Making a Removable front end clip?

[crowe-t]

I posted this here since it's more of a drag car feature.

For a 1/25-1/24 scale build what's a good way to make a front end clip removable?  

Where is best to attach it?

Any tips, advice or pictures will be appreciated.

[Ace-Garageguy]

As is often the case with model cars, the best way to do this is like you'd do it on a real one.

Removable front clips, usually fiberglass, are usually hinged at the front.

They're often held closed by pins or quarter-turn (Dzus) fasteners on the top of the cowl and at the bottom of the rear of the fenders.

To remove the entire clip, you hinge it forward, and then take the hinge pins out.

This model built by Rotorbolt73 shows the idea pretty well.

To get an idea of how to go about making hinges that actually fit and close the hood in the right place every time, see my tutorial here (the basic idea works on any flip-nose car).

http://cs.scaleautomag.com/sca/modeling_subjects/f/31/t/94428.aspx

 

 

[futurattraction]

Michael - I'm not saying this is the right way, or even a good way of doing a removable front end, but I think it has some merit.  I drilled through the front fender and down into the top of small tabs that I added to the outermost part of the firewall on my Fairmont.  I then added pins in the fender skins, themselves, so that everything is hidden below the surface.  I also pinned the rocker panels and lower trailing/lower fenders to help keep everything in alignment.  I did this before cutting anything apart - the thought being that if everything lines up before cutting, it should after cutting.  If you take a look at this link, I think you can see what I'm talking about.  I will add Dzus buttons in the appropriate places, when the time comes.  I hope this helps.

Edited May 12, 2017 by futurattraction

[crowe-t]

Thanks Bill and Scott!

Scott,  I like your idea of pinning the front end before it's cut off.  Everything on your Fairmont seems to line up nicely this way.  I have a 1/24 3D printed 2013 Pro Stock Camaro body from TDR Innovations that I'll be building as Bo Butner's current Pro Stock Camaro.  I'll most likely not make the doors open but since the modern Pro Stocks don't have a removable hood I think making the front end removable to see the motor is a good idea.  The 3D printed body is in the White Strong & Flexible material and is quite strong.  As soon as I finish smoothing out the body I'll start attaching it to a 1/24 Revell Firebird Pro Stock Chassis.  

Edited May 12, 2017 by crowe-t

[comp1839]

what level of accuracy are you looking to attain? in other words, are looking to make an accurate replica  or are you just looking to make the front end go on and off?

[crowe-t]

I'd like the front end to be able to go on and off but I'd still like it to look accurate.

Edited May 12, 2017 by crowe-t

[comp1839]

bill's first comment is spot on.  

" As is often the case with model cars, the best way to do this is like you'd do it on a real one." 

so here is some real stuff.

here's a shot of  jason lines car (i did not take this photo, i found it on the internet.) the red circles show the attaching points. the forward part of the front end is supported by a tubing frame work that slips into some "c" shaped catches on the lower frame rail. the ones you see on lines car are bolt on titainium. the back is attached with dzus buttons (lower backside of the front fender and across the cowl / windsheild area.

this is a photo i took of jason lines car in 2013, when they still had scoops. you can see some of the support tubing in the front end.

here's one from the race shop of a cobalt pro stock front end the support tubing is a little clearer.

 

hope this helps.

 

[comp1839]

found another shot i took in the the shop. an older firebird pro stock car. it shows the front clip tubing in the "c" shaped brackets.

[blackbeard]

Those some great pictures of how the front clip go,s On and thank you for sharing them with us

[crowe-t]

Dave, Thanks for all these great pictures!  These definitely help.

Mike.