FujimiLover Posted March 10, 2009 Share Posted March 10, 2009 (edited) Hello there. I am new to this forum and I'd like to share my current project. I had a Fujimi Mazda RX7 FC3S model kit laying around still mint in sealed packag and I decided to start working on it rather then spending 30 bucks on a new kit. I've always loved Fujimi as most of their kit's offer optional dashboards for left or right sided drivers. They also feature alot of really cool "tuned" cars. Here are some pic's of the RX7. I plan on painting this in a custom mixed metallic gray that I had left over from painting a tail-peice for an Align Trex Airwolf that I did a while back. It's almost a gun-metal gray color, but different. I also am into collecting sometimes racing 1/28 scale Kyosho Mini-Z cars and here is a Toyota Altezza body I painted in this gray. Anyway, here's the RX7 so far. The interior will be painted two tone gray useing Tamiay paints German Gray for the dark, and Light Gray for the, eh well light. Edited March 10, 2009 by FujimiLover Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cruz Posted March 10, 2009 Share Posted March 10, 2009 I have that kit myself and I love it. Fujimi does some nice stuff allright. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nick F40 Posted March 10, 2009 Share Posted March 10, 2009 Well, love you name! Me too! I think we'll get along, I like your styles and that Altezza is sweet, I always wanted a Mini Z.... That RX7 is looking good, always liked them. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FujimiLover Posted March 10, 2009 Author Share Posted March 10, 2009 Well, love you name! Me too! I think we'll get along, I like your styles and that Altezza is sweet, I always wanted a Mini Z.... That RX7 is looking good, always liked them. Thank's guy's. I got some better wheels from Aoshima for this project. I just glued on the aerodynamic "Initial D" mirrors on it and it really gives it a cool clean look. I think with the shiny new wheels I'll continue painting it with that special gray, but still not sure about adding carbon-fiber decal on the hood. When I "carbonize" my models, I use the sweet stuff from Scale Motor Sports. They make really nice realistic carbon-fiber decals in various scales. Mini-Z's are great fun as their bodies are highly detailed and almost same size as our 1/24 scale models. In fact, some racers modify 1/24 scale bodies to fit the Mini-Z chassis. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FujimiLover Posted March 10, 2009 Author Share Posted March 10, 2009 Thank's guy's. I got some better wheels from Aoshima for this project. I just glued on the aerodynamic "Initial D" mirrors on it and it really gives it a cool clean look. I think with the shiny new wheels I'll continue painting it with that special gray, but still not sure about adding carbon-fiber decal on the hood. When I "carbonize" my models, I use the sweet stuff from Scale Motor Sports. They make really nice realistic carbon-fiber decals in various scales. Mini-Z's are great fun as their bodies are highly detailed and almost same size as our 1/24 scale models. In fact, some racers modify 1/24 scale bodies to fit the Mini-Z chassis. New wheels from Aoshima! And fresh paint! Don't those mirrors look cool! And two-tone gray dashboard and seats. And what look's like a Momo steering wheel. The gray is hard to see but I two-toned it as well. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FujimiLover Posted March 11, 2009 Author Share Posted March 11, 2009 (edited) A mockup of the build so far. So far, so good unfortunetly, the front wheels are too far in! How can I fix this? Rear wheels are perfect as I had several different axles to choose from. But the fronts? Any suggestions? I've already spaced theme out as far as I knew how with an additional poly-cap between the wheel and suspension arm. You can see how well the gray's go together! You can see here how the wheels are put in. Second picture shows the poly-cap spacer. Edited March 11, 2009 by FujimiLover Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FujimiLover Posted March 11, 2009 Author Share Posted March 11, 2009 Thank you! I have another set which has a better offset, but still further in than I'd like. Seems I need a longer peg to mount the wheels on, but dont' know where to find one or how to make one. Where would I be able to find the kit you mentioned? And how much? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FujimiLover Posted March 11, 2009 Author Share Posted March 11, 2009 (edited) Some more updates. I painted the bottom side of the body to finish off the skirts and give it a more complete look. Interior almost done. Decided upon these wheels as their offset is better than the other ones. And, I decided to give'em a gold finish. I learned a secret from building a previous Koenig Specials model, that if you paint clear yellow ontop of chrome, it gives it a much nicer gold look to it than useing gold paint. I hate building these types of interiors. I much prefer bucket style where it's all molded as one and all you add is the seats and dashboard. Speaking of dashboard. This is one of the most complex dashboards I've had to build. It's got way to many individual peices, including the switches on the sides of the steering colome! I'm considering painting aluminum over these bit's as they are so tiny their hard to see when black on black. I dont know why they made'em seperate anyway. Edited March 11, 2009 by FujimiLover Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Foxer Posted March 11, 2009 Share Posted March 11, 2009 so simple yet...! got to remember that gold wheel deal...they look great! