How to "tack" parts for fitting ?

[Goodwrench3]

Hi all --

What can you use to "tack" parts together for fitting and then be able to separate them easily for painting ?

I'd like to "tack" the grille to the cab for test fitting the cab supports etc., and then remove it for painting.

Thanks

 

[Tesla]

I use poster putty for test fitting with good results.

[10thumbs]

Jeff, I think you need different glue-types for the parts, or assemblies at hand.

Like Dennis wrote, that stuff is real good my opinion.  Nothing permanent and can be easily scraped off / separated.

A good thing too in my opinion is wood glue, the quick drying sort (read 5 minutes, you can even dilute to with water, 3-1 is good).

I'm not much of a big mock-up type of builder, but I think too it's better to do more mocking up.

 

[Old Buckaroo]

Everyday Elmers white glue.  Not only do I use it for mockups it is what I attach mirrors and hood badges, head lights ect ect with so as not to damage paint. Also when it comes time to move again , I can pop the mirrors off for safe packing.

[10thumbs]

Sean, Elmers, OK,  wood glue.  Tell us about the drying time?

What about the thin brace parts for mirrors after paint?   How do you flick the parts off?  What kind of paint is already on the piece?  Enamel, acrylic?

[Goodwrench3]

Everyday Elmers white glue.  Not only do I use it for mockups it is what I attach mirrors and hood badges, head lights ect ect with so as not to damage paint. Also when it comes time to move again , I can pop the mirrors off for safe packing.

Awesome.  super.

Simple white glue.

While on the subject of gluing parts --  what about gluing painted parts to other painted surfaces ?  i.e.  after painting the frame/ chassis assembly gluing on additional parts to it ?  

I had always considered that a "no-no", but was watching one of Hunter Selby's videos the other day and he apparently does it all the time using Testors liquiid cement and says he has no issues doing it (not issues with parts not staying glued, etc.).

I'll have several parts that I'll need to attach after the frame/chassis is painted -- I can't see scraping through the color and primer coats to get to bare plastic and runining the finish in the process.

Thanks !

 

[10thumbs]

I'm looking too.  Good topic.

Elmers has a penetrating effect to bind surfaces.  Wood has a porous structure.  Styrene does not, at least for our purposes.  Therefore the bind is only superficial.  It won't deal with stress.   It's only a seal-and-deal joint. It will hold, just don't bend or stress the joint / connection too much.  Since the glue doesn't enter the material in a molecular way, there is no further bonding possible.  The stuff is great for mocking up our models.

Binding plastics is another world, not necessary here.

I haven't a clue to bind on a temporary basis parts that have already been painted, but have to agree that wood glue should work,  Great tip!

Edited December 26, 2015 by 10thumbs

[Goodwrench3]

I'm looking too.  Good topic.

Elmers has a penetrating effect to bind surfaces.  Wood has a porous structure.  Styrene does not, at least for our purposes.  Therefore the bind is only superficial.  It won't deal with stress.   It's only a seal-and-deal joint. It will hold, just don't bend or stress the joint / connection too much.  Since the glue doesn't enter the material in a molecular way, there is no further bonding possible.  The stuff is great for mocking up our models.

Binding plastics is another world, not necessary here.

I haven't a clue to bind on a temporary basis parts that have already been painted.

Hi -- sorry maybe I wasn't clear on that point ...   "I haven't a clue to bind on a temporary basis parts that have already been painted.".

When I referred to gluing painted parts to painted parts, in that case I would want a permanent glue joint (the "tacking" is for test fitting, etc. before painting, etc.).

So, the question is regarding permanently gluing painted parts to other painted parts (i.e. gluing on separately painted parts to the already painted frame/suspension) -- permanently.  

Again, my concern is around scraping thru the paint and primer to get to bare plastic (if that is really necessary? ).

Thanks

 

[10thumbs]

OK Jeff, no problem.

I read your original question differently, hence my reply.

This though, has me wondering;

"Again, my concern is around scraping thru the paint and primer to get to bare plastic (if that is really necessary? )."

Maybe my browser is acting up again.  Dang Notebooks.

[Old Buckaroo]

Sean, Elmers, OK,  wood glue.  Tell us about the drying time?

What about the thin brace parts for mirrors after paint?   How do you flick the parts off?  What kind of paint is already on the piece?  Enamel, acrylic?

When I build mirrors I take a spare cab (or you can use the one you have and make the mirrors first)  I will use white glue and glue the upper and lower braces to the cab. The plastic cross braces and vertical brace will be glued with liquid cement or CA. Once the assembly is complete and dry I use a flat chisel type X-acto blade to remove from the cab. Scrape off any dried glue. I have a small compartment box to store them in until final assembly.

For a tackier and quicker drying white glue "Micro Kristal Klear" is amazing. It is sold for attaching aircraft canopies and other clear parts.

I glue my stuff such as mirrors right to the paint (Enamel) . I started using white glue do to my shaky hands. If I botched it I could clean up my mistake , something you cant do with liquid cement or CA.

I have not used wood glue, just the white Elmers glue.

 

Jeff - I glue painted parts with Tamiya Green cap liquid cement.  I imagine the other types of liquid  cement work the same.  The seam will wick the cement in with no damage to the surrounding paint if use in moderation. I may cement the same are several times within a few seconds just so I dont overload the area  at once.

[Goodwrench3]

OK thx.

I use the Tamiya "green cap" (extra thin) cement quite a bit, but I've never been "brave" enough to touch it to a painted surface yet, for fear it would either eat the paint or mark the finish up or leave a "ghost" on the paint.

For CA glues, are any of them OK to use for styrene ?  Or can some of them attack./craze the plastic ?

Great info.

 

 

 

[10thumbs]

Thanks Sean, my mistake.  I thought Elmers Glue was wood glue.  I don't know about the other products from this company.  My bad.

Jeff, a good CA will join about anything imaginable. 

[Fat Brian]

Thanks Sean, my mistake.  I thought Elmers Glue was wood glue.  I don't know about the other products from this company.  My bad.

Jeff, a good CA will join about anything imaginable. 

Elmer's makes several types of glue, the regular white glue for paper and kids things and the tan wood glue.