ctruss53

I use these foam pads on a electric toothbrush.

They also said June 2022 August 2022 October 2022 January 2023 April 2023 And so on.

That silver Audi touring car has been "coming soon" for a year now. I am anxiously awaiting that one.

Emails that say "order received." And "order shipped." Can be automated. Many of the one man shows that I buy from have done this. I get an email that they received my order. And another email when the order ships. All automated. the one guy running the show doesn't have to do anything. As far as I'm concerned, with all the online tools out there to help make doing business easier. There should be no reason a business can't keep customers updated. EDIT: I would like to add that I don't mind if it takes a small business a few days, or a week to process an order. And I don't mind if it takes weeks for the order to get to my house. But it is important to me that I receive an "order received" email very quickly, and an "order shipped" email when the order is shipped. These milestones tell me the order was in fact received, and the shipped email tells me the order is on the way and has tracking. And since these emails can be automated, they should be standard practice.

Your spring show was great. I am going to try and make it down to this show.

Mine is a really goofy one. I found a resin kit of the Eagle 5 flying Winnebago from the movie Spaceballs. They guy that made the models for the movie, reproduced a handfull of Eagle 5 kits for fans to buy and build. There are maybe 20 kits floating around out there and I have one. It is a horrible kit. I doubt I will ever build it. It is clear that it was built in a way that displays just enough detail as it flies across the screen. The sides and roof are wavy, there is no interior. The bottom chassis piece will have to be modified just to fit the body. And the wings and rockets have to be modified and probably pinned to fit together right. This is also my first resin kit. Maybe resin kits are all this horrible? I don't know.

Personally I don't like using dehydrators. Modern paints, excluding enamels, dry quick enough as it is. Primers dry fully in an hour or two, and lacquer paints dry in 24 hours or less depending on brand and how thick you apply them. I don't understand the need to rush this. I let my lacquer clearcoat cure for a week. But I don't want to rush that with a dehydrator either. My thought is a clearcoat is going to gas out at the rate is will gas out and I don't think rushing that is a good thing. So what I do so I don't need to rush the paint is I paint the body first. Primer, then color coat one day. Then I apply the clearcoat on day 2. Then while I give the clearcoat a week to cure, I build the model. Often times the clearcoat gets 2-3 weeks to cure because I am building.

I'm sorry you had a bad experience with MCW paint. The leaky bottle is a frustrating thing. As for your user experience, I have a few questions. 1. Did you buy a metallic paint? I ask because the very few times I have had issues with MCW paints, it was user error on my part, and they were metallic paints. I don't know what is different about the mix, but they require a little finese. This could explain the streaks. 2. How did you apply the paint? And over what primer? I ask becasue some MCW paints, especially the metallics require that finese I mentioned above. You have to build them up in light coats because if you lay that first coat on too thick it can craze the plastic, streak, or run. And this could cause all of the problems you describe. And you are right about Tamiya acrylics. You would not have any issues with those paints. But the reason you would not have issues with Tamiya paints is because they are some of the most forgiving and versatile paints out there. You can thin them with water, and you don't have to be exact about it either. I have used Tamiya acrylic paints successfully at nearly any ratio with water, all the way out to 60% water. And I have even accidentally sprayed them through an airbrush without even thining them. They are that forgiving. I am saying all this because you have been using paint that is hard to screw up. Then you switched to MCW, a paint that can be finicky especially if you got a metallic. So not to be mean, but the results are probably due to the user. I would grab some plastic spoons, try a couple different primers. And then practice using the MCW paint. I like to build up the paint with several very light mist coats, then lay down a medium0heavy wet coat on the end to get a smoother finish. But it takes practice. If you practice and give MCW an honest try, you will be very happy with the results. They mix up spot on classic OE colors.

Not sure why it smells like that. But it says in at least two places that scale models are not the intended use for that stuff.

I have tried the MCW primer. It can build up and crack. Well at least it did when I was using it, but I'm sure it was 99.9% user error. I couldn't see it was applied, I kept applying it, and next thing I knew it was too thick. Having said that, I know it is a high quality product. And I want to give it another shot. I use Tamiya and Mr Hobby primers in spray cans now. They work perfectly every time. And I have not found a paint that they disagree with. Tamiya and Mr Hobby primers are lacquer, and I have applied many different brands of acrylics and lacquers over those primers. It always works.

That is argument.

This is not a valid arguement. The people buying Rustoleum and Krylon paints, are not cheap. They are settling for inferior products. Quality supplies cost what they are going to cost. A builder has to decide if they want the excellent results quality products will give them, or if they want to settle for less. And if a builder settles for inferior supplies, they simply cannot expect great results. The same thing goes for anything really. I WANT a luxury car, or a high performance car so I can enjoy my drive to work every day. But I CHOOSE to buy slightly older vehicles so that I have money for other things. That doesn't make me cheap. I am choosing to save money on my transportation because I can't afford the car I want AND fund my hobbies and save for retirement.

