ctruss53

Every brand of paint sells their own lacquer thinner, start with thinner from the same company as the paint. Enamel thinner doesn't mix with lacquer. Many of the paints I mentioned come pre-thinned for airbrush use. Tamiya LP series paint. I thin with Mr Hobby Mr Leveling Thinner. Just a bit less that 1:1. Maybe mike 65% paint, 35% thinner. Same goes for the Mr Color lacquer paint lin.

Really? I'm sorry but I gotta know where you have been looking. Splash Paints MCW Finishes Tamiya LP series Zero Paints Mr Hobby has a lacquer paint line There are more, but I'll stop there.

Please provide bigger photos, and / or part numbers.

I'm not sure I follow. Can you show the top of the dash, fit in there?

Interesting. I just use water.

I bought that Gundam marker. You must have bought the only one that is actually chrome, because mine only colors in silver paint. It is a bright, shiny silver, but it is far from chrome.

I didn't laugh at that user. I laughed at the quote from Tamiya. I laughed at Tamiya. But go ahead and laugh at me if you feel like it. I don't give a sh--

I have the orange cap, orange label hexagon bottle Tamiya cement.

Mack would have to be willing to license it at a "reasonable" cost. I would be willing to bet licensing costs are a big driving factor for what kits are made and what aren't.

HAHAHAHAHAHA My orange cap and orange label tamiya cement doesn't smell anything like citrus. What are those people smoking?

Tamiya orange cap doesn't have a citrus smell. And doesn't do that. It melts the plastic together and cures just fine. So I don't know if that Limonen is the culprit.

Spray semi-gloss clear or matte clear depending on how much sheen you want.

The 2.3L 4 cylinder from a Ranger would probably be a great fit in a Pinto. In fact, I would be surprised if nobody has done that swap yet. Speaking of modern 4 cylinders in old cars. I went to Back To The 50's 2 weeks ago. If you don't know about it, Back To The 50's is a HUGE classic car show here in Minnesota. Cars have to be 1964 and older, and they specifically say no Mustangs. The show has been as large as 12,000+ cars. Post COVID they reach nearly 10,000 cars. Anyways, at that show I am seeing more and more hot rods like Ford Model A's with 2.0 L and 2.3L Ford engines pulled from the Focus. And I even saw one or two 2.3L Ecoboost engines. And then if you circle around to the post I started this thread with, I am putting a 2.3L turbo Saab engine in a 1930 Chevy Coupe. Modern 4 cylinders are great options for classic and antique cars. They make as much power as tired run of the mill American V8's, they weigh half as much, and they can get 30mpg. What is not to like? Speaking of mileage, I had a 1955 Dodge pickup. I put it on a 2000 Chevy S-10 chassis, and put a V8 in it. The V8 was a 383 and a mild build. I got about 8mpg. Not fun. So I am looking forward to the day I get my hot rod on the road and can enjoy it at 3-4 times the mpg.

I don't understand why you keep calling the orange cap "unscented." The green cap, extra-tin stuff has a stronger odor, but they are both pretty bad. I am not a chemist, so I'll use regular terms based on my use of both the green cap and orange cap glues. The green cap extra thin glue acts more like an instant glue. You hold the two parts you want to glue together, as they would be assembled. Then you lightly tap that little brush on the joint, the extra thin cement wicks into the joint and those parts are glued together. The parts will hold their bond nearly instantly if there is very little gap. And then the glue takes another few moments to cure based on how much you applied. The green cap glue works best on unpainted and unplated parts. HOWEVER, it can work on painted parts if there is not a whole lot of paint. But it does instantly disolve any paint it touches. I would advise only using it on bare plastic though. The orange cap stuff is thicker. And cures slower. and it still has a strong odor. This glue will not wick into seams, so you have to apply it to the parts and then assemble them. It works best if you apply a little bit of glue to both parts, then wait just a moment, and then put the parts together. It bonds the parts together just enough to hold the bond in a few minutes. But it takes an hour or so to cure fully if you only use a little bit. If you slather that stuff all over the parts the bond will hold pretty well in 5-10 minutes, but it could take a few hours to fully cure. I would equate the orange cap glue to good old Testors tube glues. Yes, I think the two products are different, but they act similar. They melt the plastic together where the glue is applied. And they have similar working times. Tamiya might work a little faster, but they are similar. Just like the green cap glue, the orange cap glue works best on bare parts. Because Tamiya glues work best on bare parts, I have 3 go to glues. Green cap to wick into seams and cure fast. The orange cap glue for a slower, stronger bond or to use when parts don't fix right up to each other the best. And then I have a bottle of that new Revell Contacta Professional to use on painted parts. Because it seems to work just fine with painted parts.

