ctruss53

It isn't luck. I have done it over and over. Maybe it has to do with my application technique. I build up the clearcoat with light coats. Then apply one heavy coat at the end.

Yes, and I did stop talking about Shapeways. The conversation transitioned to the cost pf parts files. This thread is about 3D printed parts. And all threads flow with the conversation. I don't think any of us are doing anything wrong here, but thank you for calling me out as the problem.

I am talking about a part file that is on Shapeways or Cults3D. It should be very cheap because you make it once and then resell it over and over again. Now a high quality part file that is being LICENSED to a 3D printer like yourself should have a high price because there is only one transaction. There is a difference.

I use Mr Super Clear UV Cut gloss clear from Mr Hobby. It is a lacquer, and I can't explain the chemistry, but it has worked over everything I have sprayed it on. Having said that I have not applied it over enamels, because I don't use them. But it works over acrylic and lacquer paints. And it also works over decals.

What? A parts file should cost more than a part? You can't be serious.

And I am sorry I am so triggered by the Shapeways subject. It is a rip-off. I'll leave it there. If you want a 3D part file, use Cults3D or Thingiverse to find them, and then either print the file yourself, or find a printing service. It will cost much less that way, and you can get your parts faster. I will list off my favorite 3D parts sellers again, just to put everything in one post. If you are specifically looking for Euro or JDM parts, your best options are: White Chocolate - limited selection, but they cater to euro and JDM almost exclusively Scale Stars - pretty good selection of transkits, and wheels. And they do mostly JDM stuff Street Blisters - Limited selection, mainly JDM stuff ZoomOn - this company does a lot of JDM transkits and full kits. Plus they have parts and wheels Now if you are looking for mainstream 3D printed parts like engines, transmissions, chassis, and suspensions. Here are my top picks: Iceman - he is great. tons of parts to choose from, and he is always adding new things. I check his website out first for anything 3D printed. He is also on ebay. Juan4you on ebay - He is a great seller. He has great selection. And he has a few things that not everyone has. I frequently buy from him. And then search ebay for things you are having trouble finding. There are tons of 3D printed parts on ebay, including 1:18 scale diecast parts sellers. And if you find something but it is the wrong scale you can contact them and ask them to print it out in the scale you need. Most of the time they will do it. I hope this helps.

Not trying to beat a dead horse here. But the way people respond it's like you don't fully understand what I have said. I am not trying to say people selling parts files on Shapeways should not be compensated. I understand there is time and effort involved in designing parts. I do it for a living. And I am not saying Shapeways is a scam. But it is a horrible business model. What I am saying is a part file should not cost the same as a printed part. Example: If I go on Shapeways, a transmission part file is like $6. But I can buy the same transmission, already printed from Iceman for that same price. The part file should cost much less than the printed part because Shapeways does all the work of printing it out and they charge for their services. And since the designer is charging printed part prices for their file, and then Shapeways is charging for the printing, you basically pay twice. Then add in all the fees and you pay 3-4 times the price. I don't understand where people are getting the idea that I think files on Shapeways should be free. I never said that. All I am trying to say is a part file should not be priced the same as an actual printed part from a place that sells parts. I have explained this several times, and it is clear to me that nobody seems to understand. So I'll stop. Ok, I'll give you an example of a great business model. Cults3D. On Cults3D the higher quality files require payment. And if you look, the prices are reasonable. Like I can get an engine file for a couple bucks, when it would cost $25 or so from a 3D parts seller. So I pay my $2-$5 for the file and then I have the file and can find a way to print it out. I could even go to Shapeways and have them print it out and pay all their fees. The point is I am paying a reasonable price for the file. https://icemancollections.com/

Use silver paint instead of primer. I can't explain why, but silver really "mutes" dark plastic.

You are wrong. And you don't know when to stop. Keep on digging.

Where did I say it was easy? You quoted me and still I never said it was easy. And yes, anyone can learn how to do it. All it takes is time. And here is another reason to buy from Iceman. You seem to lack the understanding that when you post on here you are representing your business. Insulting and trolling other members is only going to drive away business. https://icemancollections.com/

Good point. It might not remove the epoxy putty, but it could be absorbed. I didn't think of that.

Posts like this are why I order from Iceman instead of you. I never said 3D printing was easy. But just like anything out there, anyone can do it if they put in the time to learn how.

My guess is that epoxy putty's should not be effected by paint strippers. They are an epoxy, not a lacquer or acrylic-based material. But testing would be best.

To the people making the arguement that you can use some lacquers over enamels. Not to insult the original post person, but that user is having trouble finding bottles of paint, and it is pretty clear to me they have a very novice understanding of paint in general. So I spoke in absolutes in order to help them avoid possible mistakes. As a general rule, you should not apply lacquer paints or clears over enamels. Odds are the lacquer will be to "hot" and react with the enamel. Are there some lacquer products that will work on enamels, sure. But the OP seems to know very little about the topic, so it is best to tell them it won't work, and to test spray first. I have included a chart that is a great starting point. As Steve and others have said, there are always exceptions, but in most cases, this chart works. A perfect example of an exception to the rule: The chart says acrylics work as a top coat over enamels. However, Tamiya acrylics like lacquer thinners for airbrushing. Thin a Tamiya acrylic with lacquer thinner and it very well might not work over an enamel. Another example: The chart says you can't topcoat an acrylic with a lacquer. I topcoat Tamiya acrylics with Mr Hobby lacquer clear all the time and I have never had a problem.

