coopdad

Guys, I MIGHT still have the html files for those pages that I saved when I left that job. it might take a while to find but...

The first model that I MUST have in a very long time! We are saving up our pennies!

Sat, 3/16/2013 Smoky Mountain Mini-Con 2013 Hollingsworth Auditorium in Ellington Plant Sciences Buildin 2588 E.J. Chapman Drive Knoxville, South East, TN 37996 Registration: 9:00am-1:00pm Raffle: 1:00 Awards: 4:00 Admission fees are $10 for 3 models and $1 for each additional. Raffle tickets: $1 each Vendor Mart - Shopping Wheelchair Accessible Children Welcome Map: http://goo.gl/maps/Iy0cH Contact Information: Larry: 865-769-4236 Vendors: Dan: 865-591-6755 Website http://knoxvillemodelclub.webs.com

Just found out the 2013 dates for the Cookeville show: March 9, 2013. Flier: http://public.fotki.com/Tank33/middle_tennessee/mtma-show-flyer/2012-mtma-show-flyer/2013-show-flyer.html#media

The only thing wrong with it is that it is not on my shelf! Seriously, great job... the color is perfect!

Ditto, great choice in color and great job with build! I am going to have to pick up another one of these during Christmas...you have me inspired to build a stocker.

Awesome!!! (but aren't all Broncos?) Seriously, get job with both the buildup, year change, and mud effect. A for the tail lights, you could aways tell people yours was Ted Nugent's Full Size after another upgrade. His is an early 80s with a "simple" front clip change (like your model). I too am converting an 80s to a late 90s Bronco... what a pain. Really wish one of the model companies would do it for us.

I have found that clear fruit containers, like the ones that strawberries and grapes come in, have great "glass". It is super thin (to scale) so it is easily cut and bent, and most panels on the packages are flat. Sorry, the only photo of it I have but you can see how thin it is.

Hey Cranky, how do you "attach" your dirt to the bed? Watered down white glue? j

Haven't posted in a while... things have been rough in our 1:1 so after didn't model for a while. But getting back to building have been therapeutic. So lately I have been building quickly. Want to finish to start another less difficult project. Anyway, here is the latest photos. Finished the interior (for the most part), the body sides, nose/aluminum engine compartment panels: So, it is finally getting close. Very few, maybe 20 more parts to install. The decals on the chrome (thanks Clint, haven't forgotten you) will be a challenge but gotta bite the bullet and get them on in order to finish. And again, that darn super glue! After this thing is done I will be finding another brand! John

Inspiring as usual Chuck! I had been toying with building one of these for an old Ice Cream maker they bring out to one of the local craft shows. I might just start. John

Gang, I bit the bullet this weekend and "just did it". Here is what I figured out: Also, because visualizing can be difficult sometimes I sketched out the why I believe the straps go through the buckles: Keep in mind, the belt widths are not drawn to scale and buckles are not drawn exactly as they are in the set. So the very thin "B" belt is just simplified drawing. Also keep in mind this diagram is based on the buckles that come with this particular set of Detail Master PE belts, not other brands (though they might be the same). Hope this helps someone... it sure would have helped me last weekend. John

Can some explain to me why some auctions say "no reserve" but there is a minimum price that it forces you to use? I emailed ebay about this and got back a "thank you for your concern..." form letter. John

The perfect build to be viewing as I watch the Moto GP I recorded a few weeks ago. Stoner and the Ducati in the lead. Great job! Keep posting! John

Gang, I am trying to make heads or tails of Detail Master's PE Racing harness. The instructions have handy templates for cutting the belts (marked A-D) but they failed to say which goes to which buckle. Can any body match up the numbers in this photo with the letters in the instructions? Is there #8 and #9? I think that "C", the one with the rounded end, goes with #6. But that is a guess. Thanks in advance, John

Oh yea, forgot to mention. If you want to make anything specific and are having trouble, please ask us. Someone will have a technique that you can try. John

Emanuel, I gotta say, I really love your concepts for your models! But I think if you get some more "model-appropriate" material, your final model would show your thoughts better. Cardboard is really difficult to work with. Try to find some styrene. Realtor signs are a good cheap source. And with that you will need a good sharp knife, plastic glue and a ruler. With a little practice I think your work will really shine. I look forward to seeing your next new idea! John

Hey webmaster, I am getting a missing icon for: www.modelcarsmag.com/forums/public/style_images/comfy/topicpreview.png OK to delete the post when it is uploaded. Just thought you would want to know. John

Thanks much for the kind words Steve. Yes, most parts I did have to make. The only things I did not make are sprinkled around the model: most everything on engine/tranny is either from other kits, front I beams, fuel filler "thingys". Other stuff I sorta made (modified then cast) were the seats, rear pumpkin, wheels and body panels/hood. The radiators were all made from pieces of old radiators from my parts box. I cut out the center part and made new sides to make it the correct size or shape. Everything is just styrene rod or sheet. Hit the link in my signature to see more detailed photos. Decal paper... from the papers I have found I believe most, if not all, all use the same paper. Micro Mark and Testors both have the same text in the same font in the same color on the back. And I did not notice a difference in opacity. I did notice that the larger decals I printed on white did crack some. Not sure if it was the clear coat spray I used (not thick enough) but it was like the paper expanded. The clear paper did not do it. John

Thanks Ed for the offer. I might take you up on it. Yes, those decals were a challenge. For those decals with the white outline I built them then put them on a gold background. After printing (on white paper) I carefully cut out the decal up the to gold edge. For instance the "Big Oly" on this wing, the gold will be cut away leaving the black outline with white paper inside. The reason for putting on the gold is if I don't get exactly to the black edge a little gold will show... and being on gold paint it won't show too much. Works great with simple decals like the circle of Castrol but very tough for "Big Oly". Like I said, white paper...on an ink jet printer. But I did print the whole set again on clear paper for the decals on the white areas. And yes built as eps files saved out as pdf (since my printer likes pdf more than eps). CMYK. Be careful to check all your blacks for CMYK and 0% C, 0% M, 0% Y, 100% black rather than rich blacks or RBG blacks. Anything more than 100% black will show registration issues of you printer. I learned that the hard way with my last build. Hope this explains it. Let me know if I didn't... it is getting late. John

Steve, sounds like we are brothers... both own Broncos, both graphic guys, both NEED a Bronco kit. There has been many threads in the past but nothing really comes of it. I was really hoping that Tamiya would be coming out with one since they were spotted at Fab Fords a few years ago going over an EB. But sadly the measurements they took were for a RC body not plastic kit. Hey keep your fingers crossed, they have all they need to do it if they just will. A couple more photos of the progress of Oly... As always, any questions, PLEASE ask. John

Either color... both perfectly applied! Excellent job! John

I am not sure if I am the only one but I want to be sure my son can visit a thread like this... I grabbed his first and packed it away. Hopefully he will become as sentimental as his old man and remember the wonderful times back when he was a kid. Not my first model but I remember building a B-52 kit that Santa brought one Christmas morning, finished it before my parents got out of bed. John

Yes, what's up? Anything new? I have heard from a "reliable source" that AFX cast theirs off a Cheez Cast body after they closed up shop. The source said that he thought the original molds were never sold to anybody. I am pretty sure that the Cheez Cast Bronco is a exactly like all the other resin Early Broncos: cast from the Gay Toys plastic toy already mentioned. The only difference is that the kit contained more than just the body, also had some basic suspension parts. Most of the resin ones made since then are a simple (and often crummy) pull of the body and interior only. More info A resin EB is pretty easily found on ebay right now. Have not seen it in person so cannot vouch for the quality. John