In the 1:1 world you would dilute some soap in water. Wet the surface. Apply the sticker onto wet surface, reposition as needed, and then squeege out the water. This does not have an ill effect on the adhesive. Now I can't tell you if this would work in scale or not. You would have to do a test run on a scrap part. You could wet it with soapy water, apply the sticker, reposition it, and then "squeege" the water out with a q-tip.

Shapeways painted the parts???

I'm not sure I follow.

This is a universal problem with model kits. With the cost of tooling, and the modern problem of paying for all the licensing, a model kit has a very large up front cost. So model kit companies are only going to invest in kits that will sell well. However there are times when kit companies choose a model that is less popular and I can't understand why. Example: Fujimi has used the same 1993 Volkswagen Golf 5 door hatchback tooling for like 5 different kits over the years, including a race car. I can't understand this because the 3 doors were much more popular. Maybe this was a licensing thing. The could get the 5 door license from VW for less than the 3 door. I don't know. All I know is now I'm modifying a 5 door to make it a 3 door.

Thank you for that list. I found 2 or 3 of those creators. But I appreciate the others. I have downloaded a few files that I can use to help learn Blender. It is strange to me how different these rendering programs work compared to the 3D modeling programs I am used too.

And thanks for the link. It is kind of pricey, but I bought one VW engine for the engine in a future build. And I bought a second one because it has a transmission on it. I can cut it off and use it on my current build. haha

A smoothed engine bay is what I want as well.

I paint the parts approximately the same color as the flocking because part color can effect the shade of the flocking. Then I brush on some Elmers glue. I haven't tried thinning it yet, I just brush on the glue as is. Then I use a tea strainer screen. Put the embossing powder in that and tap on it to sprinkle it on semi-evenly. Let the glue dry then shake off the excess powder.

I have found some good files on Cults. But that search tool is horrific. How do you find what you need to find? Last night I dug into Cults for a while. I spend like 2 hours trying to find quality models. One thing that helped is I would find one quality model and then I would go to the creator, look through their stuff. And then also look through what they have liked. And look through whol follow them. This helped me find other quality files and other solid creators. But I am still searching. Specifically I am looking for detail parts for import cars. Engine bays, engines, transmissions, suspensions, and other detail parts for modern (not air-cooled) Volkswagens. I am also looking for engines and bays for rally cars that are common, but for some reason support is lacking. Example, Toyota Celicas, and Ford Focus. Those two cars were a pretty big deal in rally, I have built one or two of each of them. But I would love to step it up and fully detail out a Focus, a Celica, and even a Corolla, or other classic rally cars like the Escort. I see some engines and engine bays for more popular imports like Hondas, and some Subaru Imprezas. But I am not finding what I need. And if I can't find what I need I'll just have to design it myself. But the way Blender works, combined with my lack of knowledge on that program so far, it would help if I could get my hands on something close to what I want and then I could build or modify from that. And even more specifically. Right now I need a transmission for a mk3 VW Golf. I can scratch build the engine pay, if I have to. I have a 3D printed engine. But I need a transmission. And the same kit has flat "door panels" so I will nned to print or make those as well.

Please reach out to me once you have something designed and printed. Specifically I am looking for a VR6 transmission and a mk3 engine bay first. But I will be building other Volkswagens, so I will probably also eventually want a 16V on throttle bodies, and a mk2 engine bay. OH! The door panels on the mk3 model from Fujimi are BLAH_BLAH_BLAH_BLAH as well. I was going to make my own, but if you are willing to explore that as well. There might be a market. The mk3 kit from Fujimi lacks all door panel detail. The dash and seats are fine, but the door panels are just flat.

Thanks for the input.