Jump to content
Model Cars Magazine Forum

Recommended Posts

Posted

Seating the top in a bed of 2 part epoxy putty. Great adheasion, moldable, holds it's shape well.

It's fitting well, windshield height is even on both sides.

IMG_20200712_094852.thumb.jpg.da255b4fbf9c90faf26a205d5241d577.jpgme

IMG_20200712_094836.jpg

Posted

Trim down the short piece of A pillar to fit. Has to lay to this angle to match the front line of the cowl side.

 

IMG_20200712_102315.jpg

Posted

As I think about this, I order my thinking so that my thoughts and decisions are as tho I'm building 1 : 1.

original concept for it was Euro coupe, if you will, 4 wheel independent with F1 inspired suspension with tube links. Lots of photo on first few pages of thread.

but I don't know, the way it's starting to look to my eye...stuck the axle I bent in the other roadster thread under it to see how it looks.

 

Posted (edited)

Everythings roughed in at this point. Spritzed a coat of black for guide coat. When I sand on it with a hard block, the black will sand off of the high spots leaving color in the low areas as the block bridges across them. Keep working the highs untill they are worked down to the level of the lows, producing a straight panel.

The A pillar still needs final profile, as well as finalizing the shape and radius of the upper portion of the windshield opening.

 

IMG_20200716_173144.jpg

IMG_20200716_173159.jpg

Edited by Ognib
Posted

What the panel looks like at the beginning g of a coarse 40 grit block. Can see how the hard block bridges the low areas. Initital rough in was done with a small hand held belt sander.

Second pic shows the other side after a second bockout with 80 grit.

Have a nice transpearant bronze metallic I'm playing with here as well.

 

IMG_20200718_140600_4CS.jpg

IMG_20200718_140825.jpg

Posted

That's a pretty good hot rod look, to my eye.  Has the vibe I'm looking for.

Been looking for some quarter by half in rectangular steel tubing. Nobody around here carries anyting that small.

Ive got seeing it as a eurocoupe in my head from the beginiñg.  Want to build a more traditional perrimiter frame with it. The full tube approach isnt right for it.

A hot rod musclecoupe, if you will. 70s 80s street wars. The John milner type ride. Strictly business!

 

IMG_20200723_141820.jpg

IMG_20200723_141836.jpg

Posted

The red on the cowl is the same mix as the red on the side shot, above. It is transparent enough that the base color it's sprayed over influences its final appearance.

I'm close on the shape I want on the driver's side of windshield opening. Still too rounded on other end.

I just stroke it a bit and then set it down and look at it for a while. Make sure I'm getting what I want visually.

IMG_20200723_145715.thumb.jpg.fa5743552061cd4c199b075861a740c3.jpg

IMG_20200723_145648.jpg

IMG_20200723_145658.jpg

Posted

The guidecoat let's you draw lines to see how corners and radius panels are intersecting. Shows where every scratch and variation of contour are located.

 

IMG_20200725_095954.jpg

IMG_20200725_100152_2CS.jpg

Posted

Using the same radius in all the window corners for continuity of design. 

As the work has progressed, I've been building materiel thickness in areas so that there will be door jams in the body when the doors are cut out. Shaping these areas as well for good inner door detail.

 

IMG_20200731_123123.jpg

IMG_20200731_122704.jpg

IMG_20200731_122625_6CS.jpg

Posted

My current inclination in the process of changing the car to more of a traditional style by using a solid axle vs independant and going to a old school style frame is to mount the axle in front in front of the grill shell. 

Thiswill extend the wheelbase a bit and could be hung on a suicide style crossmember if I decided to go that way.

 

IMG_20200804_144601.jpg

IMG_20200804_144623.jpg

Posted

I have 2 main problems with the way the car looks from the side at this point...

The radius where the cab back rolls over into the top is too tight needs to be flatter, larger.  It's too "peaky" if you will.

Upper rear corner of door window opening is too tight, small. Needs to somewhat match the profile of the final radius across the top...ii think...

This is the cool factor in scratch building and modding stuff...trying to build what you see pictured in your head.

If something's not right you know it but can't always identify it Immediately. Sometimes takes multiple redos on a spot before it clicks.

 

IMG_20200806_143016.jpg

Posted

Going to take a break from the body for a while. I'm setting up the mill for drilling some head bolt holes. I have hardware down to 00_90 and I'm going to attempt to bolt the thing together, top to bottom.

Stay tuned.

Posted

It's a toolmakers vice. I like it in that due to its design, it pulls the sliding jaw down to the base, eliminating jaw lift which can disrupt the setup, causing inaccuracy in the work.

When I'm putting it on the table, I always set up an indicator and read both axis. Gets everything squared up with the mill.

 

IMG_20200815_122239.jpg

IMG_20200815_122521.jpg

Posted

In order to drill through the head into the block accurately, the head must be securely clamped in place to prevent movement during the operation. However, there are no parallel surfaces available between head and block.

The solution I've come up with is to drill and tap the sides of the block and bolt the small piece of plate to it, creating a suitable parallel across from the left side of the head that's sturdy enough to withstand the demands of the proceedure without moving.

Once finished, I'll put some brass plugs in the holes to simulate freeze plugs.  ?

 

 

IMG_20200818_113432.jpg

IMG_20200818_113413.jpg

Posted

Cutting threads in side of the block.

Bolted securely in place.

Now have a parallel surfaces to clamp to.

IMG_20200821_121214.jpg

IMG_20200821_124918.jpg

IMG_20200821_121759.jpg

Posted

The heads have a lip on them for headbolts.

This lip alows the piece to move when in clamps, so I built a shim pack out of feeler gauges eliminating the rocking, allowing a secure clamp up.

Using a thick centering bit to cut a drill pocket that is on line with the layout. Starting with the small dimension bit would have caused it to walk off place due to the bevel on the head surface and the bits small size allowing it to flex easily.

I might add here that I'm not attempting to model any particular engine here, rather this entire project is to strongly emulate the vibe and ferosity of this type car.,

 

 

 

IMG_20200822_103154.jpg

IMG_20200822_103205.jpg

IMG_20200822_103220.jpg

Posted

First side securely bolted in place.

If you look real close, you can see the hex bolt heads peeking out of the recess  pocket.

 

IMG_20200826_135502.jpg

IMG_20200826_135543.jpg

IMG_20200826_135522.jpg

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
×
×
  • Create New...