Rusty models

[smacky-t]

After preparing a model with all the rust colors and dings and dents, I spray the model with Dullcoat.  So now it is ready for salt and such.  Must I use an acrylic paint for the top coat or can it be lacquer or enamel?  Can someone set me straight on the proper procedures on producing a junker.  Thanx.

[Intmd8r]

I'm probably going to get ripped a new one for my comments, but I firmly believe that there is no wrong way to do something on a model if it gets you the results that you are looking for.

Example #1:

For this build, I layered different colors with a brush (no primer), and then rattle can for the final color coat.  Some careful sanding until the base coats revealed themselves, and one last coat of flat clear.  Some strategic dry brushing doesn't hurt either.

Example #2:

This was my first attempt at a rusted Junker.  Again, I layered different colors, both acrylic and enamel over each other.  Next, I splattered some Micro Mask (aka liquid masking tape) and let dry.  Rattle can enamel top coat, and then used a toothpick to pry off the Micro Mask.  Some light sanding in the "oxidized" areas too.

If anything - going against the rules of mixing acrylic and enamel probably helped me get the distressed effect I was looking for.

Personally, I've never tried the salt method, but have seen great results by those who have.  From what I read, if you do use salt or hair spray, using acrylic top coat is probably necessary.

Only useful advise I have is to go experiment and have fun. 

Going to quote Bob Ross here when it comes to weathering cars: "there are no mistakes, only happy accidents!"

SC

 

[High octane]

I'm probably going to get ripped a new one for my comments, but I firmly believe that there is no wrong way to do something on a model if it gets you the results that you are looking for.

 

 

Example #1:

 

 

For this build, I layered different colors with a brush (no primer), and then rattle can for the final color coat.  Some careful sanding until the base coats revealed themselves, and one last coat of flat clear.  Some strategic dry brushing doesn't hurt either.

 

 

Example #2:

 

 

This was my first attempt at a rusted Junker.  Again, I layered different colors, both acrylic and enamel over each other.  Next, I splattered some Micro Mask (aka liquid masking tape) and let dry.  Rattle can enamel top coat, and then used a toothpick to pry off the Micro Mask.  Some light sanding in the "oxidized" areas too.

 

 

If anything - going against the rules of mixing acrylic and enamel probably helped me get the distressed effect I was looking for.

 

 

Personally, I've never tried the salt method, but have seen great results by those who have.  From what I read, if you do use salt or hair spray, using acrylic top coat is probably necessary.

 

 

Only useful advise I have is to go experiment and have fun. 

 

 

Going to quote Bob Ross here when it comes to weathering cars: "there are no mistakes, only happy accidents!"

 

 

SC

 

While some modelers do fantastic jobs on weathering their model cars and trucks, I myself don't like rust on real cars or my models either.

[Tom Geiger]

I'm probably going to get ripped a new one for my comments, but I firmly believe that there is no wrong way to do something on a model if it gets you the results that you are looking for.

NOT ripping you a new one,  I'm agreeing with you.  Weathering a vehicle is more like creating a painting than building a model car.  You can get in there deep with your hands and any media you wish.  I'm in love with earthtone chalks but I use them a lot different than most folks.  I will use dullcote as the carrier and "paint" with them.  It's all about the eye and being careful as your vision takes shape.

One bit of advice I will give it's not a free for all.  It's really easy to overdo.  Guys who think that you can take a bad old built up and smear some rust color paint on it are fooling themselves. I call those  "shake and bake" models.

My advice is to research your subject.  Find photos of how a 1:1 version of your model actually ages and rusts. Every vehicle has it's own typical patterns, places that they are rust prone.  Know the composition of the real car.  You cannot bend or rust a plastic grill or header!  Same with fiberglass panels. A classic mistake we see over and over is a 1955 Chevy Cameo pickup with rusty quarters.. they are fiberglass.   

 

[Intmd8r]

One bit of advice I will give it's not a free for all.  It's really easy to overdo.  Guys who think that you can take a bad old built up and smear some rust color paint on it are fooling themselves. I call those  "shake and bake" models.

My advice is to research your subject.  Find photos of how a 1:1 version of your model actually ages and rusts. Every vehicle has it's own typical patterns, places that they are rust prone.  Know the composition of the real car.  You cannot bend or rust a plastic grill or header!  Same with fiberglass panels. A classic mistake we see over and over is a 1955 Chevy Cameo pickup with rusty quarters.. they are fiberglass.  

 

Some great advise here!

If you look at the hood in my 'Cuda dio (propped up on the fence), you'll notice that it is "aged", but not rusted.  That's because the 1:1 '70 'Cuda AAR hood was fiberglass!