ctruss53

What was the subscribe by deadline for this issue? I subscribed around the beginning of March, or end of February. I forgot exactly when. haha

My daily driver is a 2013 Toyota Highlander. It is a great rig. can haul 7 passengers with the fold out 3rd row seat. Can tow a trailer. And it has typical Toyota reliability. I have a hot rod project in the garage. I have most of a 1930 Chevy 3 window coupe body with a bunch of bullet holes in it. I have a 1930 Ford Model A frame I boxed in and it is a bare rolling chassis with an 8.8" rear axle in it. And finally I have on my workbench, a 2.3L turbo engine from a 1995 Saab 9000 Aero with a 6 speed transmission from a BMW M3 adapted to it. one of these years the chassis, drivetrain, and body, will all be one assembly.

I do not subscribe to painting a layer of the base color first. You will already end up with a "ledge" where the paint builds up thicker than the base coat. If you add another base coat you are just thickening that secondary color coat. In my experience is to paint that secondary color area in very light mist coats. If you apply the paint light enough there literally isn't enough paint to bleed under the tape. If possible, another technique that helps is to paint away from the tape edge. Meaning spray at an angle greater than 90 degrees from the surface with the taped edge. If you are painting in light enough coats, this doesn't really matter. And in your case, you can't do this. But it is something to think about.

I have used several different types of alcohols and degreasers on 2k clear without issue. HOWEVER, the 2k clear needs to be fully cured, like a few days or more, at least. Disclaimer: I could have been lucky. I may not have had any issues with Alcohols, but I would test it first. I know for sure those degreasers like Super Clean, Purple Power, and LA's Totally Awesome should NOT be used for that. And finally I might try WD-40 like suggested above, or even just some soapy water. Either could work just fine.

I bought some more colored plastic mute spray (Tamiya TS-30) And I got two more cans of Mr Hobby Mr Super Clear Gloss UV Cut. The best clear coat in a spray can.

Yes, I have that MR Hobby set as well. Very nice. And The bits bend instead of breaking. Don't ask.....

If you want cheap, I bought something like this. https://www.amazon.com/WayinTop-Carbide-0-3mm-1-2mm-Circuit-Engraving/dp/B07S636JHY/ref=sxin_17_ac_d_mf_brs?ac_md=4-3-V2F5aW5Ub3A%3D-ac_d_mf_brs_brs&content-id=amzn1.sym.1ad31f34-ba12-4dca-be4b-f62f7f5bb10d%3Aamzn1.sym.1ad31f34-ba12-4dca-be4b-f62f7f5bb10d&crid=SDP20CW5D2V3&cv_ct_cx=mini+drill+bit+set&keywords=mini+drill+bit+set&pd_rd_i=B07S636JHY&pd_rd_r=afe25a5d-0023-49f3-bc46-8471624562b4&pd_rd_w=F55OU&pd_rd_wg=GUvU0&pf_rd_p=1ad31f34-ba12-4dca-be4b-f62f7f5bb10d&pf_rd_r=NDQRPH54W9WBQJMHS6X4&qid=1679326350&sbo=RZvfv%2F%2FHxDF%2BO5021pAnSA%3D%3D&sprefix=mini+drill+bit+set%2Caps%2C98&sr=1-4-8b2f235a-dddf-4202-bbb9-592393927392 You get 5 of each size bit so WHEN they break you have more.

Most pin vises do not come with bits. This way you can choose what you want to put in it. I went on Amazon and bought a set of drill bits for my pin vise. If you buy cheap ones, get a set that comes with multiple bits of each size. Those little drill bits break easily.

Great idea.

My problem is why would other peoples black base work better than the black base made by the people that make the chrome. And Spaz Stix is expensive in spray cans too. I have had best luck with SMS

$35???? Damn I got the same results with Spaz Stix that you did. It reacted with its own brand of backer. And it was meh over other black backers. It seemed to like going over black paint with 2k clear, but thats a lot of work. I have had the best resullts with SMS Hyperchrome so far. And you can spray SMS over any color as long at it is glossy and smooth. I even used black primer, Mr Hobby spray can clear to get it smooth, and then SMS Hyperchrome and it turned out pretty good. And the SMS Hyperchome is 1/4 the price of this new Revell stuff.

