ctruss53

2k clear is like that with any paint. It is a coating and it doesn't bond as well as paint. If you detack your masking tape so it is not as sticky you can avoid this. I have a funny trick. I stick the tape to my forehead, peel it off, then stick it to my build. Then the tape is sticky enough to work, but it is not sticky enough to pull off the 2k clearcoat.

Yes, that is one of the great things about 2k clear. It is not a lacquer, it is not an acrylic, and you can shoot it over nearly anything. Just apply 2-3 very light coats first. 5 minutes between each coat. Then you can apply 1 or 2 wet coats for a smooth, glossy finish.

If you have an airbrush and need a custom color, check out MCW and Splash Paints. You can select from their catalogs, but you can also send them paint codes and they will mix up any color you want.

Commenting for more info. I recently saw a rack of these paints in bottles. I am curious.

Use model paint. Companies that make spray cans specifically for scale models may cost more, but you will get better results. Yes, you can get good results using Krylon, Rust-Oleum, or whatever bargain paint you want to use. With quality scale model spray cans from Tamiya and Mr Hobby for example, they are easier to use and you will have better results consistently.

You can put decals on any painted surface. HOWEVER if the paint is flat or semi-gloss, you will have a little more trouble, and you will see the edges of the decals easier. As long as your paint is glossy, it should be fine.

You would have had paint problems right away if the lacquer thinner didn't agree with the paint. So you are probably ok. I usually let the color coat dry 24 hours or so. Overnight or about 12 hours is probably ok as well. When spraying a lacquer clear on acrylic paints, start slow. The first 2 coats should be VERY light dust coats. Wait about 5-7 minutes between those two coats. After the second light coat, wait another 7 minutes or so, then you can apply a couple heavier coats to get that clearcoat to lay down smoother. Wait 7-10 minutes between those wetter coats. Then let that sit for at least 48 hours before you start buffing. I prefer to wait a week or more, but buffing as soon as 48 hours should be ok. The longer you let it cure, the harder it gets. And the harder it gets the better it will polish out.

They said they would ship in October last year when I preordered one. Then it was November, then December, then April, and then it went to TBD. I cancelled my order. I'll order again when it is really released.

Do you have access to Mr Hobby products? If so, Mr Surfacer Black 1500 is technically a primer, but it lays smooth enough that it comes out looking semi-gloss. I use it for most of my semi-gloss black applications.

I use all sorts of different brands of paints. But when I am building a classic car and want an OEM color, I ALWAYS go to MCW finishes. Word of caution. MCW lacquers are "hot" so you need a good primer. I use Tamiya or Mr Hobby surfacers. They bother work great. AND since the paint is "hot" apply the first 2 coats very lightly, and allow plenty of time to cure between those first two coats. 7-8 minutes should be good. Once those first two coats are on there and have had time to cure, then you can apply a final heavier coat or two in order to get a nice smooth layer of paint on there. And MCW paints are old skool style lacquers. He claims you don't need clear coat, you can just polish the paints. However, I still add a clear coat. Short answer, MCW paints are great.

I just mix a little red into some orange to make a red-orange color. This color I mix varies a little every time. Just like the real color.

I'd rather build a 911. If you are going there. hehe

I would choose the Tamiya kit first, always, if Tamiya makes a kit of the car I want to build. Because when I buy a Tamiya kit I know the parts will always be molded well, and fit properly. Having said that, I know many Tamiya kits are curbside. So if my build had to have an engine, I would pick the AMT. I can't explain why. haha

I bought the thing. The NEO I bought with the floating seat is the whole reason why I eventually bought an Eclipse. You weren't here. You don't know what I had. If it was supposed to exist I can't explain how I owned it. But I did. You can't say I didn't. F you. And you are now on ignore.

I bought the thing. It had an f-ing floating seat. Don't call me a liar. Maybe it was mispackaged? I don't know. But what I do know is it had a floating seat like an Eclipse. To call me a liar without seeing what I bought is not cool.

Interesting. My Iwata NEO had the same floating seat that my Eclipse has.

