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Posted

Next up, something simple, well by comparison to the Lola T70…

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I'm building it straight out of the box, but not following the proper sequence as the instructions show because I wanted to see how the chain builds up.  I considered getting the detail-up kit for the chain, but I thought I'd try to stick with the true OOB spirit just in case it looks good enough... 

The kit provides a nice booklet of photos for reference and the instructions have detailed color call outs.  However the two don't match on every item so I'm using both as a guide.  The info for the chain falls in between the two.

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  • Like 2
Posted (edited)

Hi Mark,

This kit is, in my opinion, the best of Tamiya’s 1/6 scale bikes in terms of what you get in the box. I’ve built a few and still have a couple in the stash. Of course it’s Tamiya’s latest bike kit so it benefits from all the newest model making technology. I built the kit a couple of years ago and was particularly impressed with the rims and how delicate the spokes are moulded. I opted for the detail-up chain as I wanted the chain to move with the rotation of the rear wheel and in the end it looks far more realistic than the kit piece. The only detail I added to the build was the missing fluid level sight glass on the front brake fluid reservoir and the stencils on all the control switches on the handlebars.

If the kit has a short fall it’s the lack of data stencils for all the function switches on the handle bar controls. In 1/6th scale I think it’s an obvious omission as the details are large enough to notice especially with the kit already being so detailed. I used lots of bits and pieces of decal from multiple sources to make up the stencils. The symbol on the horn button was 3 separate bits of decal that came off a 1/72nd scale WW I German aircraft data stencil sheet!

 I hope you don’t mind me posting a photo of my build that shows the added data stencils.

Cheers,     
Wolf

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Edited by Wolf
  • Like 2
Posted

Thanks for the heads up Wolf.  I have no problem making additional decals and adhering to the out-of-the-box "limitations" I'm staying within.

 

 

The rims are two pieces affairs and fit very well, but there is still a fine but unwanted seam where the halves meet. 

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The color called out for the rims is Gold Leaf but I thought the anodized gold look in the reference photos looked cooler so I used Titanium Gold under Clear Yellow from the LP colors.

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The spokes after being painted.

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  • Like 1
Posted (edited)

Hi Mark,

With regards to the rims, eliminating the seam is a bit time consuming but not a big deal. Try carefully dry fitting the spokes though. When I went to install them I found the holes they go in to were slightly too small with the rims halves glued together. A bit of reaming out was trick.

I’m assuming you’re going with the white base color if doing the rims in anodized gold. I went with the red base but did the gold rims anyways because I think they looked way better than black. Just the way I would like it if I had the 1:1 bike.

Cheers,     
Wolf

Edited by Wolf
Posted

Yes, I had to ream the spoke holes, not big deal since I have a nice set of reamers.  I think the white version is the best looking of the three.  The silver version has no personality compared to the red or white.

 

The instructions on how to assemble the wheels is very detailed and specific even down to the cements to be used.  The jig that is provided to lace the wheels works great.

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They also instruct to use the same jig to install the tires; unfortunately it has three little ribs to center the rim that chipped the paint when I tried to install the front tire.  Since the spokes were cemented into the rim I had to repair the paint damage as an assembled unit, so I made cardstock mask and blended the two colors.

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I did not use the jig for the rear tire or for the front after I repaired the paint damage.  The tires fit without too much effort onto the rims.  I guess if you don't paint the rims the jig is a good idea for mounting the tires.

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  • Like 1
Posted

Like most motorcycle models I build, I do the brake rotors early on if not the very first thing.  Since these came pre-drilled all I had to do was paint them.  But that took a couple days with drying times.

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  • Like 3
Posted

Time to go to the beginning of the instructions and build on the engine.

I think I spent more time painting bolts than anything else and now I can see that some of the details will get covered by guards.

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Posted

The frame has been built up and painted.  I used the recommended colors and was pleasantly surprised at how the color, sheen and texture came out.

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The engine is a tight fit, but the instructions are clear on how to easily to twist it into place.

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Posted

Nicely done so far Mark,

This build definitely evokes a strong sense of deja-vu. This kit was definitely one of my very favourite builds. 
 

Cheers,    
Wolf

  • Like 1
Posted

I thought I should get some of the six "body" panels painted so they could be drying while I build other parts.  (I'm going to need the front fender soon.)   

TS-45 Pearl White over TS-26 Pure White.  I shot a coat of TS-13 Clear too.  Can't hurt before the decals…

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  • Like 1
Posted

Beautiful work so far, Mark.

Isn’t it a nice refreshing build where everything is relatively straight forward? No major modifications necessary, just paint, glue, and assemble. Tamiya sure delivered with this one.

Cheers,     
Wolf

  • Like 1
Posted

The kit provided masks for the tank work well.  They aren't die cut; they have to be hand cut by the builder.

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I airbrushed the LP equivalent of the TS Pearl Blue called out in the instructions.

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The tank decals fit fine, but be prepared to spend a good 30 minutes applying each one of these two.

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Posted

Great job on the tank paint! I appreciate the info on masking. I have one of these kits and all the things I'm reading are making my itchy to get it out.

  • Like 1

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