69 COPO Nova (UPDATE - COMPLETED & UNDER GLASS 1-5-17)

[om617]

Love the color choice and wheels,is going to look great.

[lghtngyello03]

That is a great looking start Scott, can't wait to see it at the show in January.

 

Thanks Mike!

Love the color choice and wheels,is going to look great.

Thanks Tommy, I've always loved the sleeper look on cars from this era with the dog dish hubcaps.

Edited November 17, 2016 by lghtngyello03

[lghtngyello03]

Last night I had limited time again, but did manage to get the exhaust manifolds detailed, and the plug wires and distributor installed.  This is my first time doing plug wires, and man those things were a pain in the butt. I'm pretty sure I said about every word in the book, lol. Go easy on me, hopefully it looks pretty good.

[espo]

Plug wires look great, you even went so far as to include the valve cover breathers, something usually left off by most.  

[lghtngyello03]

Plug wires look great, you even went so far as to include the valve cover breathers, something usually left off by most.  

Thanks David, I've looked through countless pics of 1969 427 Yenko Chevrolet engines to try to get this as close to right as possible. I hate that the fuel line wouldn't fit between the water pump and front cover of the block as it is supposed to on the 1:1.

[espo]

I had several big block Chevrolets from this era that I bought new. They were not COPO's but the '66 Impala SS was a 325/396 4 speed, the '68 was a Bel Air 385/427 4 speed and my work truck was a '67 El Camino 350/396 4 speed. In each case the fuel lines were very close to how you have presented on your build. The only way that it could be any closer is if you left off the kink in the line going towards the water pump. The line traveled at an angle in front of the block and pass. side head and then made a sharp turn to run along the tlop of the intake until it turned up to the carb. Your angles coming from the fuel pump and going to the carb. are as I remember. The only fuel filter was where the fuel line went into the carb. They had a gold colored stone of some sort that was all. But remember these were RPO engines and that is not to say a COPO could be different.  

[lghtngyello03]

I had several big block Chevrolets from this era that I bought new. They were not COPO's but the '66 Impala SS was a 325/396 4 speed, the '68 was a Bel Air 385/427 4 speed and my work truck was a '67 El Camino 350/396 4 speed. In each case the fuel lines were very close to how you have presented on your build. The only way that it could be any closer is if you left off the kink in the line going towards the water pump. The line traveled at an angle in front of the block and pass. side head and then made a sharp turn to run along the tlop of the intake until it turned up to the carb. Your angles coming from the fuel pump and going to the carb. are as I remember. The only fuel filter was where the fuel line went into the carb. They had a gold colored stone of some sort that was all. But remember these were RPO engines and that is not to say a COPO could be different.  

Thank you for the info. Here are a couple of images that I have been working from.

 

I'm pretty sure that this first image is more than likely a Camaro judging on the alternator placement. The bottom 2 are definitely Novas.

As you can see in this image, the fuel line is ran behind the water pump due to the alternator

Edited November 17, 2016 by lghtngyello03

[espo]

The placement of the Alternator in the first photo would  be for a '68 or earlier model engine without the AIR system. I believe that it is a '67 model based on the duel master brake cylinder, it is odd because of the automatic transmission dip stick. The Turbo 400 was available but not common on the high horsepower engines.  The second photo would be a '69 or later based on Alternator being on the passenger side , this engine also has the AIR (Smog Pump) which would have been mandatory for California and any other states with the smog requirements. The third photo gives you a good view of the Holly Carb. used on the high performance versions of the big blocks. The base 325/396 and 385/427 would have a Carter Quadrajet carb.   

[lghtngyello03]

The placement of the Alternator in the first photo would  be for a '68 or earlier model engine without the AIR system. I believe that it is a '67 model based on the duel master brake cylinder, it is odd because of the automatic transmission dip stick. The Turbo 400 was available but not common on the high horsepower engines.  The second photo would be a '69 or later based on Alternator being on the passenger side , this engine also has the AIR (Smog Pump) which would have been mandatory for California and any other states with the smog requirements. The third photo gives you a good view of the Holly Carb. used on the high performance versions of the big blocks. The base 325/396 and 385/427 would have a Carter Quadrajet carb.   

