ctruss53

In your particular case, I would invest in an airbrush. If you are on a budget, you can order the Iwata NEO system with a mini compressorfor less than $100. Or you can find a cheap compressor and get a cheap chinese airbrush on Amazon for like $25. Either route should get you a paint system for under $100. Then once you have an airbrush you can apply literally anything. Tamiya has an LP series of paints and primers that are available in small jars so you should be able to order them online. You can thin these with any lacquer thinner available locally in a hardeware store. Also in the UK you should have access to Zero Paints. They make high quality airbrush paints. They have a large variety of colors, and can also mix up any color you want. Like that original Cornita color. I would also contact Splash Paints. They are in Oregon, USA, but he might be able to ship to you. Splash paints are my preferred paint. He has 1k epoxy primers that work with models, He has tons of colors available, and he will also mix up any color you want. He also sells 2k epoxy clear which is an excellent product. But Tamiya TS spray can clear, and LP clearcoats work as well. Long story short. I know you have been looking for advice on what to do with your old, and rare kit. And all I can advise is to do whatever you can to find products designed to work with models. Ask around and find out who can ship to you. Another approach that you have started trying is testing. BUT, maybe if you did some research online you could find exactly what that model kit is molded out of. Buy some of that material, and test other products untill youu find something that works. I just don't want to see you ruint that kit with Rustoleum products. Sure, some people are using those products with some success. But they are not designed for scale models and if you do enough searching you will find so many more failures then the few success stories. Because those products only work if you use them just right. Good luck.

I skipped over all the arguement. Here are a few approaches to dulling chrome parts. 1. If you just need to accent seams or add a little detail to bright chrome parts, just apply some panel line paint. Panel Line Paint will darken seams and make chrome parts "pop." 2. If you need to dull the shine of chrome parts as a whole, apply semi-gloss or matt clearcoat. Mr Hobby makes excellent spray can clearcoats called Mr Super Clear. This clearcoat is availble in gloss, semi-gloss, and matte. Even the matte clear is not super flat, so this might be your best option, however I would test the semi-gloss and the matte clears on spare chrome parts or sprues first. 3. The third option is chrome paints. People are going to disagree with this, but nearly all chrome paints do not turn out like bright chrome. I can tell you from experience. I have tried nearly all the chrome paints, and they all come out dull when compared to chrome plating. So to do this method, strip the chrome plating, then apply gloss black paint with a spray can, or airbrush, so you can get a smooth gloss black finish. Then apply your chrome paint of choice. Alclad, or Green Stuff World with an airbrush, or Spaz Stix or Revell spray cans. Any of them will give you a shiny chrome finish, but the finish will be duller than the chrome plating. If this chrome paint finish is still brighter than you wanted, you can apply a GLOSS clearcoat. This will maintain the shine, but decrease the reflectivity. The chrome paints to avoid because it gets closest to actual chrome is SMS Hyperchrome. If you use this stuff properly it actually nearly duplicates chrome. Having said all this, there are also two places that make chrome burnishing powder. C1 and Uschi van der Rosten. There could be other brands out there, but these are the two I know of. Chrome burnishing powders give the most realisting metal finish I have ever found. You paint your parts gloss black. Then when the paint is cured you rub in this powder and it gives a very realistic chrome finish. I have used these powders and I have not been able to get a finish as bright as chrome plating, but the results were pretty bright, very reflective, and I would consider them a very close match to a realistic polished metal finish.

Tangent tip. If you want tto reduce your chances of CA Fog, do not apply glue right from the bottle. Put a couple drops on a scrap sheet of plastic, or something that won't absorb the glue. Let the glue sit for a bit, 10-20 second should be fine. Then dip a toothpick or CA glue applicator into the glue and apply the glue with that. Doing this basically gases out the CA glue and in most cases can eliminate fog. I use CA glue to glue in windows by doning this and I don't have fogging issues.

I really wish people would stop using Rustoleum priimers and paints on their scale models. Every day I come into this forum and see people having problems with those products on their models. Because they are not designed for scale models. Have any of you noticed how rare it is to see threads about problems with paints designed for scale model use, like Tamiya TS spray paints, Tamiya Primer, and Mr Hobby products. And when you do see threads where people have problems with these products, it is nearly always user error? I just wanted to poiint that out.

Have you tried contacting the store you bought it from? Sometimes the seller will take back kits as defective and replace them. And if you explain that you only bought the second one to fix the first one, then they should take them both back. If Revell doesn't reply, and the seller won't help you, I would dispute the charge on your credit card. Yeah, this might get me grief from the goody two shoes on the forum, but I don't tolerate paying for something that doesn't deliver. You paid for a kit, twice, and you still don't have a whole kit of sufficient quality. Demand a solution.

I usually just take the Tamiya acrylic paints I use to paint all my parts and mix up the engine colors myself. Engine colors were never exactly the same from year to year, so I'll just find a photo and mix up something close.

I would not be concerned at all. Just use it.

I don't know about Toyota V8's, but I know several people make the 2JZ Twin Turbo inline 6.

I love MAD parts. I just wish communication was better.

Hey John, Something I have found that works really well when a kit is molded in a loud color like red and you want to change the color without bleed through, is silver paint. When I kit is molded in red and I want to change the color, I used silver paint as a base instead of primer. I don't know why it works, but the silver paint really cancels out the red plastic.

Ace covered it, but I was going to come in here and just say grab a 1930 Ford kit. They are so close to a '31, I don't think it would matter.

