ctruss53

Yeah, I am not trying to profit from these kits. But selling them has to be worth it or why bother. Thanks for the compliments on the kits. My whole collection except for a few here and there are flat box, Japanese kit, and 90% are older out of production kits. A couple of them might actually be worth something, but most of them are just worth retail or less.

I'm excited to drive down next weekend. My hotel is booked.

My new Iwata Eclipse airbrush came in the mail today. I had an Eclipse airbrush years ago. Instead of buying another one, or even just the parts I needed when I broke it, I wasted an insane amount of money trying other airbrushes. I hated them all. Paasche, Badger, a couple cheap Chinese knock-off Badgers, and finally I spent some big money on a Harder and Steenbeck Evolution. They all sucked. I mean they worked fine, but I don't like that fiddly little needle seat you have to use a wrench on to take it off and clean it. And the Harder and Steenbeck Evolution was amazing, but every 5th time I took it apart to clean it out the o-ring would tear and then I was down until I could get another one. After the 3rd o-ring in 2 months I finally ponied up and got another Eclipse. End rant.

I have the purple Wonder Haruyama A31 Nissan Cefiro

ALL of my kits are uncommon, even the ones I want to sell. The problem is finding people that want them. They are odd cars in the eyes of Average Joe Car Modeler. I was thinking about a local import car show. That could be a good place to try.

I don't let models stall. WIP models sit on my workbench until they are done. So the oldest WIP kit I have ever had is 3 months old. Because it took 3 months to build.

I knew a 3D printer would come in here and be defensive about my comment. I never said 3D printing was easy. I said it was easier than resin casting. Because it is a fact that 3D printing is easier than resin casting. And thats why people are making the switch over to 3D printing. I buy 3D printed parts because I suck at operating a 3D printer. I have tried several times and I can't get the results I want. 3D printing is not easy. But it is easier to create a model on a computer than it is to create a real, master model, and then make a mold of it. That is why I say 3D printing is easIER. I am not trying to discount the abilities of people that actually 3D print things. Props to you guys for being able to do it. I am simply saying that technology is making 3D printing easier than actually resin casting things.

I have a few small SUVs. I'll post up some trade posts.

I have 3 WRC Subarus, but they are in my keepers. I don't have any rally cars in my sell pile, but I do have several touring cars.

Yeah, I am tempted to try the trades section. I don't have typical tastes though. But who knows.

I'm not trying to make money. Not at all. Only 1 or 2 of the kits I want to sell would be considered collectable. Having said that, all the kits I am selling are new (old, but new), unopened, unmolested. So I don't plan to sell them for $1 either. If that is the case I'll just keep them. I'm not sitting on thousands of model kits here. I have maybe 110 kits, and I would like to sell 20-30 of them. So someone that buys collections of kits for $1 a piece is not an option. But this is also why eBay is not an option either. eBay wants too much in commission. And the listings take too long to write up. It is not worth it. And again, model swap meets are not worth it either. Too many modelers are looking for deals on collectable kits. I pay for a table and never sell anything. I have lost money trying to sell at swap meets. I might as well sell to someone that buys collections, collect my $20, and move on instead. Then I'm not hauling 20-30 kits into a building, buying a table to set them on, only to haul 20-30 kits back out to my car at the end of the day. Yeah, I might sound bitter. I just wish there were more options. Sounds like I might just be letting them collect dust. EDIT: I think my main problem is all my kits are "flat box" kits. Meaning they are Japanese. Tamiya, Fujimi, and Aoshima, car kits. This is why swap meets are so unsuccessful. None of the modelers that frequent swap meets shop for the type of kits I have. I pretty much have to sell online. I am trying to get $20 - $50 for each kit depending on rarity. They are all new, and they are all out of production. Even if they aren't worth what I am trying to get, they are worth much more than a buck or two. I'll sit on them instead of sell them for that little.

That seems like extra work. Just brush on elmers glue where you want the flocking and sprinkle it on.

