E St. Kruiser50 Posted February 14, 2009 Author Share Posted February 14, 2009 Hey all Well I think the "ol' girl" is just about ready to start the painting process. It'll be all urethanes. Got the yellow mixed for it last week. First it's the catalyzed primer. Next is a coat of gloss white, so the yellow really "POPS", then the yellow, then some natural pearl mixed into HOK inter-coat clear, I mix this myself, and lastly, 3 coats of HOK catalyzed clear coat - wait no more than 24 hours - 12 to 16 in this case, and rub everything out, otherwise the clear gets too hard. I'll take pic's, and then post them probably later next week - dave Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bernard Kron Posted February 14, 2009 Share Posted February 14, 2009 ...wait no more than 24 hours - 12 to 16 in this case, and rub everything out, otherwise the clear gets too hard. Oh great experienced one , why dost thou wait no more than that and how canst paint get too hard to polish? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dr. Cranky Posted February 14, 2009 Share Posted February 14, 2009 Lordy, lordy, that's a great concept vehicle!!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
E St. Kruiser50 Posted February 14, 2009 Author Share Posted February 14, 2009 (edited) Oh great experienced one , why dost thou wait no more than that and how canst paint get too hard to polish? Hey GB Lacquers and enamels of various types evaporate their solvents and dry, where as catalyzed urethanes continually cure, (like an epoxy), a chemical reaction, for some time, faster to begin with, and then slower as the process comes to an end. As the paint cures, there is a toughness that evolve's where polishing becomes extremely difficult and require's a lot of "elbow grease" . Most mabufacturer recommendations, including HOK, recommend this process of polishing in the first 24 hours in their 75 page "Tech Manual". I've found over the years there's lots of way's to make mistake's with paint, but usually only one way to really do it right. I READ THE INSTRUCTION'S and talk to "Real" car painter's . Saves me a lot of headaches. Hope this little tid-bit helps - dave Edited February 14, 2009 by Treehugger Dave Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bernard Kron Posted February 14, 2009 Share Posted February 14, 2009 (edited) Hope this little tid-bit helps - dave Sure does! I've found that not waiting long enough results in paint that's too soft and results in just "moving the paint around" and eventually a foggy finish with no depth. It's good to know that I can also wait too long. I will check with the manufacturer's recommendations on my paint of choice and determine the ideal "polishing point" (whcih can be thought of as imperfection's "vanishing point" ) Thanx, B. Edited February 14, 2009 by gbk1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
E St. Kruiser50 Posted February 14, 2009 Author Share Posted February 14, 2009 Sure does! I've found that not waiting long enough results in paint that's too soft and results in just "moving the paint around" and eventually a foggy finish with no depth. It's good to know that I can also wait too long. I will check with the manufacturer's recommendations on my paint of choice and determine the ideal "polishing point" (whcih can be thought of as imperfection's "vanishing point" ) Thanx, B. If you're talking about lacquer's, they're a totally different animal. I have my own system of polishing lacquer's that I have used for years. I have several brands of rattle-can lacquer's that I stick to, one clear that seems to work over everything, and polishes beautifully, and a three-part auto polishing system, that always give me stunning results. They're a little spendy at the beginning, but they last a long time. I like having different systems that work well, and have had no problems for years. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Helipilot16 Posted February 15, 2009 Share Posted February 15, 2009 Dave, You are, beyond any shadow of a doubt, one of the best builders ever. I am in awe of your work. I "listen" very carefully when you talk about your methods. Thanks for sharing with us. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
E St. Kruiser50 Posted February 15, 2009 Author Share Posted February 15, 2009 Dave, You are, beyond any shadow of a doubt, one of the best builders ever. I am in awe of your work. I "listen" very carefully when you talk about your methods. Thanks for sharing with us. Hi Marcus One of the nice things about "On The Bench" is that there are many, many builders here every bit as good, and many that I look up to, with amazing skills and talents and great personalitie's, that won't be found anywhere else that I've found . Stick around and you'll learn so much, as I have from other's here. People enjoy getting along here and making friends and sharing, as I'm sure you do too. I look forward to seeing more of your work - dave Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Custom Hearse Posted February 15, 2009 Share Posted February 15, 2009 Dave, You are, beyond any shadow of a doubt, one of the best builders ever. I am in awe of your work. I "listen" very carefully when you talk about your methods. Thanks for sharing with us. I agree wholeheartedly with Marcus, Dave.... Except when you start talking like Elmer Fudd.... Then I have trouble keeping up with what you say.... It's looking awesome, and I can't wait for the color to go on. You're doing a fine job Doc.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
