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Posted
1 hour ago, slusher said:

Great color I would go wit it!

I wanted to, but since this is the wife's for her Sewing room, it will go into the pond. And I have a purple I am gonna shoot it. (I am thinking of putting Silver Mica under it, I think it will show better for color pop.)

  • Like 1
Posted
On 1/7/2020 at 6:38 PM, stitchdup said:

Started a polar lights harley quinn bug at 8pm and other than the rear lights and front indicators it was finished at 2am and yes the paint is still sticky. I'll do the trim with silver sharpie and get the lights painted tonight. And since I did it at work I got paid to do it. Now I need to choose something to take for tonight and I'm thinking to take both of the revell tractors and do some more weathered stuff

 

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Good one Les, I can't do 2am. ten is my deadline, after that I'm in zombie land

Posted

Absolutely nothing, just tested a couple of paints - miserable failure. The red one with the crappy finish Dupli-color "sting red". Bad to start with, so I w&d 600/1000/5000, didn't improve a lot, the orange spoon   is Tamiya TS31, straight form the can, one coat- very good, nice gloss finish, well for me. I will have Tamiya TS49 Bright Red tomorrow, so a further comparison, pretty sure I know what will win, Tamiya red or orange. Plwase let me know if you think I didn't get it right. Thanks

Don 

Posted
On 1/9/2020 at 6:03 AM, StevenGuthmiller said:

Continued working on sanding mold lines from chassis parts and working on more engine details for my '68 442.

Added the vacuum hose collar to the air cleaner and made a fuel filter for it.

 

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Steve

 

 

I have to try and do something like that for my'32, I knocked over a parts bowl and the exhaust extensions fell into the solvent thinner, bah first mistake, stupid mistake.

  • Like 1
Posted (edited)

After starting this one over a year ago and three paint jobs later,I finally got a decent two tone paint job on my Hasegawa Type 2 VW pick up.Top color is Tamiya TS-26 Pure White and bottom color is Tamiya Royal Light Gray decanted and shot through my airbrush.I hope to clear it soon.

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Edited by catpack68
  • Like 3
Posted
4 minutes ago, catpack68 said:

After starting this one over a year ago and three paint jobs later,I finally got a decent two toe paint job on my Hasegawa Type 2 VW pick up.Top color is Tamiya TS-26 Pure White and bottom color is Tamiya Royal Light Gray decanted and shot through my airbrush.I hope to clear it soon.

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That's gonna be a sexy lil bugger! I like it!  

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Posted

Here is a few update pics on the 57 Fairlane I am working on for the wife.  I will have the wheels on tomorrow I am thinking, and then have to do a couple details on the frame and add the black on the wire wheels to show the spokes. 

I haven't done anything else body/interior due to waiting on some stripper for them.  

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Posted

Messed around with the "t" while the clear is curing on the Chevelle. Moved the front axle forward and mocked up a blower on the nailhead. I really want to run hilborn injection on this, but the blower just looks mean.

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  • Like 1
Posted
1 hour ago, johnyrotten said:

Messed around with the "t" while the clear is curing on the Chevelle. Moved the front axle forward and mocked up a blower on the nailhead. I really want to run hilborn injection on this, but the blower just looks mean.

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Looking good!

  • Like 3
  • Thanks 1
Posted

Dove into the deep end on this one, shortened the 66 fairlane chassis to fit in my 66 falcon. I also had to scribe the original engine bay out to put the massaged fairlane one in. I used the fairlane chassis because the 66 falcon is basically a shortened fairlane, heck, on the 2 door posts they share the same door. This kit is going to be built to replicate my father's first car. I need to print some magnum 500's so I can get it in the moch-up stage. 20250813_221632.jpg.8d7042400b052068d8d5a7f14a8df733.jpg20250813_221620.jpg.c50bdb926d18c5500ef95df238528878.jpg20250813_221610.jpg.1ae67b86fad6f4f788db4501cca0e706.jpg20250813_181711.jpg.9f2ec8e26572f7e794344d2f2a2210da.jpg20221029_102150(1).jpg.79f77a0038e4275d8fd026688ec83b88.jpg

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Posted

Just trying to get back into the groove after an eight day road trip. It took two days of resting, but today I went out to the shop ready to finish up some projects. I made some progress on the Mercedes Sprinter van and hope to finish it tomorrow.

