Rattle can lacquer finish questions

[StevenGuthmiller]

24 minutes ago, bobthehobbyguy said:

True but duplicolor Lacquer coats are thin and if you consistently are burning through to color then one needs a couple more coats. That way if you start seeing color then you know you are through that clear.

True.

And I don’t think you’re ever going to get the “dipped” look with Duplicolor clear.

It’s just not the nature of the beast.

I usually use about 5 coats.

Seams to be about the perfect balance.

Enough to protect for polishing, yet not enough to start covering detail.

 

Steve

[StevenGuthmiller]

On 6/6/2023 at 12:55 PM, shucky said:

Not sure why someone would BS another modeler when they were trying to help them, but whatever.

Happens all the time.

All one has to do is visit a couple of Facebook groups and read through a few threads to see that there are an awful lot of people offering advice that shouldn't be.

 

Someone will ask for instruction on a particular subject, and invariably he'll get a couple hundred responses.

With a little investigation it can become obvious pretty quickly that a lot of the guidance given is something that the respondents themselves haven't even mastered.

I wouldn't go so far as to say that they're trying to BS anybody, but I personally wouldn't take any direction from anybody that's not willing to back up their recommendations with some photographic evidence.

Trying to help is only helpful if it helps.

 

 

 

Steve

 

Edited June 9, 2023 by StevenGuthmiller

[atomicholiday]

Interesting.   Both the Pintera and Camaro were both shot with just three coats.   That's probably why I burned through on the Camaro.  Lesson learned. 

One difference between the two is the amount of water used in the wet sanding process.   With the Camaro, I just dipped the pads and started sanding, so there was a lot of water on the model surface. 

But on the Pintera, I dabbed most of the water off the pads, leaving them just damp enough to still have a lubricating effect.   In my mind,  this should allow me to see color on the pads if I go through the clear coat.   Thanks for that tip Steve.   

Of course,  I was also being much more careful around the edges too. 

Edited June 9, 2023 by atomicholiday

[atomicholiday]

On 5/31/2023 at 12:38 PM, StevenGuthmiller said:

 

But at this point, I give it at least one, maybe 2 more applications of Turtle Wax "scratch and swirl remover".

I've found that this product will really bring up the shine to a high luster.

 

Steve

 

Do they still make this stuff?  I’m thinking Turtle Wax either changed the formula or put it in a different bottle.

[StevenGuthmiller]

3 hours ago, atomicholiday said:

Do they still make this stuff?  I’m thinking Turtle Wax either changed the formula or put it in a different bottle.

That’s a good question.

And one that I can’t answer.

I’ve been using the same bottle for the past 20 years. ?

 

 

Steve

[jacko]

I have never used a rattlecan on a model (I'm really a ship modeler).  I decided to try Steve Guthmiller's spray everything in one go technique on the Revell XKE coupe which is molded in red. I was able to get duplicolor dark blue pearl 8P4 ( a Toyota color but close enough for this project) and duplicolor 1K clear, but they did not have Duplicolor primer, so I took what was available which is Rustoleum Primer-Sealer 249321. I especially wanted the sealer feature due to the red plastic, altho bleed thru is probably not a major problem with dark blue paint.

My first pass on the hood resulted in some runs, even tho I tried to make a very quick pass both starting and ending off the model. I did all of the red parts with 3 coats and decided to stop there, let it dry, and sand out the runs on the hood (tho they self-leveled to an amazing degree). I found the learning curve for spray cans is very quick and after a few passes I could do fairly light coats.

The reason I am posting this is to let everybody know that this Rustoleum primer after 48 hrs. has NOT resulted in any damage to the plastic, even with my unintentional very heavy first coat. I also tested the primer on the cream colored sprue for the interior with no damage.

Thanks, John

[ctruss53]

47 minutes ago, jacko said:

I have never used a rattlecan on a model (I'm really a ship modeler).  I decided to try Steve Guthmiller's spray everything in one go technique on the Revell XKE coupe which is molded in red. I was able to get duplicolor dark blue pearl 8P4 ( a Toyota color but close enough for this project) and duplicolor 1K clear, but they did not have Duplicolor primer, so I took what was available which is Rustoleum Primer-Sealer 249321. I especially wanted the sealer feature due to the red plastic, altho bleed thru is probably not a major problem with dark blue paint.

My first pass on the hood resulted in some runs, even tho I tried to make a very quick pass both starting and ending off the model. I did all of the red parts with 3 coats and decided to stop there, let it dry, and sand out the runs on the hood (tho they self-leveled to an amazing degree). I found the learning curve for spray cans is very quick and after a few passes I could do fairly light coats.

The reason I am posting this is to let everybody know that this Rustoleum primer after 48 hrs. has NOT resulted in any damage to the plastic, even with my unintentional very heavy first coat. I also tested the primer on the cream colored sprue for the interior with no damage.

Thanks, John

Hey John,

Something I have found that works really well when a kit is molded in a loud color like red and you want to change the color without bleed through, is silver paint.

When I kit is molded in red and I want to change the color, I used silver paint as a base instead of primer. I don't know why it works, but the silver paint really cancels out the red plastic.