Yes, the 3rd photo was my go to since it had the Holley Double Pumper on it for the H.O engines. This let me know where to run the valve cover breather and how the fuel lines ran to the bowls.  I plan on running a line to the brake booster for the vacuum brakes as well, but I am trying to figure out the best way to do so. Look closely it also has the air pump hose as well. I'm only 29, so unfortunately I never had the opportunity to own one of these awesome beasts, but have been to many a car show. Thanks for all your info by the way, if you can think of anything else that I may be missing or that is wrong please feel free to let me know.

Edited November 17, 2016 by lghtngyello03

[mikemodeler]

Sure hope those plug wires are in the correct firing order, the judges might notice and take off points!

 

Looks great, hard work but well worth it when you are done!

 

[lghtngyello03]

Sure hope those plug wires are in the correct firing order, the judges might notice and take off points!

 

Looks great, hard work but well worth it when you are done!

 

Lol, thanks Mike. Yes sir, they are in order. I found this website that has tons of useful info for a lot of year model Chevy Firing orders.

http://www.mre-books.com/chevy/engines/firing_order.html

 

[espo]

As MikeModler mentioned, in show contests it is not uncommon to lose out to another  model that has something like the firing order wrong on the distributer.  Depending on the "rivet counter" mentality of others including judging, a note on color finishes. These three photos show very well how these cars are "over restored" today. I don't want to bore you with this, but depending on just how many rivets you want to count, the #1 photo shows  two deviations, the transmission dip stick would have been either natural unfinished metal or maybe black and the master brake reservoir would have been an unpainted natural finish. That is why when you look at most older cars the reservoir always looks rusty.  The hood hinges are painted black and they should be a silver/gray phosphate finish. this wouldn't stop rust but slowed it down for many years. #2 You can see the correct finish on the hood hinges but the brake reservoir is again painted.  #3 This is what you see most often at car shows, but there are some areas that are done wrong if you're really going for the concours competition. The Holly carb. and the brake booster are just to gold and should be slightly lighter color. Tamiya X-31 Titan gold instead of X-12 Gold Leaf. If it should matter, the Thermostat housing is the correct aluminum housing where the standard passenger cars had a pot metal type housing. Besides being obsessive about such things (my bad) I realize just how hard you are trying to do everything right, but some of the reference materials are just a little wrong. I'll be quiet now and enjoy  following your build.    

[lghtngyello03]

As MikeModler mentioned, in show contests it is not uncommon to lose out to another  model that has something like the firing order wrong on the distributer.  Depending on the "rivet counter" mentality of others including judging, a note on color finishes. These three photos show very well how these cars are "over restored" today. I don't want to bore you with this, but depending on just how many rivets you want to count, the #1 photo shows  two deviations, the transmission dip stick would have been either natural unfinished metal or maybe black and the master brake reservoir would have been an unpainted natural finish. That is why when you look at most older cars the reservoir always looks rusty.  The hood hinges are painted black and they should be a silver/gray phosphate finish. this wouldn't stop rust but slowed it down for many years. #2 You can see the correct finish on the hood hinges but the brake reservoir is again painted.  #3 This is what you see most often at car shows, but there are some areas that are done wrong if you're really going for the concours competition. The Holly carb. and the brake booster are just to gold and should be slightly lighter color. Tamiya X-31 Titan gold instead of X-12 Gold Leaf. If it should matter, the Thermostat housing is the correct aluminum housing where the standard passenger cars had a pot metal type housing. Besides being obsessive about such things (my bad) I realize just how hard you are trying to do everything right, but some of the reference materials are just a little wrong. I'll be quiet now and enjoy  following your build.    

