Search the Community

Welcome to the Peking to Paris Model Car Rally Community Build. It will begin November 1, 2018 and conclude on July 7th, 2019, which is the last day of the actual rally. Unlike the Cannonball CBP’s there will be no poll, no winner, no losers. This is a race of gentlemen. We will use the same build rules that the actual racers use. I have outlined them below. Please read the rules in their entirety before you post your build as rules change depending on the choice of car. This is a smart man’s race. The person that plans well and drives well, wins. Torque will win over horsepower. Gas mileage will be a concern. Weight, the ability to handle rough roads, water, weather, mud will all be factors. It’s hard to imagine a race were a ’40 Ford with a flattie beats a ’70 Hemi Cuda, but this is the one, I assure you. Only cars of a model type in production prior to 1975 will be eligible. The Organizers may accept cars manufactured after 1975 provided they are a series evolution of the pre-1975 model and do not feature any performance advantage over the original model. Basically said- if a '76 is mechanically the same as a '75, it is good to go. They must be of a type designed to carry passengers with either a saloon or sports bodywork. Estate cars (station wagons) are not acceptable. Commercial or military vehicles such as light trucks, vans, ambulances, pick-ups and utility 4x4 vehicles are not eligible. Cars not capable of sustaining a constant speed of at least 80 kph (50 mph) on a level surface will not be eligible to enter. Entries will be accepted in the following Categories: the Vintageant Category - Cars of a model type in production from 1920 to 1941 the Classic Category - Cars of a model type in production prior to 1975 The following modifications to the cars are NOT permitted: - No conversion of live axle to independent suspension. - No coil springs replacing leaf springs. - No shock absorbers with separate reservoirs. - No changing of the engine make or configuration. Configuration means the engine must be set up just the way it could have been in 19XX but not necessarily stock. If aftermarket speed equipment A and B was available then, it should be good to go. Basically you are restricted to the technology of the year of the car you are driving. - No fuel injection, unless available as original equipment (a standard-showroom production item of the model entered). - No limited slip or torque biasing differential, unless available as original equipment. - No disc brakes on cars in the Vintageant Category. - No engine management systems or crank sensors. - No conversion to rack and pinion or power steering. With this in mind, a small steering wheel might look grand, but in practice would be detrimental to handling. - No body panels of alternative composite materials. No fiberglass or carbon fiber. -No wheel design (or material) that was unavailable when the car was in production. Roof racks are permitted provided they meet the following specification: - They must be of a design available at the time the car was in production - They must be made of metal - They must be no longer or wider than the roof panel - They must have sides no higher than 45 cm (18 inches) - the roof rack and spare wheels must not be covered Trunk racks - must appear period correct. All other modifications are permitted. Note: Not all cars were built to take the punishment this rally can dish out. So think about ways to strengthen the vehicle within the rules and without adding a ton of weight. Spliting wishbones, adding shocks, adding an x-frame if your chassis doesn't come with one, add a panhard bar, add gussets where appropriate, etc, etc. Spares There will no limit to the quantity or the range of spares that can be carried in the car but trailers are not permitted. Safety Equipment - Seat Belts: It is strongly recommended that all cars in the Vintageant Category have seat belts fitted and used at all times. Cars in the Classic Category must have full harness seat belts fitted and these must be used at all times. - Rollover Bars: It is strongly recommended that all cars have a roll bar fitted. the minimum requirement being a single hoop and two back stays. - Fire and liquid proof bulkheads separating the passenger compartment from the engine and fuel tank are strongly recommended. - A fire extinguisher of at least 1.75 liters must be securely fitted and within easy reach within the car. - All cars must have mud flaps fitted to all four wheel arches. - All cars must be fitted with a laminated windscreen or aero-screens Two metal rally plates must be fixed to the front and rear of the car in a clearly visible position, but not obscuring the car license plates. The rally plates are the image above. If we have a good decal printer among us, perhaps they would volunteer to do some decals for us. If not, I recommend printing them on good photo paper rather than a decal. In addition, racing numbers on the doors, for each side of the car must be visible. Numbers are first come first served. So when you announce your build, announce whatever number you want. 1 to 99 please. If you use decals like I do, remember a 43 decal can be a 34, a 3 or a 4. A 6 can be a 9. Be creative so that you don’t replicate someone else’s number. I realize that the actual 1:1 cars have magnetic numbers issued. A number in a light or dark circle depending on body color. If you have the ability to do generate a decal of that, rock on. If not, throwing the Intimidators number 3 on there is permissible. Other Items as outlined in section 9.2 of the P2P Regs, such as tents, sleeping bags, first aid kit, spare tires, tow ropes are not required because they could simply be in a closed trunk, but adding them to the build in some way (backseat?) would be very cool. Some useful links. http://www.endurorally.com/ http://peking2paris2013.com/car/ this will show you a lot of modifications that can be done and still be within the rules. Lastly, a Peking to Paris racer Google image search is highly recommended. This will show you what has been raced in the past. There is a team of guys that drive '37 - '39 Chevys and do well every year. As we get into June, I'm going to try to find media from the actual rally and incorporate it into this thread to get us re-motivated to finishing the models. There will be plenty of questions from prospective builders. Let'em fly, I'll answer as best I can. P2P 2016 Regs FINAL.pdf CAR Preparation Guide.Peking to Paris 2019.pdf

So day one started by picking up the Nova, and as you can see she is ugly. But on the good side she was in an inside garage for a while so all the floor boards, trunk, and rails all in good shape. Plus, the seller gave us boxes and boxes of parts (old and new) to go along with dream he had of someday rebuilding the car (inc. the original 350 engine & 4spd trans). Now she sure shows allot of surface rust from previous sanding, but actually the car has minimal rot. Tomorrow the complete tear-down begins (or shall I say the box gets opened LOL).