45calibermodel Posted February 18, 2009 Share Posted February 18, 2009 So this only my second post and im getting ready to start my next project. It is a Mustang II Pro Stocker kit from mpc named Fire Fighter. So far it seems like a ok kit but it is missing some stuff, like one set of headers and something else I'm forgetting. I want to make my own headers though. Any suggestions on what material or techniques to use? Also It came with a gutted interior with molded rivets but I was thinking about re-doing it in some type of aluminum. I know my dad use to use old beer or soda cans to make his tub wells but it is to hard to get flat without leaving marks for me. Any suggestions on materials or trick to that. Last but not least where can i find braided fuel lines and those blue and red fittings, my hobby shop doesn't carry much. Or better yet is there something I could take apart to find something similar to use? Sorry for all the questions at one time just wanted to get them all out of the way. Thanks, Bryan Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LDO Posted February 18, 2009 Share Posted February 18, 2009 For headers, you might try solder that is the right size. It bends easily. For aluminum tubs, try sheet styrene and paint it with Testors Metalizer paints. If you want rivets, they are available from hobby shops that sell trains. I have a bunch of different sizes made by Tichy. Grandt Line also make scale rivets. I don't know where to get braided lines and anodized fitting. Try ebay. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
crazyjim Posted February 18, 2009 Share Posted February 18, 2009 Rick over at Scale Dreams has all of it - and he has a 14% off sale going on right now. scaledreams.com. Tell him Jim Stepanek sent you over. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
45calibermodel Posted February 18, 2009 Author Share Posted February 18, 2009 Thanks you guys. I checked out scale dreams and he has a ton. Still want to do this on the cheap side though. The less I have to buy or order the better, but still thanks for the em-put guys. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jairus Posted February 18, 2009 Share Posted February 18, 2009 How old are you and how long have you been building models? Even if you are experienced, going the aluminum route is still a huge technological hurdle that requires lots of care to not ruin the material. Especially if it is really thin aluminum such as that pop cans are made from! All you need to do is accidentally bend a carefully formed piece just test fitting the body and you will know what I mean. You cannot straighten it again without a crease showing. Not to mention attachment... what are you going to stick the aluminum to the model with? Model glue? That will NOT work. With aluminum you have to use good quality epoxy and rough up the attachment surface with sand paper or it will not adhere. I suggest you go with the sheet styrene (plastic from the hobby shop) and paint it later. More forgiving and easier to work with... and stronger joints. You cannot think of always using free stuff unless you are limited to the income of a paper-route or weekly allowance. Besides, testors metalic paints replicate the actual look of burnished aluminum as long as you spray it with an airbrush. As for the headers. I tried solder back when I was 12 and it worked for me. But I only did it once. My material of choice today is copper electrical wire. #12 or #14 seems to work well. Easy to bend and solders together for a strong assembly and clean joints. I would also drill mounting holes into the heads and insert the wire for a tight fit in order to avoid the problem of trying to surface glue a heavy metallic object to a plastic part. It usually falls off... Good luck and keep us informed on the progress. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
george 53 Posted February 18, 2009 Share Posted February 18, 2009 Brian, if you REALLY need to use a aluminum, try the little squares (about 5x5) used for flashing on roofs. It's small enough to work with, it's a lot easier to get smooth and flat, an it's CHEEP!!! about 6 cents a square. ANY good roofing supply stoer will have them, and if you tell them why you need it, they MIGHT even give you a few peices. Jair is right, to use pop cans, you have to anneal the metal by heating it up to the point where it starts to unroll and lay flat. TOO much work! the flashing idea works MUCH better! Just wipe the primer off them with some thinner, and they'll even come out real nice and shiney, just like aluminum! Hope you can use this. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
