ctruss53

Nice work on this. I built this kit and added the laptop with the "Danger to manifold" screen as well. And I added green underglow.

My suggestion is to use MCW lacquer paints instead of enamels. They are pre-thinned and ready to spray.

I normally don't like to share WIP material because it nearly always jinxes the build. I post progress and then I screw it up and the build either ends up in the trash, or I hide it in the basement never to be seen again. However on this build, I have already screwed it up once. So maybe I can post progress and get input on how to proceed as I build. So here we go..... The 1935 Mercedes 500k is a beautiful car. But I have never built a scale model hot rod before. So this Johan Mercedes told me it wanted to be a hot rod. The box. So the first thing I did when I unpacked the kit was I proceeded to cut the fenders off. Then I stripped the chrome off of the parts I was using. The chrome is really bright and there is a ton of flash. So I want to redo the parts and the chrome. LA's Totally Awesome stripped the chrome in a few minutes. Since these photos were taken I have finished the engine. I added wiring and hot rodded the engine a bit. I'll post pics tonight or tomorrow. And since these photos were taken I have screwed up the body, bought a second kit, and started over on the body. So in future photos the body will be molded in green. HAHA

This hobby has some bad apples too. If you go look in the section of this forum about how to work the forum, there is a guy complaining because he can't block people. He wants to block them because he thinks their builds are so bad they are offensive. His posts are insulting. So I put him on ignore. haha I have had nothing but great experiences in this hobby. I joined the local scale model car club and I have learned a ton of stuff. In fact those guy compliment me on how much I have improved in the 4-5 years since I have joined. I can't say enough good things about what the club has done for me and my skills. Now on the other end of this spectrum are real car clubs. I also build real, full scale cars. And real car clubs are very clicky. The mopar guys all hudle together and insult everyone that won't drive a mopar. The import guys call all the american car guys names. And so on and so on. Real car groups seem very segrigated in my experience. I have to go online if I need help or want information.

The "worn" surfaces of brake discs are nearly always a very bright bare metal with concentric scuff marks. I haven't stepped up my brake disc game yet, but when I do I would probably do this..... 1. spray paint the discs silver. 2. add a clearcoat 3. polish to a high gloss finish 4. apply your chrome finish of choice (I am on the SMS train right now. I love the stuff) 5. Once chrome finish is dry, VERY lightly add some concentric scuffs with sand paper or maybe a toothpick or xacto might work.

I'm not sure it really makes a huge difference if you change directions or not. The key is just making sure you remove the scratches from the coarser paper with each step as you go to finer paper. I think changing directions just makes it easier to spot when you have successfully removed all the scratches from the coarser steps. I like to sand in several directions whenever possible. But if I can't, I keep a closer eye on what is going on.

I still have some of that Model Master Cement. It is my go to for painted parts. I use Revell Contacta Professional as a replacement. I am not happy with the Contacta Professional though because the metal applicator tube doesn't stay in the bottle like it should. As a second replacement for the Model Master cement I use the Testors red and white jar with the brush applicator. I think the MM, Revell, and Testors cements are all pretty equivalent. I would not be surprised if they were all the same stuff in different packaging. Now the best glue in my mind for bare plastic is the Tamiya cement with the orange cap. If you want a quick bond for parts that fit very well together with no gap, then Tamiya with the green cap is awesome.

Ok

Bump this to the top. I am excited for the show.

Were you selling those bodies at the Nebraska Challenge last weekend? I saw a few modern truck bodies for sale. Didn't have a chance to ask about them.

I just visited the 1957 Chevy topic yesterday at a swap meet. In nearly everyones opinion, that I talked to, that dark blue 57 Chevy "Street Machine" at the bottom from AMT is the best version of the 57 to get. Especially if you do not plan to build it stock. It has an updated suspension and engine. The wheels are kinda meh, but if you are going to modify it, change those out too. I found the dark blue one on the bottom at the swap meet for $10. I think I got a deal. If you want to build a stock 57 Chevy I was told the yellow "Pro Shop" version is the one to get.

I may or may not be interested. I would need to see the results before I committed.

What a great show. I am so glad I took the time to drive down and check it out. Great turnout of very high quality builds. And the swap meet was packed with some good stuff too. I'll be back. And I'll try to talk some of my club members into joining me.

Thank you for the offer. I might take you up on it.

I collect old mechanical computer keyboards from the 1980s and 1990s because I like how they feel to type on. I like them so much that I brought one to work to use. And I have 3 more in a box in case that one breaks. Sometimes after I type something like this I think "Holy H E Double Hockey Sticks, Chad. You sound like you are 100 years old." I'm only 45. I'm not even a baby boomer.

I type out this thread and then I find this on google. What the hell google. https://griffinmodels.com/?SID=q86s1aceuehmcdm9ahd2v67dq7

My 1991 Saab 900 Turbo for reference.

I am a BIG fan of Saab automobiles. I'm talking about when they were quirky and really good cars, before GM bought them and ruined them. The old 2.3L turbo engine they made was bulletproof. And fun fact, the Saab 2.3L 4 cylinder leans over like half of a V8 because the casting for that engine block is based on half of an old Triumph V8 block. Yeah, I'm a geek. I have been looking for a classic Saab 900, or Saab 99 model kit. Even better if it was a rally car. According to Scalemates and Rocketfin, nobody made Saab car model kits. Please tell me there is something out there. Resin, 3D printed, anything.

Google the Camaro Exorcist. It is a few years old, but Hennessey made a 1000hp Camaro. It is ridiculously dangerous because they got 1000hp out of it, but did nothing with the suspension, tires, or brakes.

I never understood why people use Future when there are so many high quality clearcoats out there.

Mk3 VW Golf. The best mk. VW has been downhill from there. Don't ask me how I know. Just know that newer VW's are why I will only buy Toyotas now.

I would use the half round styrene strip method like mentioned above. I did this same thing when replacing the raised body line on a hot rod body and it worked really well. If the half round shape is too "pronounced" you can sand it down a bit so it has a flatter top.

TOMATO TOMATO

I got a sealed box Tamiya rally car kit today.

Thank you!