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Posted

I'm glad to know that your surgery went well Chris. It must be nice being back at the bench.

Driveshafts I usually paint for a steel or black rusty iron color. But that depends on what you want your build to look like.

Didn't some of the cars of that era use some kind of leather torque tube as a driveshaft?

David G.

Posted
19 hours ago, David G. said:

I'm glad to know that your surgery went well Chris. It must be nice being back at the bench.

Driveshafts I usually paint for a steel or black rusty iron color. But that depends on what you want your build to look like.

Didn't some of the cars of that era use some kind of leather torque tube as a driveshaft?

David G.

Thanks David

Yes some early vehicle did have leather boots on the driveshaft. I originally planed on painting the driveshaft tube (Bear in mind it is only a tube not the driveshaft as the driveshaft runs inside the external tube which acts as a locating device and is attached to the end of the gearbox with a ball and socket arrangement) aluminum color and then I saw a full sized vehicle with a similar diff arrangement and the nugget was the only aluminum part, Now I'm not sure how I want it to look.

Posted
On 11/7/2025 at 2:35 AM, oldnslow said:

Good to hear your surgery went well . Now , back to business on the 32 😎 , looking good .

 

On 11/6/2025 at 9:28 PM, Kanada Kustoms said:

Cool build… Lots of great details!

Thanks Guys

  • 2 weeks later...
Posted

Well while I've been of work recovering I ordered a few goodies for this and another model namely a photo etched radiator face and I already had a grille put aside.

Radiator_1.jpg.4149f7847447af4bde3edf68f4046c44.jpg

The radiator is molded as part of the grille surround on this kit so I got out the scriber and scribed around the inside of the grille shell.

Radiator_2.jpg.172733cde2bf71d9ef6e3d1ab2c15719.jpg

And sanded down the back until I reached the scribe

Radiator_3.jpg.939bf605da873966eed078375b13563a.jpg

With a little bit of smoothing and some more material removed from the top back to more simulate a better surround thickness this should be good

Radiator_4.jpg.4c6b27f27bab8f7316638bb40e821c05.jpg

 

  • 2 weeks later...
Posted

Managing to get a little bench time this morning between Dr and Physio appointments. 
After cleaning the grille surround up I noted that the photo etched grille I have is for the Revell 32 and the early Monogram grilles are a little different dimension wise. I pulled out a Revell model I have and confirmed that the grille fits nicely.
rather than use the Revell grille surround I decided to widen the Monogram one to suit.

First of I cut the grille shell in half perfectly in the middle at the top and inserted a piece of styrene sheet in the split making sure that the surround was flat on the mat and that the styrene also sat flat on the mat. This way the surround remained square, I glued this in with Tamyia thin cement.

wideninggrillesurround_1.jpg.c3a09b827da0cf24b3c2d86cf6e0c13d.jpg

 Once it was dry I trimmed back the styrene to a closer shape and checked the Grille fit, it looked good so I continued on and cut the bottom of the surround and inserted and glued a a piece of styrene sheet into the bottom of the surround

wideninggrillesurround_2.jpg.bf2fb91fba1af534be2839fdd9e90553.jpg

 

 

Posted

I found a suitable radiator in my parts box originally from an old release Monogram 53 Chev. It was mounded complete with Rad core support and horns, I cut the core support and horns away from the radiator and through them back in the parts box as those horns could come in handy at a latter date. 

NewRadiator_2.jpg.8dbae63e3022c221950643ec5fd13936.jpg


It was too wide so i cut the width down a little and made a frame from styrene so that I could slide two pieces of the photo etch radiator face into it spaced apart with a suitable wide strips of styrene. A little more detailing, adding the inlet and outlets to the top and bottom tanks and as well as the filler neck and radiator cap. I will also add some thin strips of styrene around the bottom of the top tank and top of the bottom tank to mimic the flanges that the tanks are soldered into. I may also reshape the top tank a little to get ride of the bump where the original top rad hose fitting would attach.

The grille surround is now the correct dimensions for the grille to fit neatly I will add the crank tube to the apron and some styrene tubes glued to the rear of the apron that will correspond with some wire pins glue to the front of the chassis cross member so as to mount the grille and surround to the chassis I'm going to do something similar with pins glued into the bottom of the radiator bottom tank that will slide into holes drilled into the top of the same cross member.

NewRadiator_1.jpg.0239048db771cba98dc83c35e122a206.jpg

 

Posted

Radiator a lot closer now Just the filler neck and radiator cap to fit now. If glued a pin to the bottom of the radiator to locate it in the correct place. 
That big Hemi is a bit of a squeeze between the cowl and radiator but it fits

Radiator_6.jpg.b2c4d85cd8199f37bd75e624e991c55a.jpg

Radiator_5.jpg.4bc9f8d22e2c79acbc4aced777e0a928.jpg

 

  • Like 1
Posted
4 hours ago, David G. said:

It looks good. Do you have plans for a cooling fan?

David G. 

I have been thinking about it there is not enough room behind the radiator although after this photo was taken i trial fitted the grille suround and found that I need to move the radiator forward as it is too far away from the surround I haven't yet found a suitable electric fan I did think that I could fit a blow through fan in front of the radiator behind the grille if I can find something to fit

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