VW Dave Posted February 18, 2009 Share Posted February 18, 2009 (edited) Solder works well for header, because it's very workable; I've hit upon another useful material, however, which is equally user friendly as solder....and lighter weight to boot. Michaels craft stores carry 'armature wire,' which is used in sculpting; it's soft, shiny aluminum, and comes in at least 3 different sizes. Here's a roll of the largest size on the hook at the store for reference: It also comes in straight sections, packaged in sturdy clear plastic tubes. The existing finish is very presentable, and IMO it looks like the aluminum/ceramic coating done by PHC & Jet-Hot; I'm sure it could be polished out to look more like chrome if the builder were so inclined, but I prefer the Jet-Hot finish(like on my 1:1 VW exhausts). The closest Michaels store keeps this product near embossing and sculpting products, but other stores may do it differently....don't ever be afraid to ask someone while there. I did the headers on my VW-powered "V bucket" with a smaller size of the wire, and I used aluminum tubing for the collectors: I'd recommend epoxy to secure the material, as it won't 'fog' the surface like CA can....a couple small spots on the above headers can attest to that. I drilled holes matching the size of the exhaust parts where they would be mounted, and the ends are set in about 1/16" for added strength. Edited February 18, 2009 by VW Dave Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
45calibermodel Posted February 18, 2009 Author Share Posted February 18, 2009 Thanks for all of theses awesome ideas guys. As in response to JAIRUS I am 24 and have been building models off and on since I was like 10 but it has always been strictly what was in the kit and using whatever testors paints and glues I could find at k-mart or walmart. This is the first time I'm really going to step out of the box. Also I am working on a paper boys paycheck as I was laid off in December and have yet to find a new job. I'm a steel fabricator so working with a aluminum can is not a problem just wondering if there was something easier or more commonly used in model building. I think I am going to check out those aluminum flashing squares GEORGE was talking about, and as for the headers it seems like I keep hearing solder so i think I'm going to try and mock some up. Anyone have any advice on which epoxy is best to use? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Harry P. Posted February 18, 2009 Share Posted February 18, 2009 Don't try to replicate aluminum panels with real aluminum... it's way too labor intensive and not worth the hassle. Use either thin sheet styrene or acetate sheet. Use Testors Metalizer aluminum paint to give it the look of aluminum. Much easier to work with styrene or acetate sheet. Styrene sheet, of course, can be glued with regular styrenen cement, acetate sheet with CA (superglue) or epoxy. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Blue coyote Posted February 18, 2009 Share Posted February 18, 2009 If you end up damaging any of the parts from the kit and need to replace them (including the missing headers) just shoot me a PM. I think I have 5 or 6 of the Firefighter kit, one of them still sealed. One of the good things about being a niche modeller is having lots of specialized spare parts... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
torinobradley Posted February 18, 2009 Share Posted February 18, 2009 I have used the aluminum wire they use to connect the houses with the main trunk line. These are the thick black covered main power lines. I strip them and unwind the cores. It's a lot of fun making block-hugging headers that route around all the bits and pieces. At construction sites, they usually have a few lenths left over after connecting the main power. I also have som bonsai forming wire that seems about the right size and is easier to bend. But that stuff is rather expensive, not to mention, hard to find. There are lots of how to's on making headers from plastic, solder and many other materials. Just find the one thats right for you. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
45calibermodel Posted February 19, 2009 Author Share Posted February 19, 2009 I would just like to thank all of you guys again for the response i have got to this post. I can not wait for the day that i know as much as you guys to give this advice to someone else. However against most of the advice given I am using real aluminum for my interior. The closest hobby shop to me is 45min away and the little mom and pops hardware down the road had very thin step flashing for $0.19 a piece. It is going ok so far. A bit time consuming but its working. I probable could have gotten better results with the styrene but this will do for my first major custom attempt lol. I am also going to try mocking up some headers but haven't got that far yet. I will post a pic on here of the guts when I finish the aluminum tonight. P.S. Has anyone heard of DUCO model glue? If so how well does it work? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dryvr12 Posted February 22, 2009 Share Posted February 22, 2009 (edited) For the solder that everyone uses, what do you pay for it? Cuz ive seen it (i tihnk like a yard of it) for $4, but a whole roll for $8 or $9! Edited February 22, 2009 by dryvr12 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pibull63 Posted May 4, 2009 Share Posted May 4, 2009 for headers i use aluminum welding wire, you can also use it for rollbars. for braided lines i use solder and roll a file over it. looks just like braided lines. remember to seal off the ends. i use clear fingernail polish Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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