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Posted (edited)

I picked up this Dodge Dart in a group of kits that I bought because I could get them all for about $4 a kit. This particular kit and one more were missing the roll cage. But I also had two Jim Cushman Plymouth Dusters with roll cages. They are essentially the same kit with different is a bodies so I can use one of the roll cages from the Jim Cushman kit for this kit and still have one of each. The only thing that is missing from the roll cage in the Cushman kit is the head protection piece. I'm not much of a NASCAR fan anymore but I was back in the 90s and built several stock cars back then. 

I've painted this one with Tamiya Light Blue which isn't light blue, IMO.  The instructions indicate using Tamiya French Blue but I don't have any on that and I think this TS-26 is a better match to Petty Blue. I have taken the photo out of the light so the color is better represented. I rubbed it out this morning and then just added a couple of light coats of paint to cover the edges that I rubbed out. I don't think I will do anything else but add the decals. This is the sixth kit that I have painted without assembly to get ahead of the colder weather. But its supposed to rain tomorrow and a cold front is on its way. So I am going to go ahead and finish  this one. Thanks for looking! ?

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Edited by ModelcarJR
Correct title
Posted

Thanks, David! I'm glad you agree with me!

Here's what I've gotten done in the last couple of days. Finished the interior platform, built and installed the engine and built the front suspension. I didn't mount the fire extinguisher on the left side of the seat because it wouldn't clear the roll cage. I added square type valve covers with heat shields to make this engine look a little bit like a stock car engine, although there is not much that can be done with this engine. I had to shorten up the valve covers for this short block. I assembled the front suspension with the interior platform off and I'm glad I did. It was a real PITA putting the suspension together with few pins but flat surfaces to glue parts to. If it sits on all four wheels I will feel blessed. Thanks for looking! ?

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Posted

The chassis is complete and I really had to make some adjustments in order to get the front wheels inboard as far as possible. I removed the keepers on the spindles for the brake rotor and ditched the rotors. I shortened and thinned down the axle and removed the inner circle on the inner wheel.  This will have to do. 

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Posted

All the construction is done on this one.  The left side looks better than the right side in that the front wheel on the right sticks out a little more than the left. I noticed when assembling the right side front suspension that it was a bit wider than the left side. Maybe it's supposed to be that way. But there's no way to pull the tire in any further without cutting down the arm that holds the kingpin and then reassembling. Can't really do that as it would take a lot of work to strengthen it by drilling holes and using some wire to hold it together. So I am going to leave as is. Just some detailing and decals and it will be finished. I did add a window net from a window net kit from Scale model Speedway that I've had in the drawers since probably the 80s. It worked out pretty well. Thanks for looking! ?

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Posted (edited)
17 hours ago, ModelcarJR said:

All the construction is done on this one.  The left side looks better than the right side in that the front wheel on the right sticks out a little more than the left. I noticed when assembling the right side front suspension that it was a bit wider than the left side. Maybe it's supposed to be that way. But there's no way to pull the tire in any further without cutting down the arm that holds the kingpin and then reassembling.  Thanks for looking! ?

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Most short track cars run the RF out, the RR tucked in, the LR out and the LF tucked in. It's all about weight transfer for handling. And most classes I raced in, only allowed one inch difference in back spacing between wheels, so you do suspension and axle changes to set the wheels where they need to be. I know that's a dirt car in my pic, but you can see the offset on the wheels and suspension. Works the same on dirt as asphalt.

621fdd7d6a8cb.jpg

Edited by dwc43
Posted

Thanks, DW and Scott! I appreciate your comments! 

I found a photo of Richard Petty with this car and he was standing in a pose with his foot on top of the left front tire. So I removed the left front tire so that I could fix it to stick out beyond the fender a bit just like the right side tire. I had to break the king pin but I had another in the extra kit I have. So I now have both front tires sticking out a bit but not so much as maybe a gasser might be. I dullcoted the bumpers and trim on the windshield and back window trim, finished the decals and other detailing and now its done! Thanks for looking! ?

Oops! Forgot to paint the gas cap which I will do now! 

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  • ModelcarJR changed the title to Richard Petty's Dodge Dart -Late Model Sportsman
  • 1 month later...
Posted
Quote

Most short track cars run the RF out, the RR tucked in, the LR out and the LF tucked in. It's all about weight transfer for handling. And most classes I raced in, only allowed one inch difference in back spacing between wheels, so you do suspension and axle changes to set the wheels where they need to be. I know that's a dirt car in my pic, but you can see the offset on the wheels and suspension. Works the same on dirt as asphalt.

What they're doing with the wheel offsets is altering the car's thrust angle. The setup you describe is pointing the TA to the driver's right & is for dry-slick dirt tracks.

I'm pretty sure no one did this in the 1970's. 

I built the red white & blue Valiant Scamp & the Warren Stewart Dart as a kid in the late 1970's. Had no trouble with all 4 wheels touching ground.

  • 2 weeks later...
Posted

Your build looks excellent. I have one 7/8ths done and I left the track alone. It is a bit wide but it does look pretty cool.

Time to break it out and finish it. Thanks for the inspiration.

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