No problem David, I'm not going for everything exact...if that's the case, this car wouldn't be..there was no "COPO" Nova. Yenko's yes, COPO no. And you are correct, the brake booster and hood hinges are the most "over restored" items you see at car shows. And I am aware that the reference pics have to be taken with a grain of salt...as in pic #1, it has a Chevrolet Engine Red t-stat housing, not correct.  Also, I'm not 100%,but I'm pretty sure the worm gear clamps on the hoses in this pic are also incorrect.

 

That is why I am going with a bunch of pictures to try to find wiring/hose routing elements (for the provided equipment that is included with this kit) in these pics for my first build with this amount of detail. Thanks for following my build man. Everyone here on this forum is awesome and gives great support to every skill of builder on here.

Edited November 18, 2016 by lghtngyello03

[om617]

Engine looks great. Not sure how much that differ on appearance from the COPO to Yenko,but there are way more

pictures online from the Yenko`s.

[Zoom]

Nice detailing, looks great!

[lghtngyello03]

Nice detailing, looks great!

Thanks Bo.

[lghtngyello03]

Been away for about a week. Took a week off of work, thinking I'll get a lot done at the bench....well, life happens and the to do list at home got longer and longer, plus we took a trip to Charleston SC for a couple of days.

Anywho, I was looking at the tiny tires on the back of this kit, and hated them. I wanted to go box stock, but that's not happening, lol.

I remembered I had a couple of sets of MA's Resin Drag Radials in my stash, so I began the work on massaging the body and frame for these to fit.   A lot of dremeling had to be done to the wheel wells on the body, and some work had to be done on the chassis to get them in as you will see in the pics.

Size comparison of stock tires vs. the Drag Radials.

This was just the beginning of what had to be thinned out on the right. the left is unchanged for comparison.

Again, right side has some dremel work done in the wheel well of the frame to round it out, but more had to be done after this pic, just didn't get around to taking another one.

Still have a lot of tweaking left to do but just wanted to get an idea of what I have. Yes, I know they are on wrong sides, lol...just test fitting.

Here is the stance I expect

Also got back from Charleston and found this in the mailbox

Edited November 28, 2016 by lghtngyello03

[511 nova]

Very nice. Color is going to be beautiful. I'm interested in seeing how you lowered the front if you have any pics

[om617]

Nice stance and will look phat with those rear tires.

[lghtngyello03]

Very nice. Color is going to be beautiful. I'm interested in seeing how you lowered the front if you have any pics

Thank you, I haven't actually mocked up the front suspension yet. I plan on relocating the hole for spindle. This pic is just with the body sitting on the tire.

Nice stance and will look phat with those rear tires.

Thanks man! I'm digging the big fat meats out back myself.

[lghtngyello03]

I managed to get a good part of my parts that needed to be semi gloss black sprayed yesterday evening. I think I am going to spray the seats with some Matte Clear to knock some of the sheen off of them.

I also managed to get my body, hood, and wheels primered, using Tamiya Gray Primer. I figured I'd have to work a little on my body work where the park lights go on the front fenders and rear quarters, but its not too much.

 

[mikemodeler]

Looking good Scott! Not to rush you but it is only 6 weeks until the show, are you going to have it done in time?

[Metaldrumm]

Nice car , nice model, great work so far.

[lghtngyello03]

Looking good Scott! Not to rush you but it is only 6 weeks until the show, are you going to have it done in time?

Thanks Mike. Yes, it should be done by then. Got a good bit done this weekend that I'll post in a bit.

Nice car , nice model, great work so far.

Thanks Brian!

[lghtngyello03]

I haven't uploaded any pics in a few days. I did get a little bit done over the weekend on Sunday after getting all decorated for Christmas on Saturday.

Just some quick pics of the interior tub and firewall with some wiring, and the carpet flocked with embossing powder. This is my first wiring job like this, so please go easy on me, lol. The front of the wheel well wiring is hidden behind the radiator support and body when assembled.

 

 

I plan on installing battery wires, windshield sprayer hose to the tank, and heater hoses as well.

Motor is finished up and ready to install when the chassis is finished.