Don't get me started on the Shapeways rip off. I hate Shapeways. You pay someone for a design, then you pay again to get it printed. Oh, but if you want it printed sometime this year you pay more. And then you pay other fees and finally you pay too much for shipping. It is ridiculous. The part design prices are already just as expensive as 3D printed parts sellers like Iceman are charging. Then you pay all those fees. Next thing you know a nitrous bottle costs you like $45. Now, if I went to Shapeways with my own design, that would cut out one of the expenses. But their turn around time is slower than a snail. Once I come up with some designs, I will find someone that can print faster than Shapeways, and for less. Or I'll take some time and learn how to print. It can't be that hard. I just haven't taken the time to learn it.

White Chocolate is a great source for some euro stuff. But their selection is limited. Iceman has some parts that would work in euro or JDM settings, but most of their stuff is more for American subjects and hot rods. Juan4you on ebay also has a few things that would suit foreign subjects, but again, most offerings are for American subjects and hot rods. Ebay in general is a great resource. I have found VW engines on there from random people. Scale Stars is a great resource for JDM. They have transkits for several popular JDM models, plus some universal fit type stuff. Street Blisters and ZoomOn are also great resources. Not the greatest selection, but they seem to specialize in euro and JDM subject matter. And I am running into a similar problem. I build mainly foreighn vehicles and the 3D printed parts offerings are somewhat lacking. I am actually thinking about designing my own parts at this point. I suck at the printing part though, so I need to figure out how to get my designs printed out.

Bondo works great and they sell a smaller spot filler putty. But it has a strong odor. I started a thread about finding the right putty and got some unexpected results. First, I also do not like the lacquer-based putties that are sold by Tamiya and Mr Hobby. They are great because you can buy them in small portions, but they have a strong odor, and they shrink really bad. And they are not suitable for creating new material, like extending a part. They are weak. My first discovery was a 2 part epoxy putty I saw someone use on youtube. They used the Tamiya two part epoxy putty. I couldn't find any locally. Even Amazon sellers were in China, so I looked for something else. I ended up buying something from Green Stuff World, but it cured flexible. And it didn't bond to the plastic. In the thread I created people told me to use CA glue and micro bubbles as a filler. Micro bubbles are hard to buy in small quantities, so I looked for other options. On Amazon you can buy nail sculpting and filling powder. This is a fine powder that you mix into a thick CA glue. It thickens the CA glue so you can build with it. I used this nail powder in slow curing CA glue with success. I was able to do some sculpting with the mix. It sands and shapes well. And you can scribe panel lines in it. Another product I found that I like is Apoxie Sculpt. It is a two part epoxy putty that has a 1-3 hour working time, cures in a day, and is a little easier to sand and shape after it is cured than the CA and powder mix. Hope this helps.

Honestly, if you use X or XF series paint from Tamiya, you can thin them with water. about 1:1. Someone will come in here and tell me I am wrong, but I have done it for years without a problem. Having said that, I would not use water to thin clear. I would use their acrylic thinner. Tamiya makes that. Another option would be to try Createx gloss clear. Createx is an acrylic paint line. But again, I don't know how it will act on enamel. Mission Models is a new line of paint. But they are also acrylic. And then like I said above, Splash 2k clear would probably work.

Search for "Tamiya x series gloss clear" You will need to thin it. It is not airbrush ready. And since you are going to shoot it over enamel, use the Tamiya acrylic thinner. I'm sorry, but how are you having such a hard time with finding jars of paint? Another confusing thing is Tamiya acrylics are labeled as acrylic lacquers, because they have some solvent in them. They are synthetic and not 100% water based. Just remember that Tamiya X and XF jars of paint are acrylic..

Mittagskind beat me to it. Suzuki Cappuccino. I think Aoshima might make a kit of that car.

If you get some 2k gloss clear from Splash Paints, that might work on top of enamel. The 2k clear is a type of epoxy and it doesn't really react with anything. I use 2k clear on top of nearly everything. But I don't use enamel paints, so I can't say I have tried that yet. There are two big cautions with 2k clear though. Test on a spare part or spoon that has enamel paint on it, just to be sure it will not react. The other caution is that enamel paint has to cure for a loooooooong time before you clearcoat it. Like stated above, a month in a dehydrator, or maybe 6-8 weeks air drying. Enamels don't cure very fast at all.

DO NOT APPLY LACQUER OVER ENAMEL

Is what a gloss or clear coat?

One more note. Mr Hobby Mr Leveling Thinner also works really well in Tamiya X and XF acrylic paints as well.

Very impressive work. I am a Mechanical Designer by trade. I work in Solidworks and Siemens NX every day, all day. But neither of those programs handle complex surfaces very well. So car bodies are very tough to do in those programs, at least without surfacer add-ons, which I don't have. I downloaded Blender and I am trying to use that. But it works so much differently than the 3D modeling programs I am used too. I am really struggling. You seem to have your skills honed pretty well. I like what you are building. And I look forward to seeing what else you come up with.