slowly Posted January 15, 2009 Posted January 15, 2009 I decided just to confine my builds to one thread, makes it so much esier Hope you enjoy! Heres the latest... Joint build with Ray... 76 Caprice, Iv done the ride height, paint-job, engine wires... 53 Belair... wont be building anytime soon, dont know what to do with it, suggestions very welcome! 32 Ford Sedan... best rod Iv got my grubby mits on... wite-striped the tyres, using the wire-wheels, going very traditional, going out for paint tomorro morning, so get your votes in! Will most likely get a schmikko paint job since its my first rod besides that dead one i did a while back... That engine is a Dodge one i was test fitting, but ill most likely use the kit-supplie Mustang donk. This is a Handa Prelude, front wheels drive... but not for lon, will be pinching a random ricer engine from god-knows-where (anyone? ) Them wheels are the Supra ones, who else thinks they are too big? The kit is 1:25 its just a tiny car :roll: This is a Toyota Celsior.. Yeah I know TWO ricerish cars! Im thinking of doing a stealth drift Car, since its curbside I dont have to do an engine, just a ricer cannon exhaust :roll: Maybe a 3 tone paintjob on this one, but keep it looking relatively stock :? Not entirely sure as of yet
Eshaver Posted January 15, 2009 Posted January 15, 2009 Whats to prevent you from building a replica stock 1953 Chevrolet with decent detailing? I usually go to Auto color library on the internet as they have the actual chips for the factory colors . OK, hate me ........................... Ed Shaver
marinewifejones Posted January 15, 2009 Posted January 15, 2009 David suggested you do the 32 in Blue, oh wait thats the only color he can say right now so I dont know if that counts. After all this time I still dont get why you guys cant finish one model before moving on to the next, this just drives me insane.
slowly Posted January 17, 2009 Author Posted January 17, 2009 I was thinking to myself today weather to do a box-stocker build for that chev, but Ed mate, I'm pretty sure I missed out on the genome that makes you want to do a box stock build Im just going to chuck some whitewalls on it and use some torque thrusts in em'... maybe a nice simple stock-looking paintjob with some nice chrome Hahaha I like to mix and match the bits, thats why I start em all... gets the creative juices going Heres the latest... the paint on the ford is monged... I went agains rays suggestions and did a couple of really thick coats... thats automotive paint and as you can see is orange-peeled to the brick-house!... suggestions? what can i do to it to make it in any way smoother without stripping it and starting it again?
slowly Posted February 1, 2009 Author Posted February 1, 2009 Heres the latest, its a POOH (pulled out of hat) build for another forum, the subject is 50's Drag, but I'm cheating a bit Have almost finished the engine, just need to fix up those rocker covers that say PONTIAC... Would love some ref piccies or info on those diagonal-sitting carbys... I brushed tamiya 'smoke' all over this sucker, dunno why, just makes it look gritty and used I spose. Still madly sanding away at those tyres to get rid of that insightly mould line. Havent touched the body yet, will be trying somethng new with the paint, will get a regular colour then ill mask off a stripey down the side and use a scrunched up ball of foil to press a pattern into the tacky paint then sand it all down smooth, wish me luck! I'll need it.
MrObsessive Posted February 1, 2009 Posted February 1, 2009 Some interesting projects there! If I were building the '53 Chevy, I'd probably build it box stock also...............but that's my thing! It would look good with a set of skirts and wide whites.............maybe a two tone green perhaps? As far as your automotive paint on the '32-----from my view it looks like the paint has crazed the plastic. Did you use a primer or barrier before you painted the color coat? Revell's plastic of late is softer than it was years ago, so great care has to be taken to barrier the plastic against the hotter (and not so hot) automotive paints out there. If the plastic is crazed (paint eaten into the plastic), there's no other solution IMO than to strip it and start over again. I guess one could rub out the crazing but I'm afraid your metallic paint would come out with a swirly, mottled appearance. The best way to treat metallics is to clear coat them after the color coats are dry, then to rub out the clear coat. One other thing I wanted to mention................did you spray the automotive paint directly out of the can, or did you decant it and use an airbrush? I'm asking because automotive paint (some brands) are VERY hot straight out of the can due to the solvents. Airbrushing on the other hand atomizes the paint a bit better giving it more of a chance to "gas out" before damage can be done to the plastic. Hope this helps!
