounced curve from the beltline to rocker, which is prototypical.
Totally off topic, but is that a vintage 1980 Monogram Turbo T/A kit in your stash, unbuilt?
Yeah, I just picked it up from ebay a few months ago. It took a little bit of waiting but I got it for a good price. I like that body-style of Firebird but the AMT/MPC kit is tragic. This kit has the good Pontiac engine Iike the 70 T/A and not the 78 Firebird kit.
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I'll throw my hat in the ring here. I pulled out the MPC snap Blazer to compare in to. I lined up the lines at the back of the door and the wheel wells look dead on. What interests me though is how much more the MPC body curves under at the rocker panels under the doors. I've owned two square bodies in my life and when I saw the Revell body in person it looked a little slab sided to me and this has been an issue with other modern Revell kits like the first gen Bronco. From anyone who has access to a real one currently it would be interesting to know what the measurement between the rockers is.
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I could give a few of those a loving home.
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Looks familiar but the desk is too clean.
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1 hour ago, mikos said:
I’d hate to lose the ‘68/‘69, but I’d love to see a ‘70 based on this tool. Or, maybe just do a new body with the same chassis and interior bucket. Of course, a new dash and seats would have to be done as well. However, I think the ‘70 would be worth it and sell quite well.
I agree that the 70 would have been the superior choice but I don't think this era of kits is going to get significant updates any time soon. They've said that these kits fit so tight that they require a high degree of precision which gets expensive. These kits don't have CAD files so first they have to make an accurate CAD file as the kit exists now and then develop the changes. This is why the new Demon kit isn't based on the Duster which seemed like a logical choice. It was easier to start from scratch than reverse engineer a body to fit the Duster.
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The S in ABS is styrene so it should be similar to model plastic. Since the rear of the body is enclosed you could shoot anything you want to use on the inside first to see if there is any unplanned reaction.
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While I do enjoy the schadenfreude of the creator of this deathtrap getting to experience the results of his reckless disregard for basic safety and sound engineering I do hope the families of the passengers find a way to sue the company out of existence. Unfortunately, this probably falls into some legal loopholes where it will be difficult to make that happen. This is such and edge case the laws that would have prevented it haven't been written yet.
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I would to see his products back too, there are several things I wished bought when they were avaliable.
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If you want 1/25 but it doesn't have to be this specific year look at the AMT 51 Bel Air kit. The 51 has the earlier split windshield but is a better kit overall than the Revell.
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1 hour ago, Radretireddad said:
Just to be sure I’m understanding you, the tires in the lifted kit are too small for that kit but I’m suggesting they’re a great upgrade for the stock plow truck kit.
If you want to put larger tires on the lifted kit, you only need to find some that fit over the kits chrome wheels. The ones I used on my lifted kit are an old set from American Satco which is no longer in business. Mr Mopar has kindly offered some alternatives from other off the shelf kits. Your only other source is going to be 3D printed.
What I’m offering is to show how I widened the steel wheels on the stock plow truck and fitted the tires from the lifted kit.
Is that what you want to see?
Right, the tires would be a good upgrade for a different kit but are too small for the kit they come in.
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Now, this is scary...
in General Automotive Talk (Trucks and Cars)
Posted
Yes, this is the problem with the current crop of "AI" word calculators, they have no frame of reference for what is factual. They just regurgitate words frequently seen together without knowing their actual meaning. There's no actual intelligence to the "intelligence".