New to airbrushing

[Dave G.]

1 hour ago, TransAmMike said:

It was primed with Krylon and seemed smooth enough, but I did lightly wet sand it with 3000. I'm wondering if I need to airbrush primer instead of rattle can, but what would be a good primer if airbrushed??

Incidently, I sprayed the dashboard not primed, probably not best thing to do, but the paint dried perfectly smooth, actually it looked like unpainted black styrene ?  Like I have said, I'm a WIP?

I can only say what I use under most paints these days. Badger Stynylrez primer and I cut that maybe 10-20% with lacquer thinner. Even 25%. Stynylrez is a primer sealer, actually water based but I hit on the lacquer thinner tip in another forum. With that in it it flows out glass smooth. It can be sprayed straight from the bottle though, it's a poly acrylic primer sealer. That's what I use under craft paints as well. Under any acrylic and under enamel. Base coating with lacquer is still up in the air using that primer, seems to go fine but have had questionable spots here and there. But that's not a big deal because I rarely use hot lacquer on models anyway. I've been on a path somewhat aligned with MCW for hard to match colors but he now offers enamel, so that is probably the end of my lacquer days all together except for a nail polish adventure here and there. LA Colors is dirt cheap and they have a dead ringer for some old Ford engine green. That said I can easily nail it with craft paints too. so I'll stop rambling now.

[TransAmMike]

4 hours ago, Dave G. said:

I can only say what I use under most paints these days. Badger Stynylrez primer and I cut that maybe 10-20% with lacquer thinner. Even 25%. Stynylrez is a primer sealer, actually water based but I hit on the lacquer thinner tip in another forum. With that in it it flows out glass smooth. It can be sprayed straight from the bottle though, it's a poly acrylic primer sealer. That's what I use under craft paints as well. Under any acrylic and under enamel. Base coating with lacquer is still up in the air using that primer, seems to go fine but have had questionable spots here and there. But that's not a big deal because I rarely use hot lacquer on models anyway. I've been on a path somewhat aligned with MCW for hard to match colors but he now offers enamel, so that is probably the end of my lacquer days all together except for a nail polish adventure here and there. LA Colors is dirt cheap and they have a dead ringer for some old Ford engine green. That said I can easily nail it with craft paints too. so I'll stop rambling now.

OK now Dave, so like the Badger Stynylrez primer and with good results, right??    I see it comes in several colors and sizes. Looks like  around $4.20 (spraygunner.com) for 2 oz, $10.00 for 4 oz.

[Dave G.]

10 hours ago, TransAmMike said:

OK now Dave, so like the Badger Stynylrez primer and with good results, right??    I see it comes in several colors and sizes. Looks like  around $4.20 (spraygunner.com) for 2 oz, $10.00 for 4 oz.

Most people who try it end up really liking it. Personally I just keep black and white and mix any shade of grey I want from those. Just make sure you mix it good is all, if it sits around it settles and can't really see it through the bottle. Shake it up it looks mixed but put a Badger mixer in there and you find glop on the bottom, just mix it back in. It's not a problem in the end.  Even if it comes out a little fuzzy some fine steel wool buffs it to a luster. The lacquer thinner to me puts it down great with a hard surface finish. Just sayin, all you can do is try it. Most people who do stick with it. Clean your airbrush good while the Styn is still wet.

[TransAmMike]

4 hours ago, Dave G. said:

Most people who try it end up really liking it. Personally I just keep black and white and mix any shade of grey I want from those. Just make sure you mix it good is all, if it sits around it settles and can't really see it through the bottle. Shake it up it looks mixed but put a Badger mixer in there and you find glop on the bottom, just mix it back in. It's not a problem in the end.  Even if it comes out a little fuzzy some fine steel wool buffs it to a luster. The lacquer thinner to me puts it down great with a hard surface finish. Just sayin, all you can do is try it. Most people who do stick with it. Clean your airbrush good while the Styn is still wet.

Thanks Dave, I'm gonna get some ordered and give it a try. Good idea on the black and white.Your use of the word "fuzzy" is a great description of what I call grainy. 

[Dave G.]

19 minutes ago, TransAmMike said:

Thanks Dave, I'm gonna get some ordered and give it a try. Good idea on the black and white.Your use of the word "fuzzy" is a great description of what I call grainy. 

You can't spray this stuff wrong. And as I said if by chance you see a little fuzziness a little buffing with steel wool brings it to a luster. And just be sure it's mixed up good in the bottle if it's been sitting around. The reason I hit on thinning it a little was because of shooting it through a .25 tip. And while Badger says it needs no thinning but if in certain circumstances you want to, then use water, I find LT does significantly better than water. Just me maybe. A .25 tip is certainly a certain circumstance. Plenty of guy in the FSM forums shoot the stuff with .35 or .4 though. I'm the odd ball there lol. I mostly shoot it through my Paasche H with #3 ( it's .6 if I remember right) tip but I do use that Badger and .25.

[TransAmMike]

3 minutes ago, Dave G. said:

You can't spray this stuff wrong. And as I said if by chance you see a little fuzziness a little buffing with steel wool brings it to a luster. And just be sure it's mixed up good in the bottle if it's been sitting around. The reason I hit on thinning it a little was because of shooting it through a .25 tip. And while Badger says it needs no thinning but if in certain circumstances you want to, then use water, I find LT does significantly better than water. Just me maybe. A .25 tip is certainly a certain circumstance. Plenty of guy in the FSM forums shoot the stuff with .35 or .4 though. I'm the odd ball there lol. I mostly shoot it through my Paasche H with #3 ( it's .6 if I remember right) tip but I do use that Badger and .25.