I always use Tamiya and Mr Hobby spray can primers under Splash paints. You have to mist on the first few coats of Splash paint. If you lay that first coat on too thick, it can "burn" into the primer and the model. But this is fine because Splash paints work great when you mist them on anyways. They dry to a semi-gloss finish and require a clearcoat. If you want a spraycan clear, I can't say enough good things about Mr Hobby Super Gloss Ultra UV clear. I have an airbrush and I still use that spraycan clear on nearly all my models. Mist on 3 coats, 5 minutes between coats. Then wait about 30 minutes and spray on 1 or 2 wet coats. Works every time. But if you are buying from Splash, their 2k clear is amazing as well. Mist on a few coats, then spray on a wet coat or two. Sometimes it lays down so smooth that you don't even need to polish it.

I think it is on the honor system. I don't see any requirements in the listing process that require proof.

I actually am trying Etsy. The problem with Etsy is the kits have to be "vintage" so I can't sell kits that are less than 20 years old on there. Etsy is only 6% commission, not 13.25% like eBay.

And your signature fits. I'm putting you (a troll) on ignore.

I'm not against fees. I am against outrageous fees. eBay is over 13% commission, and they take that 13.25% out of your shipping fees too. But at the same time they want you to exactly calculate shipping through them. So they are basically saying here is what shipping costs, oh, but you have to give us 13.25% of that so you actually have to pay for part of the shipping even though you are asking the buyer to pay for shipping. And I said a table at a model show was out of the question because Average Joe at a model shows wants a deal of the century on a muscle car from Revell or AMT. I have Japanese kits of Japanese cars and while my asking prices are reasonable, they are not bargain basement. So I get zero sales from tables at model shows. A forum would be a great place to sell. I can understand why admins don't allow it, but all they have to do is ignore PM's from disgruntled buyers and sellers. Buying online is at your own risk. Oh well.

So you missed the part where I said I don't use Facebook.

So you didn't read the thread.

I don't know. Maybe they are old stock? I thought the gravity feed Eclipse only came with a .3mm needle as well. But this one I bought from Hobby Lobby has a .5mm needle. I looked at buying a second Eclipse gravity feed online and I can't find them with the .5mm needle. Maybe I got some super rare one that I can sell on eBay for $1000? haha

Brand new. Hobby Lobby.

My gravity feed Eclipse came with the .5mm needle.

Tamiya x-22 clear will work just fine over decals, but you have to apply it very lightly. 3-4 mist coats, about 5 minutes apart. then after the last mist coat, I like to wait a little longer, like 30 minutes. Then I apply a heavier coat to smooth it out. I actually prefer Mr Hobby High Gloss Ultra UV clear when using spray cans. Same technique applies. 3-4 mist coats, then wait a bit and apply a heavier coat. With either product I try to wait a week before I polish the clearcoat.

Ugh, I quoted, then went to add a quote and it deleted my original post. So nevermind. I can't delete the screwup, so you get to see this instead.

And this post was still there even after I replaced it with an edit. So you get to see two posts I can't delete now.

Spraygunner pointed me to Procon when I was asking them if anyone sold airbrushes that were the same design as the Eclipse. That design with the large needle seat that doesn't screw in, it is just a compression fit. Procon airbrushes have that fiddly little needle seat like the Paasche and Badger air brushes, that I hate, so I didn't buy one. Bill, if you need a great all purpose airbrush that just works, is easy to maintain, and will never let you down, get an Eclipse. They are amazing. Now if you need to do really fine detail work you might need something else, or you'll need the .3mm needle set for the Eclipse. The Eclipse I bought has the .5mm needle set, so it isn't great for the fine details. But it is amazing for standard work. I can't even express how good the eclipse is. It frustrates me when I think about how much money I wasted trying to find something else. I should have just fixed the one I had.