filling and smoothing seams?

[gbdolfans]

Hi all,I know this is basic,but,I have trouble with it.

I hope to pick the brains of the builders here.How do you go about filling seams,smoothing them,etc...

What do you use,when do you use it.

Is there a difference if the seam is on a straight line,on a rounded surface or curve.

Thanks,all

George

[Ace-Garageguy]

I have come to rely on the Bondo 2-PART "Professional" polyester spot and glazing putty, #801, available in auto parts stores, for the majority of my filling work these days.

2-PART means it has a catalyst...it's basically a VERY fine-grained "bondo", and mixing it takes a little practice to get it right every time. 

It will easily fill deep work, up to 1/8 inch or so, in one application WITHOUT SHRINKING.

IT IS FULLY HARDENED / CURED, READY TO SAND IN 20 MINUTES, if you mix it right.

It adheres well to 180-grit sanded plastic. Click on this thread to see it in action.   http://www.modelcarsmag.com/forums/topic/96942-dry-lakes-scratchbashed-29-fordardun-chassis-sept11/?page=1

 

I also use ONE-PART lacquer putties, like Squadron Green or Bondo #907 for VERY FINE pinholes and scratches. These products DO NOT HAVE A CATALYST. You don't want to use them for thick fills, because they WILL shrink as they dry, they take a long time to dry-through because the surface dries first and inhibits evaporation of the solvents, and they're sensitive to solvents in primer and can swell or shrink even more.

 

Edited January 22, 2016 by Ace-Garageguy

[STYRENE-SURFER]

I got tired of the lacquer base putty taking so long to dry and sinking afterwords.

I just tried this on a current build and it shows promise.

*Plasti-Zap CA glue mixed with *talcum powder ( on a scrap pallet using a Tamiya paint stirrer ) the talc seems to slow down the dry time

so you have a surprising amount of time to work it.

Dries quick,doesn't shrink and it sands quite easily.