So the primer doesn't show any scratches after using the steel wool?  I'll be using my new Proton 275 airbrush, .3 tip.

[Dave G.]

35 minutes ago, TransAmMike said:

So the primer doesn't show any scratches after using the steel wool?  I'll be using my new Proton 275 airbrush, .3 tip.

No scratches with 000 or 0000, not from scuffing no.. It may show body work scratches if they weren't dealt with ( may not too) since this stuff designed to let details show through, so it really snuggles into things tight. But between Stynylrez and craft paint I'm very pleased with the results.

[TransAmMike]

35 minutes ago, Dave G. said:

No scratches with 000 or 0000, not from scuffing no.. It may show body work scratches if they weren't dealt with ( may not too) since this stuff designed to let details show through, so it really snuggles into things tight. But between Stynylrez and craft paint I'm very pleased with the results.

Ordered the Stynylrez from spraygunner.com about 30 min ago.  Looking forward to using it. Thanks Dave.

[TransAmMike]

Just now, TransAmMike said:

Ordered the Stynylrez from spraygunner.com about 30 min ago.  Looking forward to using it. Thanks Dave.

Forgot another question. How long to dry before using the 0000?  Sorry for all the questions.

[Dave G.]

17 minutes ago, TransAmMike said:

Forgot another question. How long to dry before using the 0000?  Sorry for all the questions.

You will know. If you force dry a bit with a dehydrator or warm air gun/hair dryer maybe 30 minutes. I like to give it a couple hours or shoot the stuff in the evening, scuff the next day. But I've pushed that time frame many times with no ill effect. Overall I don't rush much of anything though lol. It doesn't hurt a thing to prime today put on color tomorrow. You will get a feel for it quickly.

[TransAmMike]

1 hour ago, Dave G. said:

You will know. If you force dry a bit with a dehydrator or warm air gun/hair dryer maybe 30 minutes. I like to give it a couple hours or shoot the stuff in the evening, scuff the next day. But I've pushed that time frame many times with no ill effect. Overall I don't rush much of anything though lol. It doesn't hurt a thing to prime today put on color tomorrow. You will get a feel for it quickly.

Gotta agree with you on the paint next day (or later).  I've learned to have the hair dryer ready with acrylic paint, seems to level it quicker.  

And another question?   After the craft paint is dry and before clearing, what do you do about tiny imperfections before clearing.  Fine grit sandpaper, steel wool??

[Dave G.]

1 hour ago, TransAmMike said:

Gotta agree with you on the paint next day (or later).  I've learned to have the hair dryer ready with acrylic paint, seems to level it quicker.  

And another question?   After the craft paint is dry and before clearing, what do you do about tiny imperfections before clearing.  Fine grit sandpaper, steel wool??

Steel wool very lightly and if the color shifts on you just shoot another coat. Not all colors shift though but some do. I did a 39 Ford that had a big goober on that long roof and had to literally scuff it out, shot two more color coats, cleared is with 4 coats of Tamiya acrylic clear gloss. And that doesn't look too heavy at all. Just polished it with tooth paste then Formula 1 Scratch out. Looks good. That was craft paint over black Stynylrez. Funny color, the color didn't pop till the clear coat, just had to hang in there till the end.

[TransAmMike]

On 2/6/2021 at 4:18 PM, Dave G. said:

Steel wool very lightly and if the color shifts on you just shoot another coat. Not all colors shift though but some do. I did a 39 Ford that had a big goober on that long roof and had to literally scuff it out, shot two more color coats, cleared is with 4 coats of Tamiya acrylic clear gloss. And that doesn't look too heavy at all. Just polished it with tooth paste then Formula 1 Scratch out. Looks good. That was craft paint over black Stynylrez. Funny color, the color didn't pop till the clear coat, just had to hang in there till the end.

Hello again Dave. Looks like my Stynylrez won't get here until Friday and the weather gonna take a turn for the worst stating this weekend into next week.

Anyway, I tried to very lightly damp sand the painted Mustang body with 2000 sandpaper. Bad idea, down to primer on a couple of ridges, except I did discover a couple of unsightly flaws to it's back to spraying it again.  I still don't know if I'm thinning the Folkart with the right stuff for smoothness.  

[Dave G.]

I only ever dry scuff acrylics fwiw, usually with steel wool.

[TransAmMike]

4 hours ago, Dave G. said:

I only ever dry scuff acrylics fwiw, usually with steel wool.

Repainted it and it looks better but it seems after putting several coats on it the spots where I sanded off the emblems are visable. I sure don't think I saw it before I added the additional coats. It seems I just can't win?.

Also, I still don't think I'm getting the thinning part down yet, oh well.

 

 

Edited February 10, 2021 by TransAmMike

[Dave G.]

18 minutes ago, TransAmMike said:

Repainted it and it looks better but it seems after putting several coats on it the spots where I sanded off the emblems are visable. I sure don't think I saw it before I added the additional coats. It seems I just can't win?.

Also, I still don't think I'm getting the thinning part down yet, oh well.

 

 

I may pm you tomorrow rather than carry on here.

[TransAmMike]

OK, that will work my friend if you don't mind.

[FLHCAHZ]

Please keep this thread going!  I’m extremely interested.