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Posted (edited)

Hi all :D

Been havin' fun with Bill Geary, AKA - "MR. OBSESSIVE", using his screen name, but I have to tell you I would never assume or speculate as to my growing skills, even coming any where near his amazing talent.

To me that's a little to lofty to attain for us "Mere Mortals", as we could only dream.

Roll up windows :o - I don't think so!!! Not me.

But Bill did sorta challange me in designing and building these. I was sort of contemplating the idea, and Bills Funnin' with me" kinda pushed me over the edge :lol.

I wanted to hide these things behind the rear wheel wells and as luck and a little inginuity would have it, it all worked out, so it's out of sight and simple. No one will ever know - VEWY, VEWY SEEKWATIVE :blink:

I was actually surprised at how fast all this went. Took only about two hours to do all this. I'm usually a lot slower.

Maybe I'm starting to get this model building thing :lol: .

The ol' design and engineering part of of me really kicked in on this. Just like the old days of facing a new challange, and boy was it fun :P .

The cool thing is that I get picture's in my head of what to build, and then just make it. Just like in the "Karaty Kid" movie :lol: . Maka Da Pictur :blink: .

So here's some pics and explainations

So in this first pic you can see the "Notches" I had to cut in the rear inner fender wells to clear the gray plastic extension piece that the strut will be mounted to on the interior tub.

Photobucket2008075.jpg

Here's the "Upper clearance Notch" for the strut to go threw, and be able to pivot with the lifting of the hatch.

You can see the gray plastic extension bracket with the screw already mounted in where the pivoting takes place.

Photobucket2008077.jpg

Here's the pieces it takes to make the struts.

Photobucket2008078.jpg

I needed the diameter of the pivot fitting to be larger, so I glued a larger piece of styrene tubing over the smaller solid styrene rod, and then trimmed them off.

Photobucket2008079.jpg

Here's the pivot hole drilled in the end, for the mounting screw to go threw.

Photobucket2008080.jpg

Here you see a small piece of brass rod super-glued into the outside of the pivot fitting, to accept the strut shaft.

Photobucket2008081.jpg

And finally, here's two pic's of the pivoting strut shaft installed, and in different positions.

Kinda fun to play with ;) .

Photobucket2008083.jpg

Photobucket2008084.jpg

The assembly and mounting of the other end, on the hatch will be the next step I share.

There will be built in tension on the struts, so they will pose un-assisted in any position.

Thanks for lookin' guy's - dave :D

Edited by Treehugger Dave
Posted
Very nice Dave! Now that's thinking outside of the box. I am definitely keeping a close eye on this one, because this one's going to be a big hit!!!! Excellent work bud!

Thanks Marshall :)

Got the second step done on the "Hatch Side", and everything seems to work great. Hatch poses very nicely :)

Fun to do something new and have it work.

I'll post more pics when I get everything buttoned up. I did a little shifting and adjusting of some things for better clearance, and it all still works smoothly.

Talk at ya latter - dave :D

Posted

What a gas to be able to share your excitement in working through this build. What started out as beutiful on the outside is evolving into a detailing and enginerring showpiece on the inside. Keep on buildin'! :)

Posted (edited)
"O" that Strut.

That's some Engineering there.

That's really coming along Great..

What is your Bondo of choice?

2 part

Glazing?

Hey Zuk B)

For me I like two part Evercoat Rage for the heavy duty body work. Then for the lighter surface stuff,

I use a single part tube of Bondo's Glazing and Spot Putty - the red stuff you see in the photo's. It's lacquer base, and really bond's well with most well prepared surface's.

The quality of finishing these product's and how they accept primers and paints is without comparison.

Both can be gotten at paint and auto body supply stores. Most all my painting supplies come from there too. I do a lot of urethanes.

Both work really great for me, and have been using them for a lot of years. There simple, with repititive quality, and just work.

I hope this helps. Any other question's gladly answered - dave :)

Edited by Treehugger Dave
Posted
Hey Zuk B)

For me I like two part Evercoat Rage for the heavy duty body work. Then for the lighter surface stuff,

I use a single part tube of Bondo's Glazing and Spot Putty - the red stuff you see in the photo's. It's lacquer base, and really bond's well with most well prepared surface's.

The quality of finishing these product's and how they accept primers and paints is without comparison.

Both can be gotten at paint and auto body supply stores. Most all my painting supplies come from there too. I do a lot of urethanes.

Both work really great for me, and have been using them for a lot of years. There simple, with repititive quality, and just work.

I hope this helps. Any other question's gladly answered - dave :)

Thank you sir.