E St. Kruiser50 Posted February 15, 2009 Author Share Posted February 15, 2009 (edited) As a design and project engineer in my career, I learned key questions to ask myself and other's about the projects. One of those "KEY QUESTIONS" was "If I do this what will happen??" , and what will the problems be. Sometimes you had to fly by the seat of your pants and be a risk taker and a problem solver in the middle of the project, because there were no answer's until you got there, and then you figured it out, and we always did somehow . We'd design and build as we went , 'cause we were never there before, but you always learned for the next time. Was very cool and challanging. Model building can really be quite the same in risk taking and designing and building, and making adjustments as you go. I sat down when I first started this and considered the fragile area's, as I would be cutting away a lot of plastic, doors, hood and hatch, and the roof panel was already a seperate piece, which in total takes away about half the car. I'd be using a lot of "Muscle" on the Ol' Girl to cut out the doors and hatch, and could see me breaking this thing in half . In the open roof area, I decided that I needed two removeable braces, and in the door area's I needed to use the jams to beef up the body, so I maximized the width and thickness for ridgidity at this other weakest point. I also added more ridgidity by adding the recessed area's for the side exhaust. That added a lot Fast forward to today and crunch - time, and cutting away the roof braces and see if the bracing was strong enough, and it is, very, very ridged. The gap on the doors didn't change, and they still work very nicely. I can move the windshield frame slightly up and down, but the body refuses to flex at the door openings. Gluing in the windshield will add even more to the strength. So now I can handle the car safely when I paint it, and assemble it. Edited February 16, 2009 by Treehugger Dave Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
getrdun Posted February 16, 2009 Share Posted February 16, 2009 I don't know if you guy's realize this or not but your work so far looks alot like GM's shark prototype.....just my thoughts on it but should be a great one when finished. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
E St. Kruiser50 Posted February 16, 2009 Author Share Posted February 16, 2009 I agree wholeheartedly with Marcus, Dave.... Except when you start talking like Elmer Fudd.... Then I have trouble keeping up with what you say.... It's looking awesome, and I can't wait for the color to go on. You're doing a fine job Doc.... That's because I can be VEWY, VEWY SEEKWATIVE YOU WASKEWEE WABBIT Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
E St. Kruiser50 Posted February 16, 2009 Author Share Posted February 16, 2009 (edited) Latest and last pic's before painting. Everything changes after today Edited February 16, 2009 by Treehugger Dave Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
george 53 Posted February 16, 2009 Share Posted February 16, 2009 Changes? CHANGES???? Wha , you gonna put jets in it ? Jeeze Dave ,this thing is so far out the box of what GM envisioned,that it's a totally new car! An not too shabby at that! I always like what you dream up, too bad the automakers didn't have you on one of their design teams. Either way, the Vettes lookin good, Now don't it need some color? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Raul_Perez Posted February 16, 2009 Share Posted February 16, 2009 That's looking really good, Dave! I can't remember if you've decided on a color or wheels yet... My Raptor hauler and trailer are almost done, too. Later, Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
E St. Kruiser50 Posted February 17, 2009 Author Share Posted February 17, 2009 (edited) I made a mistake the first time and deleted this post Well, got this thing all primered and ready to go . As you can see in the first pic's it take's a lot of paint's and supplies to do this, not to mention safety, as you can see a face respirator. Gotta use that . Tomorrow I'll be sanding and doing touch up work if necessary, and mixing the pearl a little light, so I can sneek up on what I need, as I test it on the sample piece of a Corvette rear section. May take a day or two. When it looks right, the next day I will begin the painting process, which take's about a better part of half a day. I'll be shooting 3 coats each of white, yellow, pearl and finally the catalized clear. That's 12 coat's, 15 minute's apart. Once ya start you can't quit. 44 degree's outside the high, so good thing I got a walk-in spray booth that's heated, lit, and ventilated. Shot all this at 80 degree's. Should be Wednesday or thursday when it's painted, and then the next day I rub out all the pieces. Get's a little intense for a few days . Then I'll probably lay off this thing 'till some time next week and go play at something else. Got more than one life ya know . Anyhow here's some pic's - dave Edited February 17, 2009 by Treehugger Dave Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
