ctruss53

I just stuck a random web address into every spot on my profile to get that 50% complete message to go away.

I wouldn't go so far as to say they were always sold here. They were not "actively" sold in America, but companies could buy them as campus vehicles direct from the manufacturer, or through fleet programs. Many states have laws against them being used on highways, but they are legal for use on regular streets in most states. It's the highways where the main restriction comes in to play. I have several friends that own them here in Minnesota. They just can't go on the highways. Use is unrestricted otherwise. And they also follow the 20 year rule for most of the United States, just like other JDM cars. They are nearly impossible to title if they are newer than 20 years old.

WOW that is pretty crazy. Ace probably has the best advice. Good luck.

Bingo. This is why I use the Iwata Eclipse. I love that large floating needle seat.

That isn't saying much. I tried several different chrome paints and Spaz Stix was not very good.

OOOOOOOO

I followed up on an order. Kris replied right away with an approximate ship date. Which left this morning. I can't wait to get these parts?

These look like incredible models. But $1600?????

Thanks for the info. So can you apply it over bare plastic? Or does it need to have paint on it?

Ace, I just did a search for that stuff. But I didn't find anything about proper use. What can you tell me about that stuff? And how to use it?

Like Dave said. Clear coat technique can differe based on primer and paint. HOWEVER I use Mr Super Clear UV Cut gloss clearcoat, or Splash 2K clearcoat. And I have yet to run into an acrylic or lacquer paint that these two clearcoats do not get along with. As for technique. I never sand between coats. I prime, paint, and clearcoat, then do all my sanding and polishing afterwards. The only exception to this is if some garbage falls in the finish. I'll sand it out and recoat as needed, then move on to the next step. And for applying clearcoat, I use the same technique no matter what clearcoat I am applying. This technique works for me. The first coat is a very light dust coat. Then I wait 5 minutes and spray on another light coat, but not quite as light as that first one. And then the 3rd coat is light like the 2nd one. I build up the clear slowly. 3 light coats with 5 minutes between coats. After the 3 light coats then I apply a wet coat. Not super heavy, but wet enough that it leaves you with a pretty smooth, glossy finish. If it is a race car, I'll usually stop there. But if it is a show car I'll wait 10-15 minutes and then add another really wet coat. Like just to the point where it almost runs. This gives me extra coating to wet sand and polish out. After I apply all the clear, I let the model sit and cure for at least a week. Sure, it is dry to the touch in a couple hours, and can be handled a day later, but it isn't fully cured for at least a few days. I round up to a week just to be sure. And if I really want to polish it out to a super high glos, I sometimes even let it sit a month before I polish it out. Hope this helps.

Oh, its a film, not a paint? Interesting.

Very well done. What did you use on the headlight and taillight lenses? Like what brand of paint? Did you thin it out so it was still transparent? Or was the paint like that already?

From what I could find, Revell's chrome spray paint is an acrylic. But based on other brands of acrylic, this could mean it is an acrylic and a lacquer. From my understand though, I thought most chrome paints are actually some sort of ink. I could be wrong. And I don't know if that means they are something different from paint completely. Regardless. Revell chrome spray paint is far too expensive. And I have had great results with SMS Hyperchrome. So I won't even bother with that Revell stuff.

Sure you can. Bubble wrap the spray can, put it in a box, and ship it. Nobody has to know what is in the box. I know a paint company that ships all their products standard. They are not marked hazardous, or anything. Standard shipping. But to answer your question, decanted spray paint will last for years in a jar. As long as it is still a liquid, you can shake it up and spray it.

It sounds like you waited long enough. But that sure looks like the paint wasn't fully cured before you put tappe over it. So I don't know what to tell you.

I have heard good things about that airbrush as well. The problem is after using many different airbrushes, I have gone back to the Iwata Eclipse because it is a unique design. It has a floating cone-shaped needle seat. This allows you to assemble, and disassemble the airbrush without tools. And the floating cone-shaped seat is easier to clean.

Alclad makes a brass. I have not tried it yet. I do like their metal finishes that I have used though.

I just brush Tamiya Panel Line Paint over the whole thing. It settles into the recesses and seams and gives the engine a nice used look.

They should be able to work with the PPG 12949, and that picture of the paint sample, and a picture of the car. I know Splash Paints has done a stellar job matching paints just from a picture of the car.

Bad news is I can't find anyone that has PPG 12949. HAHAHA

I did even more digging. That first color I posted, the PPG 12949 crosses over to UK Ford code BY.

Yeah, I looked back at your pics to verify. I am pretty sure thtat Light Blue is the right color. Plus, if you ask the real scale nerds around here, you are technically supposed to use paints that are ever so slightly lighter than the real color because of some scale effect mumbo jumbo.

I kept googling to make sure I gave you the right info. Here is another source that confirms PPG 12949 Light Blue is the color. This source is 1962 and 1963 Cortina factory color choices.

You must hone your Google-Fu skills. haha Here is the PPG color for UK Fords in 1962. Show this to Zero Paints, and send them a picture of the car. They can mix you up a batch.