Fat Brian

I just bought a sealed California Sunshine kit a couple months ago, I'm very glad I didn't over pay now.

I would try to strip it first and see if the plastic got etched or if it was just a paint reaction. If you can get it to strip then you can better decide if you can save it or not.

The rear tires were used as fronts in the Big Al Thunderbird drag car with different wheels.

I put together a kit for my wife's cousin to build with. I used the Revell kits, a stock 69 and the Dick Landy 68. You need the body from the 68 for the smooth top and the 69 tail light panel and lenses along with the grille. Most everything else comes from the 69 kit but I did add the roll bar and back seat delete bar from the Landy kit if you want a racier build. The good thing about this mix and match is that there is a complete 68 vinyl top car left over.

I think part of it is that for a long time turbos were looked at as "diesel stuff" and due to the horrible attempts at passenger car diesels in the 70s and 80s there was bias against them. They also didn't have the immediate visual impact of a huge roots blower sticking through the hood.

If anything I would cut a small piece of plastic where the lens is to fill the deepest spot so it won't be just a big fill of putty.

Yes, this is the problem with the current crop of "AI" word calculators, they have no frame of reference for what is factual. They just regurgitate words frequently seen together without knowing their actual meaning. There's no actual intelligence to the "intelligence".

What bothers me most is how AI speaks so authoritatively about things it can't possibly have any knowledge of, though that is probably its most human quality.

The guys at Grind Hard Plunmbing Co did buy a very similar 4x4 Camaro recently.

Bare metal foil is a great skill to have in general but I would practice on a scrap body just to minimize the chance of messing up the paint on an expensive and fragile 3d print.

This is the same issue that caused me to strip a body 4 times. What I found is needing to work in very light coats and double up on the tape or switch to an automotive grade tape. I find it very odd that Tamiya tape doesn't protect against Tamiya paint.

Yes, I keep many pics. Some are for inspiration and others are reference pics of parts or assemblies I need to find or build.

I have to paint outside too. When the humidity is high you can get something called blushing where the surface of the paint turns flat in reaction to the moisture in the air. High temps can also cause the paint to go on drier at a given distance from the body since the heat causes more of the carrier liquid to evaporate through the air. I've got to where I prime everything with Duplicolor white primer because its easy to strip no matter what I put over it.

Personally, I think the paint is too textured like that to look accurate. I try to get it at least smooth even if I'm going to hit it with a matte clear at the end. I'm going to put "heavy" in quotation marks, work it up one pass at a time until it looks glossy and wet. There is a very fine line between perfect and getting runs. You will have to dial in the distance away you hold the can, too close and you gets runs, too far and you can't get rid of that pebbly texture.

The Revell Daytona should have about everything you need to get started. The race options aren't correct but can be improved. The Hemi engine is correct but you will need the NASCAR single four barrel intake. Other bits can be sourced from the Polar Lights or Salvinos Dodge stock car kits.