E St. Kruiser50 Posted February 17, 2009 Author Share Posted February 17, 2009 More pic's Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RodneyBad Posted February 17, 2009 Share Posted February 17, 2009 I sat down when I first started this and considered the fragile area's, as I would be cutting away a lot of plastic, doors, hood and hatch, and the roof panel was already a seperate piece, which in total takes away about half the car. I'd be using a lot of "Muscle" on the Ol' Girl to cut out the doors and hatch, and could see me breaking this thing in half . In the open roof area, I decided that I needed two removeable braces, and in the door area's I needed to use the jams to beef up the body, so I maximized the width and thickness for ridgidity at this other weakest point. I also added more ridgidity by adding the recessed area's for the side exhaust. That added a lot Fast forward to today and crunch - time, and cutting away the roof braces and see if the bracing was strong enough, and it is, very, very ridged. The gap on the doors didn't change, and they still work very nicely. I can move the windshield frame slightly up and down, but the body refuses to flex at the door openings. Gluing in the windshield will add even more to the strength. So now I can handle the car safely when I paint it, and assemble it. Ya had me really worried for a minute. sounded like you were gonna tell us you snapped it in two. That's some good Engineering. Looking great all prep and good to go. can't wait to see it SHINE Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Custom Hearse Posted February 17, 2009 Share Posted February 17, 2009 OH MY GOD!!!! YOU TORE IT APART!!!! I'll never be able to.... What? Oh, O.K., you took it apart to paint it.... Whew.... I almost lost my cool there..... Looking forward to seeing it painted up. This should be awesome!!!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Clay Posted February 17, 2009 Share Posted February 17, 2009 Okay I am a little confused. In the first picture here you have the rearend on a bottle. But in this picture its attached. Please enlighten me. Awesome job on it Dave!!!! What color? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
E St. Kruiser50 Posted February 17, 2009 Author Share Posted February 17, 2009 Okay I am a little confused. In the first picture here you have the rearend on a bottle. But in this picture its attached. Please enlighten me. Awesome job on it Dave!!!! What color? Hi Clay The first pic is of the entire car ready for primer, the second pic is of all the part's, plus the rear end from a donor kit that I'll be using as a test sample for each stage of painting, so I don't mess up. Good questions. I can see where the pic's could be confusing . Thanks for asking - dave Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CB Posted February 17, 2009 Share Posted February 17, 2009 Good thing we have a sharp eyed Marine on duty here in this thread. I didn't even notice your extra rear end until Clay pointed that out. We caint hardly believe our eyeballs at times Dave, lookin' at yer stuff , and then ya goes and throws in extra parts!! Maybe you could whip up that extra rear into a trailer? Nice informative thread, Dave. Lotsa paint goes into yer builds---how do ya cram 'em all into one li'l old model? Looking forward.......(and a little closer )....... to seeing it in final colors. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Raul_Perez Posted February 17, 2009 Share Posted February 17, 2009 Looking good, Dave!! One suggestion; instead of using masking tape on the hinges, I use either rubber or aluminum tubing. That gives them a smaller profile, minimizing any disruption in air flow when you're spraying around them. Later, Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bernard Kron Posted February 17, 2009 Share Posted February 17, 2009 Cool detail WIP - vewwwwy edoocayshonal! Between your custom plating rig and and your climate controlled walk-in paint booth* you have a little model-making factory operating here. And good suggestion from Raul which I will remember come painting times in the future. *Very useful in the damp, cool climate of the PNW! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
E St. Kruiser50 Posted February 17, 2009 Author Share Posted February 17, 2009 Looking good, Dave!! One suggestion; instead of using masking tape on the hinges, I use either rubber or aluminum tubing. That gives them a smaller profile, minimizing any disruption in air flow when you're spraying around them. Later, Hey Raul Thanks for the great tip. I got um folded out so everyone can see um', but tuck um' back inside the body when I spray, but a good idea non-the-less. Look forward to seeing your project done - dave Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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