retroguy Posted April 27, 2008 Posted April 27, 2008 looking for info on making hinges for flip front...1/24&1/25
randx0 Posted April 28, 2008 Posted April 28, 2008 looking for info on making hinges for flip front...1/24&1/25I don't have all the answers but perhaps I can help if you let us know what kind of car and which model kit as there are probably numerous ways to accomplish this. there are several factors that are important like where the front is cut how much over hang in the front. off the top of my head I don't recall any articles done on this subject .but maybe someone else does .
Olle F Posted April 28, 2008 Posted April 28, 2008 (edited) I'm facing the same problem right now on a '57 Corvette and as Randy said, some of it will depend on how the front is cut. If it's a straight and vertical seam, the front will have to slide forward a bit before you can tilt it. One way to avoid this is to cut the bottom rear pieces off the fenders and attach them to the body, but you can also make the mounts slotted or sliding. There are numerous ways to skin this cat, and another thing that makes it a bit more complicated on a model is that the paint may rub off afterwhile and make the hinges look ugly. My plan is to use aluminum rod ends as hinges, and attach them to rods that can slide inside tubes on the frame. That way I can leave them unpainted so I don't have to worry about possible paint damage, and it also allows for the front to be taken off by sliding the rods out all the way. Edited April 28, 2008 by Olle F
bobss396 Posted April 28, 2008 Posted April 28, 2008 My brother Will had done a '57 Chevy a few years back and he did all the hinge work prior to cutting the nose off the car. With the chassis and interior taped in place, it took all of the guess work out whether or not it would fit back together. The hinge on that car worked out really well for him. Bob
Smart-Resins Posted April 29, 2008 Posted April 29, 2008 Yes, I too can use some help. I am going to be starting a 1970 1/2 Baldwin Motion Camaro and will make it a pro-street version. Wanting to do a flip nose, but if I cant, then it will become a fibergalss clip. But I am really wanting the flip nose! Thanks. Jody
m408 Posted April 29, 2008 Posted April 29, 2008 I think that if you do a "search" (at the top header on this page) you will find some info. Maybe not the whole answer, but a start.
Raul_Perez Posted April 29, 2008 Posted April 29, 2008 (edited) Here's a picture of the flip front-end that I did for my '55 Chevy ProStreet pickup. Here's the link to a couple more pics of the model "Under Glass": http://www.modelcarsmag.com/forums/index.p...hl=55+prostreet This one was done with three pieces of aluminum tubing and two pieces of brass rod, one piece of brass coming in from each side. Once the hood is fitted to the body, it was taped in place then the pieces of tubing were super-glued in place. By using two short pieces of brass rod, the hood remained easily removable for paint and final assembly. There are a couple of things to be aware of when building a tilt front-end that opens and closes well, and fits well when it's closed: 1) Depending on the shape of where the fender meets the door, you may need to leave a piece of the fender mounted to the body to keep the parts from rubbing on each other when the hood is opened. 2) A good reinforcement bar (like the black one in the photo) helps maintain consistent alignment of the hood to the chassis and the body. I hope that this helps. If you need, I can provide a few more close-up picks of the hinge, but this pretty well shows how it works. Later, Edited April 29, 2008 by Raul_Perez
Smart-Resins Posted April 29, 2008 Posted April 29, 2008 Thank you, thats one nice looking truck. I would if you could, appreciate one good close up. Thanks. Jody
Raul_Perez Posted April 30, 2008 Posted April 30, 2008 The brass rods are glued to the ends of the aluminum tubing, so I couldn't remove the front end to get any better pictures than these. I hope that they help. Please feel free to send me a PM if you need additional help,
Smart-Resins Posted April 30, 2008 Posted April 30, 2008 That helps big time. I would have thought it would be harder then that. LOL. That is a easy one now to accomplish. Thank you!! Jody
Raul_Perez Posted May 1, 2008 Posted May 1, 2008 (edited) ...I would have thought it would be harder then that... The simplest designs always work the best! With a simple set of reinforcement bars to keep everything in its place, this one opens and closes perfect every time! Later, Edited May 1, 2008 by Raul_Perez
MR BIGGS Posted May 1, 2008 Posted May 1, 2008 Just make it like you would do a door hinge. Take 2 small pieces of tubing around a 1/2 inch long and glue them to the outer sides of the front of the frame, But if the frame is strong enough and thick enough you can actually just drill into it. Then you take the wire and make it the size to match the outer frame or the holes in the center of the frame run a long piece of tubing to mach the length then bend both of the sides to an L shape and glue it to the bumper. If you want to adjust it and have it fit snug you have to add small strips of styrene and build it up till it fits right.
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