I have an airbrush story...... I picked up the Iwata NEO as my first airbrush several years ago. Loved it. It worked well and was easy to clean because it has a floating needle seat instead of that little threaded piece like nearly every other brand. Then I upgraded to the Eclipse. I really liked this one as well. Easy to use easy to clean with that floating seat. Then I accidentally dropped it and damaged it. Instead of repairing it I chose to try other airbrushes. I tried Pasche, A cheap Chinese knockoff, and then finally the Harder and Steenbeck Evolution. The H&S Evolution was my new favorite. It has a floating needle seat like the NEO and Eclipse. And it has these holes or flutes in the outer cone to help with airflow for paint application. LOVED IT! but the problem with the H&S Evolution was I kept tearing the o-ring that seals the nozzle to the body. One month in I tore it. The replaced it and tore it again. It was too easily damaged. So I am back in an Eclipse. In fact I bought two so I have a backup. I will never use another airbrush.

Because of quality, I am VERY picky when it comes to AMT, MPC, and Revell kits. Before I buy a kit from one of those companies I scour the internet for reviews to find out if it is any good. And because of poor quality, I prefer to build kits from Asian companies. Tamiya at the top, Aoshima, Nunu, Fujimi, and Hasegawa.

We had a long-time member of our model car club pass away. We worked with his wife to gather up his modeling tools and kits. Then we auctioned off the items in our annual club auction and gave the proceeds back to his wife.

To piggy back on what Bill said. I don't think you should shoot for an out of the bottle color. Look up some photos of what you are actually trying to duplicate and then mix something close. Depending on the application you could start with a tan color, or a warm grey, or even an olive drab, and then modify from there. Then the fun part is also determining the sheen. Is it glossy from the resin, or is it semi-gloss? If you play with this I'd love to see what you come up with.

I use Tamiya Clear Red as well. For turn signal amber I use Tamiya paints as well, but I find that their Clear Orange is too close to the red, so I mix in a bit of Clear Yellow.

Got the body and chassis painted last night. I wanted to try a new (to me) paint brand. So I painted this hot rod with Mission Models MMP-015 Rotbraun RAL 8012. Mission Models paints are strange. Typical guy thing, I didn't follow instructions for how to use the paint. The first time I used it I just mixed the paint 50:50 with water, like I do with most acrylic paints.... especially Tamiya. The paint applied fine, but it took like a million coats to get the color to show correctly. But a bunch of garbage fell in the paint so I had to strip it and start over anyways. So I looked up the video from Mission Models to see how to mix the paint. They say use 10 parts paint, 1 part Poly clear, and 1 part Thinner. So I gave that a shot. The paint was thick, almost too thick for my airbrush. But it coated well and went on smooth. I experimented more and found the sweet spot for me. I mixed 10 parts paint, 3 parts Poly clear, and 4 parts thinner. When mixed in this ratio the paint behaves better in the airbrush and still coats very well and lays down nice and smooth. With this mix I went back to the hot rod and sprayed on 3 coats. First coat was light, second coat was medium, and the final coat was medium-heavy. And then I applied my favorite clearcoat. Mr Super Clear UV Cut. I applied it like I always do. 2 Mist coats, 3 minutes apart. Then 2 medium-kinda wet coats, 5 minutes apart. And then a final heavy wet coat like so heavy it is just about to run. This is my show car clear process. For race cars I leave out the last heavy clearcoat. I still need to polish it out. I have to wait another day for the clear coat to cure. I like to wait at least 48 hours. Enough words, here are some pictures. Here are some floor pan pics. Here is the chassis. The body. And then I set it all together.

The Mr Super Clear is so good that it is my favorite clear coat even though I have an airbrush and can spray nearly anything I want.

I got a bunch of stuff this week. Sorry no pics. World Rally Blue paint from Splash for a couple of Impreza Rally car kits I want to build. BBS Gold paint from Splash for those same rally car kits. I also received some Mission Models Paints to try out on a hot rod I am building. I received a mk3 VW Golf model kit from Scale Riders. And finally I got 3 cans of my favorite gloss clear spray paint. Mr Super Clear UV Cut Gloss Spray. This stuff is seriously good. I keep 3-4 cans of it on hand at all times.

I actually apply paint UNDER the flocking. This way you can slightly change the shade of the flocking without painting it.