Duly noted, copied and Printed.

Just hit the 4 0 b-day.

I just can't remember everything these days.. :blink:

Posted
What a gas to be able to share your excitement in working through this build. What started out as beutiful on the outside is evolving into a detailing and enginerring showpiece on the inside. Keep on buildin'! :lol:

Thanks Bernard :blink:

During my 40 year career as a designer and mechanical engineer, I was blessed with pretty much getting payed to play at what I loved, and was passionate about.

I loved every day of my career and thrived on designing , building sometimes, and being in charge of hugely complicated projects that took month's and hundreds of hours to complete. It was the best, and it continues now in my passion for model building. ;)

Posted

I can tell you without a doubt that as good as the pics are that Dave is posting, they don't EVEN begin to do this build justice. I got to see this jewel up close this past Sunday night at our club (SABA) meeting. The craftsmanship is outstanding.

Great Build my Friend.

Posted
I can tell you without a doubt that as good as the pics are that Dave is posting, they don't EVEN begin to do this build justice. I got to see this jewel up close this past Sunday night at our club (SABA) meeting. The craftsmanship is outstanding.

Great Build my Friend.

Thanks Dave :lol: .

Yeah, the meeting was really fun, and I'm looking forward to several upcoming events.

Gonna be great :lol: .

See ya at the BOB PAETH CLASSIC MODEL CAR CONTEST at the Roadster Show - dave :P

Posted (edited)
As soon as you finish this one, I have your next assignment...

cadivette-1.jpg

:blink:

EEEEEEHAH :P

Cad-zooks Harry, that's wild :o:blink:

A MARY KAY CAD-ZILLA - LOVE THE COLOR.

I wondered where you been hiden'. You been playin' and havin' way too much fun there Harry.

You got my thinkin' cap "WHIRIN" now, and I'ma gettin' dizzy :blink::rolleyes::rolleyes:.

Hard ta take my eye's off that thing, as it's so cool :rolleyes:

Edited by Treehugger Dave
Posted
As soon as you finish this one, I have your next assignment...

cadivette-1.jpg

:P

Now that looks like the Love BOAT.. :)

Now does that handle like a vette and ride like a caddie?

Thanks Dave

I also made it to my Local Parts store for Bondo B)

That's a 50/50 mix right?? B)

Trial & error-ish.

Posted
Hey Zuk B)

Happy B-Day on the big "40".

You're just a kid man :)

Wow if you think he is a kid, I wonder what you guys think of me.

Posted
I also made it to my Local Parts store for Bondo :D

That's a 50/50 mix right?? :D

Trial & error-ish.

Hi Zuk B)

The mix on the Evercoat Rage is about 10 part filler to 1 part hardener, which is usually blue in color. The "Bondo" Glazing putty, which you just squirt out of the tube and spread, is a single part surface filler for "Light Duty" surface finishing. Comes in a red and black tube, and is in a hanging blister card. I get it at JOE'S in the auto body section.

You should come to our model club (SABA) meetings the second Sunday of each month, @ the local HOBBYTOWN hobby shop on 82nd across from Home Depot. We meet at 6:00. Be nice to meet you.

Hey, WHAT'S YOUR REAL NAME??? :huh:

I hope this helps - dave :rolleyes:

Posted

:huh: Wow, Dave! 'R-V' is comin' along superfine! Now all ya gotta do is pipe some tubing to them strut cylinders and have dat hatch open 'by itself' B):D . Little base under the Vette with CO2 capsule hooked up to a servo, remote control, etc :rolleyes: .

Yer havin' waaaay too much fun, buddy boy :D !

Posted

Pretty much buttoned up on all the moving stuff. Pin installation was straight forward, with no re-do's :lol: .

I like it when it works this way.

The striker plates are next for the pins to compress against, on the door jams..

I notched out the door jams, as you can see in the pic, and then I'll trim out a small thin piece of steel from a can lid to make the striker, round all the corner's a bit and then when the paint is done all this can be installed permanently.

Did all that make sense?? I hope I said that right :P

Anyway, here's more pic's.

I bet you guy's are getting tired of this thing huh :)

Photobucket2008092.jpg

Photobucket2008094.jpg

Posted

The watch pins came out great Dave!

The striker plate is a good idea as it should never wear out-------what's neat is sometimes you'll hear a little "click" as you open and close the door. ;)

Posted
I bet you guy's are getting tired of this thing huh ;)

If I ever get tired of seeing this build, there would have to be something seriously wrong with me! I'd have to find a nice tall cliff, just so I could take one step too many! Excellent work my friend!

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