I go to a model show nearly once a month. Tables cost money and then I never sell anything. So model shows are not an option, they just cost me money. I tried eBay, but it takes forever to list something and then they take 13.25% when you sell. Not worth the time or money. I put a few kits on Etsy. Those listings are pretty easy to setup. They charge $0.20 per listing, and then they charge 6% when you sell. The problem with Etsy is the kits being sold have to be "vintage" in order to sell them. Meaning the kits have to be 20 years old or more. Some of the kits I want to sell are not that old yet. So I can't use Etsy for everything. I'm going to sound like I am 100 years old here, but I got rid of my smartphone. I wasted too much time on it, so my other problem is app based selling platforms are also a no go for me. Facebook, LetGo, OfferUp, and other app based selling platforms are out. And people or companies that buy collections are not an option either. I don't NEED to get rid of these models, so I am not going to let them go for a couple bucks a piece. My kits are not worth a ton of money, but they are worth more to me than a couple bucks a piece. So I guess I can refine my question..... Where can I sell my models online with a computer? eBay is out. I am trying Etsy. Are there any other good forums that allow selling?

So, eBay then.

I want to thin down my stash. We are not allowed to sell kits here, I know this. Where is the best place to sell kits? I asked an admin before I posted this and they said this was ok. As long as I don't sell kits here. eBay is asking for like 13.25% so while that is probably the best option, I don't feel like giving them that much money. I am not on Facebook, so Marketplace is not possible. I think I might try Etsy, they only take like 6% commission. But I am open to other suggestions.

Less and less people are resin casting parts every year because during the same time, 3D printing becomes easier and easier to do. Printers are getting better, print quality is improving. There really isn't a reason for new people to cast resin when 3D printing is easier to do.

I'm not sure the results are any different on way over the other. But I find my paper goes a lot further when I wet sand.

I'm not sure what you are saying. But I like CAD.

I am still using a bottle of Model Master cement with the metal needle applicator on painted parts. But it will run out soon. I have purchased some new Revell Contacta Professional which seems to work very well. Problem with the Revell glue is the metal applicator needle doesn't stay in the bottle. Two bottles have done this to me now, I have had to return them both. Now I am using the classic Testors tube glue. I dispense some onto a scrap piece of cardboard and apply it with a toothpick. This classic glue works very well on painted parts. Testors is also available as a bottle with a brush. I will probably buy some of that too.

Tamiya spray paints have been the most user friendly and forgiving paints I have ever used. Humidity can be an issue, but you have to remember that Tamiya deals with as much humidity as you would deal with in Florida. They make products that should function in humid climates.... to a point. Tamiya spray can primer is about the best there is. I have an airbrush. I can pick any primer I want. And I still use Tamiya spray can primer. Your main problem is that wet coat. I never apply a close up wet coat with any brand of spray can. I always shoot from about a foot away, and always keep the can moving. I mist on 2-3 coats, sometimes I'll mist on a 4th coat. The clearcoat is where you should be doing your wet coats. Again, I have an airbrush, but Mr Hobby Gloss Clear Ultra UV in a spray can is so good that many times I will use that clear coat instead of all the options I have with an airbrush. And with the Mr Hobby clear, I mist on 2-3 coats, and then I'll do 1 or 2 heavier coats to get it to lay down smooth. But even those heavier coats I will still spray from 8-12 inches away. To get the heavier coat I just slow down the passes. I hope this helps.

That Gravity USA guy is just buying in bulk from Gravity in Spain and then reselling in the states. And I have heard horrible things about service. There are so many high quality paint options from companies right here in the United States. I don't know why anyone would deal with this BS, or pay the insane shipping for Zero Paints. MCW, and splash are here, just to name a couple. Orders are shipped out in days. Shipping is cheap.

I have both Tamiya and regular lacquer thinner.

I used Mr Hobby putty. It is not a two part putty, but you can thin it with lacquer thinner, so maybe that would work.

I DONT WANNA! haha