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Another Pocher Mercedes building. Cabrio Special.


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I bought the distributor cap from MMC but I think the supplied bolts was little to big. So I make new from 1.0 mm hexrod .(Thanks for the tip Harry P.)
You can see the little white dot.

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A little red/brown on the cap and silver on the nuts

 

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I also put small rivets on the wire loom. And off course ignition wire.

 

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So far :-)

/Bo

 

 

 

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  • 2 weeks later...

Update.

 

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Start painting the wheels, what have I done?? This could never work.

 

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Five layers later, it´s ok I think.

 

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The engine in place. Don´t mention the firewall I will fix that later.

I think Pocher give “test fitting a face”, I don´t know how many times I have test fitted every single “piece” on this car J And I have a LOT more to do.

/Bo

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I have some problem with the”fit” of the radiator in the metal frame when, the two halves where put together. So I first glue the forward half in the frame with some dots of epoxy. 

 

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Some work on the firewall.

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When I mounted the firewall on the car, there was a conflict between the horn and the exhaust, so I have to move the horn a little bit higher.

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A little more, my pictures are big :-)

 

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I test fitted the firewall and the radiator with my new braces. I think 1.4 mm brass rod is ok, but they come very close to the “top”. I don´t know how to fix that.

Maybe I go on with it as it is, and put some BMF on them to get rid of the brass color.

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TESTFITTING, TESTFITTING, TESTFITTING..................

 

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The "rail" on the frame of the main body, was not ligning up right against the fenders. So I had to drill/thread to put an screw in to get the right alignment.

 

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This part was warped, so I test the "boiling-method" but it getting worse :-(
I have order a spare part :-)

 

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Great work Bo. Continue with the patient test fitting - it is vital with these Pochers. If it's anything like mine, the four hood panels and the hinge will be very difficult. Especially if the hinge parts are warped or bent.

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Thank you!
Yes I will continue with the test fitting (patient).
And yes my hinge is not symmetrical, I will try to get a better one.
In one end its ok, but in the other, it is like the photo.

 

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While I am waiting for the spare parts to the hood, I start with the dashboard.

I have bought some “real” leather from MMC, very nice and soft, but as you see in pictures the backside is much “lighter”. I have to paint the edges of the leather so the” lighter” edges should not be seen. Maybe next time I should use some other material that is the same color both fore and back.

Otherwise I satisfied with the dashboard, I have not put the stickers behind the big knop yet.

The instruments are a transkit from Tremonia with some “clear” put on.
The instruments are not permanently glued yet, so some alignment has to be done. The hand gloves handles are 1mm al-wire.

I have taken some leather in some “lighter” tan to the front of the hand gloves lids, hard to see in the photos, did it just for fun.

 

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You nailed that radiator - one of the toughest parts to do, especially at smaller scales. The big question is how to do the gauge panel, which should be mother of pearl. Bass boat silver metal flake?  Gold metal flake with silver on top? It's an issue. 

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Could be done same as I did my Rolls burlwood; printed image on photo paper. Copy and save this image:

Enlarge to your needs, print on quality glossy photo paper. Cut with scissors or knife. If desired coat with clear acrylic spray. If you don't like this one, there are thousands more on line. If you don't like the result, it cost you nothing. No one will know it's paper in place on the model.

 

 

 

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When I built mine, I went to the scrapbooking aisle at Hobby Lobby and found some paper with a "mother of pearl" pattern printed on it. Cut a piece out and cleared over it. I know there are no Hobby Lobby stores in Sweden, but I assume they also do scrapbooking and also have craft stores. He might be able to find some paper with the "mother of pearl" printed on it.

Or like cato sez... google image search, print it out, and you're good to go.

https://www.google.com/search?q=mother+of+pearl&biw=1535&bih=866&source=lnms&tbm=isch&sa=X&ved=0CAYQ_AUoAWoVChMI0ZjuyoTIyAIViBk-Ch3ZawE9

 

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Thank you all, for your comments. I appreciate that.

I visit a “scrapbook store” to look after some paper with correct pattern on, but the only I found was “marble”. That what I tested, with clear spray on, and as you can the result was very plain.

I will try to print “mother of pearl” as you suggested, on photo paper.

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More test fitting

When I test fit the hood on the right (exhaust) there where no alternative than to take of material on the back side of the hood because of the exhaust. This mean that the “top hood” has to be shorten a couple of mm.
Hope this will work. (I´m a little scary)

To be consequent, I will take of material in the back for the left hood as well.

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I would like to install the hinges permanently before I paint the doors.

When this is done it´s much easier to get the right fit.

I hope it´s possible to mask the hinges and then paint.

Any ideas/thoughts about this???

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Give the doors and the body some paint before installing so you get real-looking coverage on the inside of the jambs, etc (HOWEVER: the jambs on the doors and the body would be lined by chrome panels on this Mercedes).

Mercedes-Benz_540K_CabrioletDoor_1939_14

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Thank you Skip for yours suggestion, I appreciate that. Nice photos.

Why I wonder, was that I would like to have as god fit as possible with the door before I paint them.
And I think that was easier to get, if I have had the hinges fixed as they should be.

The main body is dark red as you can see, so when I going to paint that white, I could not do any adjustment afterwards J

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Slowly forward.

I put the door hinges on permanently, for me it was the only way to fit door.

Now I had to decide the door panels look. I think I go for something like the first photo from Skip.
And maybe put a dark brown or black or chrome “thread” in the seams.

 

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