E St. Kruiser50 Posted March 25, 2009 Author Posted March 25, 2009 What's the ''Water-based chrome sysyem" you invested in? Simón P. Rivera Torres Hi Simon It's a commercial system, that when you're done costs several thousands of $$$$ to set up, but gives beautiful results, and I get to choose the quality, not depend on someone else. I also get to have all the fun of doing it myself. Just a personality quirk .
coopdad Posted March 26, 2009 Posted March 26, 2009 Excuse my ignorance but I have a question about Alclad. Is it a "paint" or something else? I keep getting hearing problems, special handling, coatings, etc. when people talk about it implying to me that it is something different. Most of what I build is not shiny so I have never asked before but this would be the perfect time to get educated. John
E St. Kruiser50 Posted March 26, 2009 Author Posted March 26, 2009 I found this Simon while snooping around on my fotki sites.This was at the '07 GSL-XXI,I thought you might want to see what it looks like. And the little write up Dave did. Hey, you found it . That's the sample I sprayed up, and took to the GSL, and displayed it there. Wayne Stevens, who is one of the member's here, took the picture's, and posted them. Wayne and I are really good friend's, so after the show, I gave it to him as a gift, as he had left our SABA Club in Portland, and moved to Florida, so he and his wife could care for his wife's ailing mom. Wayne and Jill are VERY COOL PEOPLE. Thanks for posting it - Dave
oldman23 Posted April 15, 2009 Posted April 15, 2009 there are none. i live in merritt island florida, i have comb entire brevard county for hobbies shops and there are none! i live in the suckiest part of the state or country for that matter. Squadron.com carries the whole Alclad Line of paints. SQUADRON.COM
E St. Kruiser50 Posted November 25, 2009 Author Posted November 25, 2009 Hey Donny . This is a thread I did some time ago. I hope this may help you in the future - dave
E St. Kruiser50 Posted December 1, 2009 Author Posted December 1, 2009 HERE YA GO BEN Whenever I see this Alclad topic come up,I like to post this thread, hoping it'll help guys out. Hope it helps ya - dave .
Smart-Resins Posted December 2, 2009 Posted December 2, 2009 Two quick questions. Can you use it over Future and can you use future over it. I am thinking should be no probklem? However I do my futurem 3 parts future to one part mean green and it grabs a terrific shine! Thinking this would help give a deap tone tot eh alclad chrome, then the future over it would make it very bright and shiny? Thanks. Jody
rssschris Posted December 2, 2009 Posted December 2, 2009 I don`t know. since I don`t yet have an airbrush, I`d like to see the results before I invest. Would anybody be willing to Alclad - say a set of wheels - for me ? I could send a set & pay a small fee. Chris
Rider Posted December 2, 2009 Posted December 2, 2009 I've never had any real good luck with Alclad I tried a product called Spaz Stix, for me it has never let me down. This stuff is fantastic, can be cleared and taped, I never was able to do that with Alclad with out affecting the finish. It comes in a 1oz jar or a rattle can and it about 2/3 the cost of Alclad. Dave your product looks awesome, sounds like to still have some refinning issue to handle though. Spaz Stix resaults are very similar to your product, although I much rather use yours seeing as it is water based. Any plans on bring it to market?
E St. Kruiser50 Posted December 3, 2009 Author Posted December 3, 2009 (edited) Two quick questions. Can you use it over Future and can you use future over it. I am thinking should be no probklem? However I do my futurem 3 parts future to one part mean green and it grabs a terrific shine! Thinking this would help give a deap tone tot eh alclad chrome, then the future over it would make it very bright and shiny? Thanks. Jody Hey Jody I've never had any real good luck spraying anything over Alclad, including Future. Everything tones it down. I've got models 7-8 years old with Alclad on them, and just as shiny and nice as the day I sprayed it. Temperature, technique and timing make all the difference. Mine doesn't wear off with minor handling, and there's no clear coat of any kind. Edited December 3, 2009 by Treehugger Dave
Smart-Resins Posted December 3, 2009 Posted December 3, 2009 Well, I have a bottle left here, but hesitant to use it again as when I used alclad on a t bucket I was building, when I went to put the suspension on it, the Alclad wore off. Three times I have resprayed it only for the same thing to happen. Itg discouraged me soo much, then I boxed the model and all it needs is the suspension finished!! LOL. Jody
E St. Kruiser50 Posted December 3, 2009 Author Posted December 3, 2009 Well, I have a bottle left here, but hesitant to use it again as when I used alclad on a t bucket I was building, when I went to put the suspension on it, the Alclad wore off. Three times I have resprayed it only for the same thing to happen. Itg discouraged me soo much, then I boxed the model and all it needs is the suspension finished!! LOL. Jody Hey Jody Try spraying your black, wait an hour, then shoot your Alclad. The Alclad needs To "BITE" into the paint before it's totally dry, so it won't wear off as easily when you can handle it. Also, what guy's don't take seriously enough, is that to get the optimum results, at least for me, they are certain steps that need to be followed. (1) Spray a like-brand clear over your black. This gives depth for the chrome to 'DAZZLE" . "LIGHT REFRACTION" plays a huge role in the finished appearance of Alclad type finishes (There are others). A diamond sparkles because it had depth and clarity - same with Alclad when you use clear, and it's GLOSSY. Same with candies and metal-flakes. I always clear over the candy base color of silver or gold, or the flake, before I shoot the color - GIVES WAY MORE DAZZLE . Allows the light to bounce around in the clear before it reflects back to your eye. (2) Alclad LOVES WARMTH I shoot mine at 80 degrees and it can be handled really well in an hour. Brush the fine particles off with a fine make-up brush for a much nicer finished appearance. If you can't shoot yours at that temp, try using a food dehydrator if you have one, or wait a minimum of a week to dry before handling - IT MUST BE DRY, AND IT NEEDS THAT INITIAL BITE not to wear off easily - GOTTA HAVE BOTH .
E St. Kruiser50 Posted December 31, 2009 Author Posted December 31, 2009 Here you go Ben . If you have the time, read all the posts, as there is a wealth of info from other's who posted as well. Best of luck - IT JUST TAKES PRACTICE .
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