For those of you that have to buy your paint online I'd like to offer up a trick I use. I do all paint searches on Amazon first. I do this because you can find nearly any of the high quality hobby paints on there. And when you search on Amazon you get better images, a better search engine, and then in the end you get the part number of the product you want, and a price and availability. Then once you have seen the images, and have your part number, you can search the online hobby shops. Many of the websites the online hobby shops use have search tools that are much less than adequate. So using Amazon to find the part easier, allows you to have the information you need to use the bad search tools and get the results you want. I use this same technique for all of my hobby paint, tool, and supply needs. A perfect example is Modelroundup. They have a tools tab, and a supplies and tools tab. If you clearly want a tool and you search in the tools tab, you can't find hardly anything because most of their tool offerings are in the supplies and tools tab. In fact they can get rid of the tools tab because everything in the tools tab is also in the tools and supplies tab, but the tools tab does not have hardly any of the items that are in the tools and supplies tab.

And another user goes on the ignore list.

There is no need to make fun of someone for asking this question. This is no different than any of the other questions people ask when trying to take that next step to improving their scale model building capabilities. If they have been using products like Rustoleum or Krylon spray cans the whole time they have been building, simply because they are cheap. And now they want to buy quality products that actually work right. More power to them.

Hmm, thats a good primer?

Building scale models allows me to build my favorite cars, or get creative with paint, without spending hundreds of thousands of dollars. And I can build all these cars, and park them all in a shelving unit instead of a warehouse. If I could afford it, I would be building real cars instead of scale models.

If you have an airbrush, the sky is the limit. You can use almost anything and get better results than Rustoleum or Krylon spray cans. I am saying this because since you can use almost anything, you can go to many different places for paint. Hobby shops Michaels or other craft stores Hobby Lobby Hardeware stores sometimes Even Target and Walmart can have craft paint in stock. Not to mention you can get those little bottles of touch up paint at the auto parts store, thin them with the right solvent, and spray those through your airbrush. Now for spray cans. local hobby shops are usually the best place to go without having to ship. If you mail order spray cans you can go on Amazon, and even give Ebay a shot. But there are tons of online hobby shops that have great options too. Some are mentioned above. Modelroundup, Scalehobbiest, I think USA Gundam store might have them. Just to name a few. And then finally for exterior paints for airbrush use, Splash Paints and MCW Finishes are the best places. They have tons of automotive options and they can custom mix colors for you as well. I use Splash Paints for modern cars, some popular classic colors, and race car colors. And then I use MCW any time I want a spot on match for a classic original color. Yes, hobby paints cost more. But you are buying something designed for what you are using it for. So you will get better results, easier. And if it is easier to get good results, you will get those good results more consistantly.

I'd like to clarify why I always suggest spray paint designed for hobby use like Tamiya or Mr Hobby. Rustoleum paint quality is totally fine. There is honestly nothing wrong with the paint itself. The problem is the spray can and the spray nozzle. Rustoleum spray paint is designed to be used on large projects. So the paint is a little thicker, and the nozzle is designed to spray a higher quantity of paint. This is not suitable for small scale models. Sure, you can develop a technique to get away with using Rustoleum, but scale models are not the intended purpose for those spray cans. Now when you buy spray cans designed for scale model use, like Tamiya, or Mr Hobby, you are buying a paint that is a little more thinned out, and most importantly, the nozzle on the spray can atomizes the paint better so less paint sprays out at once, and the particles are smaller. This allows you to lay down a coat of paint that is more even and not too thick. And since you have more control, the results are easier to achieve and most importantly, easier to repeat. Exterior paint is hard enough to get right. You are only making it harder to get right when you use paints like Rustoleum or Krylon that are not designed for scale model use. And better atomizing and lower paint volumes are why people that want the most control over their paint eventually switch to airbrush. Because with an airbrush you get the best paint atomization, and you can control how much paint you are releasing into the air.

There is a simple solution to this. Use quality paints designed for scale modeling like Tamiya, or Mr Hobby. You will get great results, consistently. And you won't need a drying oven.

I'm sure people will tell me I am wrong, but I have to add something. I don't waste money on Tamiya acrylic thinner. I thin Tamiya acrylic paint with tap water. Clean my airbrush with tap water. And clean my brushes with tap water. And I have zero issues. And water is free.

The problem is not unique to Tamiya. Prep Tamiya paint the same way you'd prep any other paint.

Sorry if this has been covered. I scrolled to the bottom quick to reply to the OP. Tamiya Panel Line Stuff is an enamel. You can't use lacquers or acrylics with it. One thing to note is the pigment in the panel line solution can clump as it sits. You just need to spend some time mixing it really well if you haven't used it in a while. Shake it for a good 5 minutes, physically stir it with a toothpick or sprue, or get a paint mixing tool. Tamiya Panel Line solution for me, has always had some small chunks in it. I just mix it well and keep on using it.

Ok. I have pulled Splash 2k clear off of Splash paints, Tamiya paints X series, and TS series, Mission Paints, and Mr Hobby primers.

Uh, yes. It IS like that with other paints. I have accidentally pulled it off of several different paints. This problem is not unique to Tamiya paints.