Eshaver Posted February 1, 2009 Posted February 1, 2009 Slowly, the only thing I have ever seen work for a severely "Orange Peeled" paint job is Wet-or -Dry sandpaper uh 1500 and 1800, and then polish! After that is done and touched up, you would then go to MULTIPLE CLEAR COATS. Yeah , a lot of work and lots of time expended here , but that happens even on 1-1 cars too as I was in the body and fender repair business since 1966. Have fun................. Ed Shaver
RodBurNeR Posted February 1, 2009 Posted February 1, 2009 '53 looks cool with the mags and whitewalls! No need for a million other threads, but why not post your stuff up on the workbench? Just a thought. ps , might tell your mechanic to put the valve covers on correctly or it's gonna smoke a lot.
slowly Posted February 1, 2009 Author Posted February 1, 2009 hey thanks guys, some tope info your handing out! Nope, it was straight from the can, i dont use an airbrush cause i dont have a compressor:( Ans i didnt use the primer I have as it was a different brand and the test piece with primer and the met paint turned out extremely horrid, probably had some problems as the primer was a different brand. I spose I just got over-eager and didnt think and now the model is paying for it But i will dip it in brake fluid after a severe sanding etc. Thanks Ed, thats some info i can use on a few other projects (69 charger, 57 ford, 56 ford, dodge magnum, Prelude- just to name a few ). Come to think of it I see newish cars these days with horribly stippl-y painjobs, but so much clear smacked on the top that the texture of the surface is really smooth but its mostly on metallic paints, I spose its just how the factory paints em really quickly to get em off the assembly line aye crazy, the rocker cover is only on there so I could see if i wired it too tight, but the engine is meant to be a chevy big block, so im going to strip the chrome from them and fill in the letters. As for the thread, If someone could move it to the workbecnh that would be stellar, as i dont want to set fire to anything (im horrible with computers, I think i was born in the generation before the new breed of computer whiz-kids )
Eshaver Posted February 1, 2009 Posted February 1, 2009 Slowly when I was an employee at Earl Schieb, we were expected to tape and paint ten cars a day . As for metallic colors , what generally happens is thew guy shooting the paint dosen't keep the pain shooken up with in the gun as he is working with the paint . See, the aluminum particles actually will settle in the gum soon after you walk into the booth. The same and even more prone to problems is in Pearls and or Metalflakes too. With todays basecoat - clear coat paint , you really can do a slock job on the base as you sand it out with 1500 paper . The clear coat had better be decent as you don't get a second chance with that . Hey I hope this will help ya ! Ed Shaver
slowly Posted February 25, 2009 Author Posted February 25, 2009 Sorry Ed, I got your PM but never got around to replying to it but that is awesome advice, It'll help me fix that hotrod for sure Heres my latest endevour... using a fishtank with a side missing and a rusted out old 31 ford >
slowly Posted February 25, 2009 Author Posted February 25, 2009 Ok it is officially started, i put down a couple of layers of styrene to make sure it would fit nicely... then i dumped a tube load of filler on it! > http://s258.photobucket.com/albums/hh246/s...=Picture002.jpg
roadhawg Posted February 25, 2009 Posted February 25, 2009 I really kinda like that Prelude. I must be gettin' senile or somethin'........ After all this time I still dont get why you guys cant finish one model before moving on to the next, this just drives me insane. Absolutley! My thoughts exactly! Thats why I limit my projects to just a few. At the moment, I'm only working on: A Trumpeter 1963 Nova vert being converted to a 62...... A Revell 1964 Impala....being built pro-touring style..... A 1968 Plymouth GTX being converted from AMT 68 Road Runner..... A Polar Lights Herbie VW being built as a chopped fenderless Volksrod....... A Revell Austin Healey 100-6, factory stock....... And those are just the cars....in addition to the FOLLOWING projects: Fully detailed Monogram 1/32 Blue Thunder helicopter....... Revell 1/35 Bell 47 helicopter being built as N975B (75 Bravo) from the old "Whirlybirds" TV show....... Hasegawa 1/48 P-51D being built as an unlimited race plane....... Hobby Craft Bell 222 being built as a corporate executive helicopter....... Kitech 1/48 Airwolf........yes, Airwolf(See avatar)....... Heller 1/72 Aerospatiale Gazelle (what a P.O.S.!!!)being built as a civilian helicopter..... 1/72 Esci F-100D in U.S.A.F. Thunderbirds markings......... See? Just a few.
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