I also like to let my paint work sit for a while. My main primer, Tamiya or Mr Surfacer, is usually cured enough in 30-60 minutes. I'll sometimes wait a day though just to make sure. Color coat depends on the paint. Tamiya spray cans I will let sit for 24 hours. I like to use Splash Paints as well. Those are ready for clearcoat in a couple hours. And then clearcoat. This is where I give it plenty of time to cure. I wait 3 days MINIMUM if I am in a hurry. I like to let the clearcoat cure as long as possible though. A week or more. You can't let your clearcoat cure too long. And the longer you let it cure the better it will polish out.

I use large fan shaped make up brushes. You can get them pretty much anywhere. Target, Walmart, Walgreens, and probably the dollar store as well.

That is very possible. I like to apply clear coats with 2-3 very light coats with just 3-5 minutes between coats, to build up an even tacky finish. Then I apply 1-3 wet coats. This process can create a little bit of orange peel, but I always polish my clearcoats, so this doen't bother me. I'll remove the orange peel and then polish it out. This finish is clear coat from a spray can. Mr Super Clear UV Cut from Mr Hobby. I love this stuff. And this is before polish. (don't mind the spots, that was garbage that landed after it was cured.) EDIT: Sorry, this is after polish I think.

That is the strange thing about Tamiya panel line pait. It is an enamel, but I have never had a problem with it reacting to other types of paint like an enamel should. Having said that, I use Tamiya panel line paint for panel lines and on engines to make them look a little grungy. It works great. And the best part, you use it in such small amounts that the bottle is practically a lifetime supply. And like Robert said. Use it on gloss surfaces. It will stain flat finishes. So if your model is flat, spray a light gloss coat, use the panel liner, and then apply a matte coat.

That is what I thought. Since you are not thinning it, I don't think your problem has to do with the product itself.

Primers are usually pretty safe. If you are concerned about the paint coming out well on an old and rare kit though, I would very highly suggest getting hobby primers and paints. Tamiya makes a great white primer, and they sell a very similar blue in the TS spray paint line. I am not saying you bought the wrong paint. However I am saying that if you get Tamiya primer and spray paint you will greatly improve your chance at a great paint job.

I recently got a new job and the commute is kind of a long one. Well, long for me anyways. About 25 miles each way. My current vehicle is a 2013 Toyota Highlander. I'm probably going to trade it in for something a little smaller and better on gas.

I don't think this is the problem though. He shouldn't be thinning it, he is just decanting it.

If it is a non-metallic color, I would mask off the whole fender, sand it with like 800 or 1000. Then repaint. If it is a metallic I would probably strip and start over.

It has been covered. Fisheyes don't really have anything to do with the product. They are a result of contamination on the surface. I mainly came in here to add how I prevent them. I have a container of isopropoal alcohol wipes. You can get them in the pharmacy section at all of the big stores like Target, Walmart, and probably even in grocery stores that have a pharmacy section as well. I'd use a lint free cloth and alcohol, like Ace. But I like that I can pull out a wipe and get to cleaning. I think in the grand scheme of things they are about 30 cents per wipe. And I know 30 cents seems to be a lot of money around here. But I don't mind the price.

Holy s*** that guy is good.

I don't bother with enamels. I mean enamels are fine, they just take forever to dry. I tend to use lacquers on the car body, mainly because when I buy specialty colors from MCW or Splash, they sell them to me as lacquer and they are ready to shoot in an airbrush. But I aso really like Tamiya TS spray cans. They always do a great job. So good that if Tamiya has a TS color that suits my needs I'll buy that instead of using my airbrush. For the bits and pieces, I use Tamoya acryllics mainly. Brush them on and clean my brushes with water. Easy peasy. I do have some other various acryllics as well from Mission Models, and Vallejo. Again, they are mainly just used with a paint brush on parts. For primer, I always use Tamiya fine surface white primer, or Mr Surfacer 1500 black primer. These are in spray cans and are hands down the best primers around. They apply nice and smooth, dry super fast, and I have yet to find a paint I can't use on top of them. I keep a few spray cans of each on hand at all times. And for clearcoat I have two options. I almost always use Mr Super Clear UV Cut in a spray can. This stuff is amazing! The other clearcoat I use when I am in the mood is Splash 2k clear. Also an excellent product. If you want to take the time to mix it up and clean out your airbrush right afterwards. Someone was talking about the fumes. First, it is a fact. Paint fumes are bad for you. However, if you paint outside of you have a properly engineered paint booth that can suck away nearly all of the fumes, you are fine. You don't NEED a mask. Now if you do this all day, every day, sure, wear a mask. But if you only spray paint a couple times a month, or once a week, you are not doing it often enough to do any harm. I have been spray painting things for 40 years without a mask. I'm a Mechanical Engineer. My brain works still. But you can insert a joke about that if you want. haha

I learned a great trick for when the parts are molded in a loud color that will bleed through paint. Apply a couple light coats of silver paint first. Then a light primer coat. Then paint. I can't explain why that works, but it works. I do this when a model is molded in a bright yellow, orange, or red color and I plan on painting is a completely different color. I also do this when a model is molded in black and I want to paint it a bright color.

Great info. I'd like to build on the expert topic. There are a lot of steps here. It is a simple technique. Just take each step, don't skip steps, and use caution. Mistakes are made when you don't clean up a little after each step, or you take shortcuts. At least in my experience. Go through all the steps, take your time, and be meticulous, and you shouldn't have issues. That is where the practice comes in. Practice being thourough.