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FujimiLover Posted March 11, 2009 Author Share Posted March 11, 2009 Thank you! Just finished putting the steering wheel on and dry-fitting the dashboard into place. Look's awesome all put together. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nick F40 Posted March 11, 2009 Share Posted March 11, 2009 Wow....this is really nice. I love Scale Motorsport too Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FujimiLover Posted March 11, 2009 Author Share Posted March 11, 2009 Thank you for your comments. Steering wheel mounted, and dashboard and door panels dry-mounted. I'm leaning torwards NOT carbonizing the hood. Back in the 80's when they were tuning and modifying these cars such as Maria and others, I doubt they used carbon-fiber much. Carbon-fiber for import's usually started mid 90's? So I think I'll keep this true and don't use carbon on the body. I also decided against sponsorship decals and what not. Just simple factory badges. The simpler I keep it, the better looking it usually becomes! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tonioseven Posted March 11, 2009 Share Posted March 11, 2009 Looks great so far. I would vote against a CF hood if you're going for the period look. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FujimiLover Posted March 12, 2009 Author Share Posted March 12, 2009 (edited) Thank you, I gave the exterior of the body another coat and will probably add another coat to the interior of the body tomarrow before doing the trim work, decal's, and clear coating. When dry-fitting it all together, body on chassis and what not, it sit's a bit high for my likeing. I wonder how to lower it without ruining anything. Edited March 12, 2009 by FujimiLover Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FujimiLover Posted March 13, 2009 Author Share Posted March 13, 2009 Added another coat of paint this morning, and just recently painted the black trim. Man, I hate painting this very thin area! It's even worse on brightly colored cars where mistakes are even more noticable! Dont' drink too much cafine before doing this! Anyway, enjoy the update. Painted the headlight buckets. Front and side window frames. Rear window frame. It's nice that they frost it where your supposed to paint because I think the frosted bit tends to help keep the paint in line. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FujimiLover Posted March 13, 2009 Author Share Posted March 13, 2009 Updates. I've added the factory badges "decals" and painted in some of the turn-signals and the tail light peice. This model has two different tail light peices as options. One is the rounded style, and the other is the square style. I wanted to use the rounded type, but found it too difficult to paint around those details. So, I opted for the squared one which was alot easier. The Mazda logo practically disapears against the dark metallic gray. Wish they had optional white emblems. Mazda's infinity symbol. Lenses. Tail lights. Silver areas for the turn signals background. Not sure why I bothered with the Mazda logo's when you can't hardly see it anyway! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Foxer Posted March 13, 2009 Share Posted March 13, 2009 A mockup of the build so far. So far, so good unfortunetly, the front wheels are too far in! How can I fix this? Rear wheels are perfect as I had several different axles to choose from. But the fronts? Any suggestions? I've already spaced theme out as far as I knew how with an additional poly-cap between the wheel and suspension arm. You can see here how the wheels are put in. Second picture shows the poly-cap spacer. Looks like a long arm to extend. I'm just doing the same thing on a 32 Ford with widened fenders. I was able to use a couple sizes of evergreen tube. I'm assuming the outer diameter sockets into the wheel. If you can get a tube that fits tight over this one it can act as a splice and bump stop. Install it extending beyond the smaller shaft. Then insert a rod the same diameter as the existing to mount the wheel and get the correct offset. Hopefully this makes sense. If that clear-ish ring is what mounts the wheel, this should still work. Sometimes clearances dictate cutting the existing axle even shorter before extending. Just think of a tube-within-a- tube to extend it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FujimiLover Posted March 13, 2009 Author Share Posted March 13, 2009 I hadn't thought about that. Thank you. I just finished clear-coating the body before realizing I forgot to paint the orange on the turn signals on the side! Oops! Anyway, the clear coat really works wonders, just takes a good 24 hours to dry before handling. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FujimiLover Posted March 13, 2009 Author Share Posted March 13, 2009 Clear coated Tail lights painted Now I just need to wait for the clear coat to dry and I should be able to start assembling the body. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nick F40 Posted March 13, 2009 Share Posted March 13, 2009 Wow, very nice. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nova-ss Posted March 14, 2009 Share Posted March 14, 2009 Great looking 7,I like the way you build and detail.....nice work....Chris Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
atenzapower Posted March 15, 2009 Share Posted March 15, 2009 As a rx 7 fan i like it alot.I have build and have some of those rx 7,they are basic but a lot of fun. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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