32/30 Ford front suspension options?

[Art Anderson]

Exactly. Just notice the end of the link from the T-bar sits ON the axle, free to slide. If it's attached to the axle, even with a rod-end bearing or balljoint, it will bind as the differing lengths of the hairpins and the t-bar links swing-radii fight each other.

The setup shown also needs a Panhard bar (visible in your lower photo) as there's nothing else to positively locate the axle side-to-side.

Pretty much the way many cross-torsion bar setups work on oval track dirt cars.

[Jantrix]

I, and I'm sure others here, would like to thank everyone with real 1:1 scale experience with this subject and sharing it wilth us. While my father loved cars and brought me up with an appreciation of them, he wan't much of a mechanic. So my automotive expertise stops right after oil changes, starter, alternator and shock absorber replacements on my cars back in the 80's and 90's. Easy, bolt on stuff. Everything else I know about cars I have learned through modeling, magazines and car shows, talking to people.

When I build, I really strive for mechanical correctness, so to speak. I want the model to look as if it was real, to be capable of driving off. So my tires don't rub on fenders or wheel wells, my axles are (almost) never laying on the frame, engines always have motor mounts and aren't laying on the front suspension K member. 

I do a lot of Google research. The internet is a great tool. But when I need engineering advise on real hot rods, how it was done then or done now, you guys (and Bill especially) have always been there to keep me plumb. Thanks very much to all of you, that help us plastic hot rodders who love the genre, but have little espertise with the real stuff.