Body Badges, Insignias and Lettering

[StevenGuthmiller]

3 hours ago, Deathgoblin said:

I've used a bamboo skewer or toothpick (sometimes a q-tip) dipped in Novus and seems to work well.  Just don't rub so hard you burn through the foil or flatten the detail. 

Absolutely.

If you are able to remove the paint well enough with a polish, I say go for it.

Sanding can become an issue if you are doing too much of it, and the sanding/ polishing method won't address the issue of the paint on the "sides" of the script.

It will remove only the paint on the top.

 

Steve

[StevenGuthmiller]

6 hours ago, Bainford said:

I think Steve touched on this a bit, but I always mask off the script or badge as one of the first things I do when starting on a kit, before the first primer or sandpaper hits the body. This maintains the sharpness of the script to the greatest degree possible. I pull the mask off and foil the script just before I start spraying colour.

Actually, I don't mask anything Trevor, but I'm confident that much of that depends on the nature and quantity of paint that you are using.

Detail hide will likely become much more of an issue with heavier paints such as enamel.

 

 

Steve

[PeeBee]

What Steve and Big Tall Dad (BTD) said, although I've been foiling the scripts right onto the plastic, underneath the primer, etc.  I think I'll try Steve's technique next time. 

I waiver between lacquer thinner and turps to remove the paint, using lacquer when something more aggressive is necessary.  Like BTD, I apply the paint remover with balsa strips, and Novus No.2 on balsa for final clean-up on and around the scripts.

Similarly, I use balsa strips for "intermediate" burnishing when applying foil onto chrome trim.

Molotow ink is great for touching up chrome plating, but I use it mostly for interior bright work.  I usually apply the Molotow first, bleeding it over the trim that is being "chromed," and then go back with the interior color and sneak up on the raised edges of the trim details.  Then I go back to pick out the smaller raised details such as knobs, etc., with Molotow and a fine-tip brush.

PB.

[StevenGuthmiller]

42 minutes ago, PeeBee said:

What Steve and Big Tall Dad (BTD) said, although I've been foiling the scripts right onto the plastic, underneath the primer, etc.  I think I'll try Steve's technique next time. 

I waiver between lacquer thinner and turps to remove the paint, using lacquer when something more aggressive is necessary.  Like BTD, I apply the paint remover with balsa strips, and Novus No.2 on balsa for final clean-up on and around the scripts.

Similarly, I use balsa strips for "intermediate" burnishing when applying foil onto chrome trim.

Molotow ink is great for touching up chrome plating, but I use it mostly for interior bright work.  I usually apply the Molotow first, bleeding it over the trim that is being "chromed," and then go back with the interior color and sneak up on the raised edges of the trim details.  Then I go back to pick out the smaller raised details such as knobs, etc., with Molotow and a fine-tip brush.

PB.

All excellent techniques Paul!

 

The only reason that I wait until the final color coats before applying foil to the scripts is because my paint jobs consist of as many as 8 or 9 coats of primer and paint.

That would be a lot of paint to remove if the foil was applied to the plastic.

Leaving it until right before the final color coat leaves a very thin layer of paint to be removed.

 

Depending on your painting techniques, applying the foil to the plastic will work just fine.

 

 

Steve

[gtx6970]

2 hours ago, PeeBee said:

What Steve and Big Tall Dad (BTD) said, although I've been foiling the scripts right onto the plastic, underneath the primer, etc.  I think I'll try Steve's technique next time. 

 

PB.

Same here.

for 2 reasons,

1st - most of what I build are old annuals most of the time they've been painted and stripped at least once, sometimes several times. SO the emblems are not as crisp as a  modern kit  allowing me to do the few coats of  paint then foil method.

2nd - I use rattle cans 99 % of the time ( which Im sure plays a part in my method ) and this method helps hide the edge of the foil , so to speak

 

 

Edited September 18, 2019 by gtx6970