I Might Have It Finally

[sidewaze]

I've been trying to do a Viper for my best friend's 1:1 . He's the kinda guy that evryone want's to know ! Anyways I've been working on this model for well over a year because I'm having such a hard time laying down that perfect paint job . I know after numerous articles read that the perfect paint starts with a perfect base/primer . Well needless to say that I tried a couple of kits before attempting his and had decent results so I trekked forward. Started with preping the body then on to primer, well laid the first few mist coats to make sure no reaction to plastic. Feeling confident went on to apply more to only encouner some type of crazeing. Well anyways this happened again and again different primers always trying to change one thing everytime to narrow it down but no luck. Now getting very frustrated as to question selling my whole collection an give up this isn't any fun. Now fast forward to just recently cleaning my area I raised my height of my spray booth changed the flow of a few things and decided to get into some modeling and practise primer. Oh by the way I was soo frustrated with the Viper it was stripped 3 times bought an entire new kit that stripped twice. So here I am today starting with a 68 vette laying down primer thought hey not bad and kept going to what you see here. This isn't sanded and I think not too bad pretty smooth. Now I think I'll attempt the Viper next, oh this is a primer I get at the local autobody shop for 5.95 for 11 o/z or 311g , very happy with the primer I move on to what I think is a very nice result. Trust me guys not trying to be cocky or conceited but it has been a long time getting here and feel I have to pump myself up. Well let me know if I'm misleading myself but how do these look.

Thanks,

Sidewaze

p.s. don't be afraid to critique

[m408]

I've been trying to do a Viper for my best friend's 1:1 . He's the kinda guy that evryone want's to know ! Anyways I've been working on this model for well over a year because I'm having such a hard time laying down that perfect paint job . I know after numerous articles read that the perfect paint starts with a perfect base/primer . Well needless to say that I tried a couple of kits before attempting his and had decent results so I trekked forward. Started with preping the body then on to primer, well laid the first few mist coats to make sure no reaction to plastic. Feeling confident went on to apply more to only encouner some type of crazeing. Well anyways this happened again and again different primers always trying to change one thing everytime to narrow it down but no luck. Now getting very frustrated as to question selling my whole collection an give up this isn't any fun. Now fast forward to just recently cleaning my area I raised my height of my spray booth changed the flow of a few things and decided to get into some modeling and practise primer. Oh by the way I was soo frustrated with the Viper it was stripped 3 times bought an entire new kit that stripped twice. So here I am today starting with a 68 vette laying down primer thought hey not bad and kept going to what you see here. This isn't sanded and I think not too bad pretty smooth. Now I think I'll attempt the Viper next, oh this is a primer I get at the local autobody shop for 5.95 for 11 o/z or 311g , very happy with the primer I move on to what I think is a very nice result. Trust me guys not trying to be cocky or conceited but it has been a long time getting here and feel I have to pump myself up. Well let me know if I'm misleading myself but how do these look.

Thanks,

Sidewaze

p.s. don't be afraid to critique

I'm sure no expert, but it looks darn good to me. I would only be concerned about the color paint. It is my understanding that some model paints don't get along to well with auto primers. Others here know a heck of a lot more about it than me, so maybe they will have suggestions.

[Clay]

From what I've been told you don't need to primer unless you've done some body work. But it does look good.

[MrObsessive]

Scott from this end it all looks good. One word of caution with the Viper in particular (and maybe the 'Vette) is that you've got to be really careful when putting on your color coats. You mentioned the crazing problem------that's because the plastic is very soft (especially the newest stuff) and doesn't take very well to hot automotive paints.

I highly recommend some type of barrier on the bare plastic before you do any painting, such as Future Floor wax, BIN, or some other brand of your choice. I've been doing this for quite some time now, and have had no problems with crazing and I've used hot lacquers.

Clay, I don't want to sound contrary-------but one should primer if they want their model to appear as realistic as possible.

Paint on plastic will always look like paint on plastic if it's not given a good base to sit on. Some may want to paint the body on the inside to increase opacity, but that doesn't cut it for me since it still has that look like I just described.

[Raul_Perez]

Clay, I don't want to sound contrary-------but one should primer if they want their model to appear as realistic as possible.

Paint on plastic will always look like paint on plastic if it's not given a good base to sit on. Some may want to paint the body on the inside to increase opacity, but that doesn't cut it for me since it still has that look like I just described.

