cruz Posted June 21, 2008 Author Posted June 21, 2008 Have you ever used the spanish copper for anything Marcus??Congratulations my friend, very nice job, happy I can be of assistance as that is the reason we are all here. I have not used that one yet but I am sure it will be used at some time in the near future specially after seeing how well you did w/ this!!
abedooley Posted June 22, 2008 Posted June 22, 2008 I couldn't believe how easy it was to apply this stuff!! Since I've tried that, I've been wanting to try all kinds of stuff. Today I even made my own throttle body spring. I've also been running wires for the battery, and making lines for the brakes. I went to Radio Shack the other day and bought some of those resistors for the fuel filter. You guys have inspired me to try a little bit of everything.. Here's the throttle body. I think it turned out okay. The rest I'll show when its finished. Thatnks for the tips and comments.
stump Posted June 23, 2008 Posted June 23, 2008 Hey Marcos, you got a killa shine on that Ferrari mate, great work, paid off.. The seats and interior look fabulous too man, s'pecially lovin' the mats with the FERRARI logo's in the corners....too kool.... I'm going to have a look for something similar to those "rub'n'buff" tubes next time I get a chance...awesome results. Abe, that chassis really come to life with the use of the above, great work too mate.
abedooley Posted June 23, 2008 Posted June 23, 2008 Abe, that chassis really come to life with the use of the above, great work too mate. THANK YOU STUMP! It was pretty easy to do and its really effective! I thinned it out a little and put a VERY small dab on my finger and just rubbed it over where I wanted it and put a lil' extra on the spots that would be worn more than the rest. Its really that easy!!
cotto Posted June 27, 2008 Posted June 27, 2008 I am loving every bit of this build Cruz, what did you use to form the badges on the floor mats specifically those little circles on the mats? Are they injector mold marks? Did you use a decal for the emblem?
cruz Posted June 27, 2008 Author Posted June 27, 2008 I am loving every bit of this build Cruz, what did you use to form the badges on the floor mats specifically those little circles on the mats? Are they injector mold marks? Did you use a decal for the emblem? Thanks Jay. For the mats I searched in my photo-etch spare parts box and found some Corvette emblems, turned them upside down, glued them and then shot my textured paint over the entire mat, this created a slightly lifted surface to accomodate the decals that I had laying around from another Ferrari that I had in my stash. I knew that the decal was not going to cooperate and conform to the flat and rough surface so I used some Future floor wax on the raised surface first, laid my decals and after they were dried I brushed a little dull coat paint to reduce the glare left behind by the wax.....Hope I made myself clear!!
abedooley Posted June 27, 2008 Posted June 27, 2008 Hey Marcus, I bought some of the Antique Gold Rub 'N' Buff and it seems to be quite THIN.... I don't know if its just whats sittin on top because I haven't used any yet or if its SUPPOSED to be that way.... If it is just sittin on top, should I try to get it to mix before using it or will it be okay as long as its just on top??? THANKS FOR THE AWESOME TIPS!!!
cruz Posted June 27, 2008 Author Posted June 27, 2008 Hey Marcus, I bought some of the Antique Gold Rub 'N' Buff and it seems to be quite THIN.... I don't know if its just whats sittin on top because I haven't used any yet or if its SUPPOSED to be that way.... If it is just sittin on top, should I try to get it to mix before using it or will it be okay as long as its just on top??? THANKS FOR THE AWESOME TIPS!!! It's suppose to be a pastelike substance, not liquidy, at least that's what I have experienced with mine. I would use a toothpick to draw out the amount I need instead of just spreading it directly from the tube, sounds to me that it does get watery if not used after a while.
cruz Posted June 28, 2008 Author Posted June 28, 2008 Well guys, here is a bit more progress on the Stallion, installed some mesh and started working on the black trimming around the car, these are the details that are really going to give it some life since there is so much yellow!!!
cruz Posted June 28, 2008 Author Posted June 28, 2008 This is one I did about seven years ago or so, I made several mistakes on this one that I wish I could have corrected but overall I think it wasn't that bad cosidering that I am putting more effort on my models nowadays compared to that time. If I recall, I think I also used the same color and paint!!
abedooley Posted June 28, 2008 Posted June 28, 2008 I DONT KNOW WHAT YOU'RE TALKING ABOUT WHEN YOU SAY "MISTAKES" BECAUSE THAT IS BADA$$ AND THOSE RIMS ARE TOTALLY WICKED!!!!!! Are thoses kit rims or aftermarket?? What did you use for the new model to get the black in between the body seams??? WICKED build AGAIN Marcus!!!! And it seems its just liquidey on top of the Rub 'N' Buff.... Should be okay. Must have sat on the shelf at Hobby Lobby for awhile..
cruz Posted June 28, 2008 Author Posted June 28, 2008 I DONT KNOW WHAT YOU'RE TALKING ABOUT WHEN YOU SAY "MISTAKES" BECAUSE THAT IS BADA$$ AND THOSE RIMS ARE TOTALLY WICKED!!!!!! Are thoses kit rims or aftermarket?? What did you use for the new model to get the black in between the body seams??? WICKED build AGAIN Marcus!!!! And it seems its just liquidey on top of the Rub 'N' Buff.... Should be okay. Must have sat on the shelf at Hobby Lobby for awhile.. Thanks Abe, the rims were part of the Tamiya kit, I love them too!! I like to use Model Master's Metallizer paints in between the body lines but I usually do it before painting the model, not after. In this case, I found that the panel lines on the doors of this kit were quite large so I didn't want to scribe more than I had to. What I finally did was use my preffered Tamiya masking tape, put it over the lines, follow the lines with an x-acto knife after burnishing them, burnish the tape very well again and just dip the metallizer paint right into the lines, capillary action will help you with this but you have to make sure to burnish that tape very good since the Metalizer paints can ruin your paintjob. Leave the tape on for about 15 minutes and then just pull it off, not straight out but in an angle towards you, never pull the tape straight out in any situation.
abedooley Posted June 28, 2008 Posted June 28, 2008 What did you use to do the capillary technique? I have been thinking of using some syringes I have layin around... These are syringes they use for TB testing so the needles are VERY tiny.. I cant find any of the Model Master's Metalizers near me... I have to go about 45 mins. north to find a GOOD hobby shop. HOBBY TOWN USA... We have 2 of them in Indianapolis, but there is NOTHING close to me. The body seams look AWESOME!!!! Keep up the great work Marcus....
Raul_Perez Posted June 28, 2008 Posted June 28, 2008 Marcos, That's coming along very nicely!! The extra touches you've added will really make this one stand out!! Thanks for sharing,
cruz Posted June 28, 2008 Author Posted June 28, 2008 What did you use to do the capillary technique? I have been thinking of using some syringes I have layin around... These are syringes they use for TB testing so the needles are VERY tiny.. I cant find any of the Model Master's Metalizers near me... I have to go about 45 mins. north to find a GOOD hobby shop. HOBBY TOWN USA... We have 2 of them in Indianapolis, but there is NOTHING close to me. The body seams look AWESOME!!!! Keep up the great work Marcus.... I don't use anything special, I just use a small brush and dump it in the paint pretty heavily and just let the paint run once it comes in contact with the surface. If you look at the picture below you will notice where the points of contact of the brush are when I peformed this on an 86 Corolla I did sometime last year. That is the reason to make sure you burnish the tape really good once you paint the car. You can always use a waterbased paint if you don't want the risk of the Metallizer paints chemically attacking your paintjob or use The Detailer, a product used specifically for this and other similar purposes.
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