some ??'s about some really old paint

[abedooley]

A friend of mine gave me a whole bunch of his old Testors and Model Masters enamel paints and they are extremely old... they have all seperated and I'm wondering if they are beyond hope or if they are still good. I dont know how long paint is good for, but I noticed the labels are from a time I barely remember. If anyone can tell me what years these labels were in use that would be helpful too.

Here's some pics.

Here you can see the seperation.

Thanks guys!!

Edited June 25, 2008 by abedooley

[Guest Gramps-xrds]

If it hasn't turned to jelly and can still be stirred up, there's no reason why it wouldn't be good. Enamels will last for yrs if kept sealed. Stir it up and use it

[Jairus]

The stuff at the bottom is the pigment and the stuff at the top is the carrier.

When the carrier has evaporated and the pigment solidified the paint is bad!

But when there is plenty of carrier in the bottle, lacquer, acrylic or enamel then mix it up with the end of a paintbrush and shake for a few min's. Should be just fine. Paint in a sealed bottle will, and could last past the apocalypse. The trick is getting it mixed back up again.

If it is too thick... add some thinner and shake, shake, shake!!!

[abedooley]

Out of almost 100 bottles of paint, only 5 of the Model Masters and about 4 of the Testors were opened. The rest had NEVER been opened until I opened a few to look at the condition of the paint. I was really surprised at how many he had never even opened. It was like he went and bought all that paint, got home with it and just quit painting right at that minute!!! He also gave me a COMPLETE IN BOX Lindberg remote control ship!!!!! Hes an AWESOME guy!!!

Here's a pic of the kit.

HOW COOL IS THAT????

[Guest Gramps-xrds]

Ledsled's right about being able to save some paints that way. Paint is composed of a few things, pigment, a carrier w/ a binder and solvent. If the carrier is to bad to save but the pigment in the bottom is still good, you can also save it by removing the carrier and use something as simple as varnish to replace it. If you can get the pigment to disperse evenly it'll work just fine.

[abedooley]

Like I said, only about 7 out of 100 had been opened at all and ALL of the ones that had not been opened still has the carrier as if NONE of it has evaporated. I KNEW someone could tell me if it was able to be saved or not. I am sooo glad to hear that it can be possibly saved!! Hell, thats 100 bottles of GOOD paint for FREE!!!! Plus he gave me an airbrush, R/C Lindberg battleship (complete and UNTOUCHED!!), and he has like 5 or 6 more of the large propellent cans he has to find, which is awesome since I dont have an air compressor. We've been good friends for a few years and he came over the other day whille I was working on my Challenger and I had all my sh$% spread out and came back an hour later with a car load of COOL stuff!!!!! WHAT A FRIEND!!!! Need to do something to repay him!

THANKS FOR THE TIPS GUYS!!!!

[m408]

The stuff at the bottom is the pigment and the stuff at the top is the carrier.

When the carrier has evaporated and the pigment solidified the paint is bad!

But when there is plenty of carrier in the bottle, lacquer, acrylic or enamel then mix it up with the end of a paintbrush and shake for a few min's. Should be just fine. Paint in a sealed bottle will, and could last past the apocalypse. The trick is getting it mixed back up again.

If it is too thick... add some thinner and shake, shake, shake!!!

Add a few "beebees" to it before shaking. Helps a bunch.

[abedooley]

Add a few "beebees" to it before shaking. Helps a bunch.

That is an awesome idea!!!!

[bob29579]

I have some that say 15 cents on the top from the 70's that still work fine. Just be sure to close them tightly when you finish with them.

[abedooley]

Add a few "beebees" to it before shaking. Helps a bunch.

I tried the BB trick last night and it worked PERFECTLY!!!! It mixed the paint right up! Thanks for the tip m408! Only one of the three bottles I tried needed to be stirred and shaken...

[abedooley]

I have some that say 15 cents on the top from the 70's that still work fine. Just be sure to close them tightly when you finish with them.

WELL I KNOW MY PAINTS ARE DEFINATELY FINE THEN!! WOW... 15 CENTS??? Thats just amazing. Nothing is 15 cents anymore.. Theres nothing under a dollar anymore!

[cruz]

Had a friend also that gave me about 50 bottles of Testors and Humbrol enamels. I only use them to paint parts though, I am not taking a chance to use them on any of my car bodies. If you own an airbrush you will be able to have better use of them, enamels are great once you thin them for airbrushing.

[abedooley]

Had a friend also that gave me about 50 bottles of Testors and Humbrol enamels. I only use them to paint parts though, I am not taking a chance to use them on any of my car bodies. If you own an airbrush you will be able to have better use of them, enamels are great once you thin them for airbrushing.

What is the ratio for airbrushing Model Master for airbrushing??? I've never used an airbrush before, even though I own 2, I dont have an air compressor and I have been meaning to buy some of the aerosol cans, but I just haven't had the time nor money. Besides, I'm waiting for my buddy who gave me all the paints to bring me his cans when he finds them... CAN'T WAIT!!!! Most of the paints are military colors, but I can still use them for little things here and there. Is there a different mixing ratio for the Testors Enamels??

[Guest Gramps-xrds]

Abe, it depends on the type of paint as to how you thin it. Lacquers thin at least 50% and enamels well that'll depend on how thick they are to start with. If you thin them to about the consistency of milk, you'll be pretty close. I prefer them thinner and just use more coats, but it'll depend on you. You'll just have to find the consistency that works best for how you spray. Back when I was painting 1;1 cars Dupont recomended 18 to 20 seconds from a viscometer (cup w/ a hole in the bottom) But I never followed their system.

[abedooley]

Abe, it depends on the type of paint as to how you thin it. Lacquers thin at least 50% and enamels well that'll depend on how thick they are to start with. If you thin them to about the consistency of milk, you'll be pretty close. I prefer them thinner and just use more coats, but it'll depend on you. You'll just have to find the consistency that works best for how you spray. Back when I was painting 1;1 cars Dupont recomended 18 to 20 seconds from a viscometer (cup w/ a hole in the bottom) But I never followed their system.

What if some of the paints are already about the consistency of milk? Whats a good starting point for someone who has never used an airbrush?? I'll just start spraying on an old "FOR SALE" sign 'til I git 'r' dun... Thanks for the tips GRAMPS!!! YOU ROCK!!! I wann be YOU when I grow up....

[Guest Gramps-xrds]

What if some of the paints are already about the consistency of milk? Whats a good starting point for someone who has never used an airbrush?? I'll just start spraying on an old "FOR SALE" sign 'til I git 'r' dun... Thanks for the tips GRAMPS!!! YOU ROCK!!! I wann be YOU when I grow up....

Abe I really don't think you want to be me when you grow up. Remember the old saying "Walk a mile in my shoes" My advice is, just grow up to be yourself and try to treat others as you'd like to be treated.

[abedooley]

Abe I really don't think you want to be me when you grow up. Remember the old saying "Walk a mile in my shoes" My advice is, just grow up to be yourself and try to treat others as you'd like to be treated.

OKAY, how about, I want to be as TALENTED and KNOWLEDGEABLE as you when I grow up??? And treat others as you'd like to be treated is my personal MOTO.....