  • Like 1
Posted

Sean, don't know what you use for 'tubs' but I've found that cutting sections out of rattle-can caps works very well; just a bit if filing and fitting.  The small ones, like on some aerosol olive oil cans are just about the right size for 1/25-1/24 scale.  I get the outer splash circumference, plus the inner wall too.  Just an idea.  Wick

  • Thanks 1
Posted
3 hours ago, Wickersham Humble said:

Sean, don't know what you use for 'tubs' but I've found that cutting sections out of rattle-can caps works very well; just a bit if filing and fitting.  The small ones, like on some aerosol olive oil cans are just about the right size for 1/25-1/24 scale.  I get the outer splash circumference, plus the inner wall too.  Just an idea.  Wick

Wick I have sourced the amber pill bottles in the past for using as a pattern to make styrene tubs.  These are "cheater tubs where they are not seen do to a rear seat panel. I opened up the stock wheel well to frame and covered that area with .015" styrene sheet and the piece inside the frame .030" 

Thanks for the tip and I will be looking at caps more closely!

Posted

Mock up on the future "Missile" with MPC annual body, MPC glass, Johan Sox & Martin tub, Comp Resin hood, Amt 70 Challenger chassis shortened 2mm

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Bottom chassis is the MPC Cuda chassis, orange is Johan S&M, top is the shortened AMT Challenger chassis.

  • Like 6
Posted
On 8/13/2025 at 8:53 AM, johnyrotten said:

Messed around with the "t" while the clear is curing on the Chevelle. Moved the front axle forward and mocked up a blower on the nailhead. I really want to run hilborn injection on this, but the blower just looks mean.

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Mate, I new to this as you would have gathered by my posts, (many questions), I'm thinking maybe I'm approaching this all wrong. I trial fit, then if all okay, paint and glue in. The reason I ask, is I see with this model you have it assembled unpainted, how do you do that without glueing, as you have to pull it apart to paint. What am I missing?  

  • Like 2
Posted (edited)
19 minutes ago, Donny said:

Mate, I new to this as you would have gathered by my posts, (many questions), I'm thinking maybe I'm approaching this all wrong. I trial fit, then if all okay, paint and glue in. The reason I ask, is I see with this model you have it assembled unpainted, how do you do that without glueing, as you have to pull it apart to paint. What am I missing?  

I pin a lot of things together and very small amounts of c.a. glue. This is all mock up to check fitments and clearances. Here's a picture of the pin in the front axle,in the center under the radiator. 

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Edited by johnyrotten
More information
  • Like 2
Posted
2 hours ago, johnyrotten said:

I pin a lot of things together and very small amounts of c.a. glue. This is all mock up to check fitments and clearances. Here's a picture of the pin in the front axle,in the center under the radiator. 

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Thanks. I haven't tried the "pin", I basically clean up the parts test fit them, paint and glue them in place. As yet I have never fully assembled a model and then pulled it apart again for paint. being inexperienced, I true to not remove the parts from the tree until I am ready to cleanup and then test fit them. I sort of sectionize so I don't get all the parts mixed up, particularly the very small parts. 

  • Like 1
Posted
12 minutes ago, Donny said:

Thanks. I haven't tried the "pin", I basically clean up the parts test fit them, paint and glue them in place. As yet I have never fully assembled a model and then pulled it apart again for paint. being inexperienced, I true to not remove the parts from the tree until I am ready to cleanup and then test fit them. I sort of sectionize so I don't get all the parts mixed up, particularly the very small parts. 

This particular car is "design it as I go". I've had to move the front axle foward, the entire rear suspension is scratch built, differential was partially scratch built. It's an exercise in skill building for me. Everything you see comes apart and back together with little fuss. And is positively located, no chance of a mistake when I finally paint and assemble it for the last time. Still a long way away. On a box stock build I dry fit, clean up what's needed, paint,detail and finish. 

  • Like 2
Posted
33 minutes ago, catpack68 said:

I got the Hasegawa VW Type 2 pick up cleared earlier today. Damn Going to get it polished in a few days and start assembling it.

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Looks awesome. I've got pick one up. So many models, not enough time.

  • Like 2

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