I don't know Bill...normally I would agree with you, but I've had real good luck with the new Testors rattle can lacquer. The coverage is incredible!! Nothing like the poor coverage with many of their enamel colors...especially yellow.

I do spray the inside as well as the outside of the body to ensure opacity, especially on some of the thinner Revell kits made from white plastic, but unless I've done some sort of bodywork, I haven't been priming them.

I'm going to be spraying my Revell '64 T-Bolt this weekend with the Testors white lacquer over their thin white plastic. I'm a little apprehensive and curious about the coverage at the same time. I'll let you know how it turns out.

Later,

[Clay]

Clay, I don't want to sound contrary-------but one should primer if they want their model to appear as realistic as possible.

Paint on plastic will always look like paint on plastic if it's not given a good base to sit on. Some may want to paint the body on the inside to increase opacity, but that doesn't cut it for me since it still has that look like I just described.

This is with out primer

I don't know Bill...normally I would agree with you, but I've had real good luck with the new Testors rattle can lacquer. The coverage is incredible!! Nothing like the poor coverage with many of their enamel colors...especially yellow.

I do spray the inside as well as the outside of the body to ensure opacity, especially on some of the thinner Revell kits made from white plastic, but unless I've done some sort of bodywork, I haven't been priming them.

I'm going to be spraying my Revell '64 T-Bolt this weekend with the Testors white lacquer over their thin white plastic. I'm a little apprehensive and curious about the coverage at the same time. I'll let you know how it turns out.

Later,

I have had to sppray primer for the enamel, yellow is terrible as well as the orange, it just doesnt look right.

[MrObsessive]

Well, I gotta admit that I have a bias against the newer hobby paints such as Tamiya's car colors and also Testors. They're too "soft" for my tastes when it comes time for rubbing out and polishing.

Considering the type of work I do, I've been spoiled by real automotive acrylic enamels and lacquers as to me they're much more durable for handling and such in the long run. Sure they're a bit pricier than the hobby paints...........but I can do several cars out of one can or in my case for the occasional mess up......... I won't run out of any in the middle of a paint job anytime.

[modeltech]

Hello all.. most of you may not know me, but i have posted a build or two here!! i work in a body shop and have for years, and i agree with mr. Obessive on the primer issue!! now, i have seen alot of really nice paint jobs come from using no primer/base, but it seems that in more cases then not, when you use a primer you dont have as many problems in the end!! i have only been building for 2 1/2 years but i havent had one problem when i prime and let it dry for a day or 2!! i use plasti-kote sandable primer spray can T-235 from walmart!!! 4.95 a can and it is a big can, i can get alot of models with one can!!! the big thing here is washing the bare parts good before priming as well,!! i use dawn dish washing soap or the hand soap out of the dispenser here at the shop then let air dry!! honestly just like on a real car the prep work is key to a good paint job, so was between sanding and repriming as well with a toothbrush to get all the little grooves and that!! i prime all of my parts first then do my painting (engine,interior, suspension) and so on!! but i also use automotive paint urethane paints base coat/clear coat system that is used on real cars, and the clears have a activator as well as a reducer in it, which will make it "HOT" so to speak, the primer also helps with the alclades and such!! my point being is that for 5.00 a can its worth the insurance of knowing that i wont have to worry about the paint doing something crazy!!! here are a few of my paint jobs!!

Edited March 28, 2008 by modeltech

[envious8420]

it seems everyone has their own method.

when im having compatibilty issues, i'll spray a test panel before my subject

like and old body or a piece of sprue.

applying each coat in the same manner as i would the subject.

are you following recomended drying times?

a list of what you are using would help.(brand, type, etc...)

jim

[Paul Payne]

Sometimes you think you have it, but you don't, but sometimes you don't think you have it, and you do......... that about sums up my painting experience! Good luck and always move ahead!

[envious8420]

so, did you get it?

[sidewaze]

it seems everyone has their own method.

when im having compatibilty issues, i'll spray a test panel before my subject

like and old body or a piece of sprue.

applying each coat in the same manner as i would the subject.

are you following recomended drying times?

a list of what you are using would help.(brand, type, etc...)

jim

envious i wasn't asking to solve a problem or issue but I appreciate it. i was simply asking how you thought my primer job turned out. i'm quite happy with what i found and it's only $5.15 cdn a can