Edward Gore Posted March 22 Author Share Posted March 22 Worked on some interior cab detail. The assembly instruction sheets for the FUG are very thorough and clear but you have to study carefully. (G49) inserts into the slots and over lapse the front edge of (F6). Then the seat assembly is positioned by the front of part (G48) to the front edge of (F6). The seats assemblies are identical until the build gets to parts (G16), the seat adjustment knobs. Insert and glue one of them into the left side of one then into the right side of the other. Once this is done, the commander’s seat and the operator’s seat are established. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Chastain Posted March 22 Share Posted March 22 Outstanding skills, fun build to watch. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Edward Gore Posted March 22 Author Share Posted March 22 Thanks Gary! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Edward Gore Posted March 23 Author Share Posted March 23 More work on the cab interiors. Filling ejector pin marks. The driver’s cab has these as well but I don’t need to fill them all. One of the control panel parts covers most of it. I only need to fill one on this part, see arrow 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Edward Gore Posted March 24 Author Share Posted March 24 This subassembly now has a sort of, Alejandro "Burda" Burdisio, or Ian McQue, design going on here. Now prepped for primer. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cifenet Posted March 24 Share Posted March 24 Those injection pin marks look to be properly filled! I know they aren’t easy to cover even though they seem quite rudimentary. Nonetheless, you are putting a great effort on this, keep up the good work! 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Edward Gore Posted March 28 Author Share Posted March 28 @cifenet, Thanks again for checking in and for your comments. Base color on. I had to decant an old aerosol can of OSH Safety Green and use the AB. Thanks for looking... 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Edward Gore Posted March 29 Author Share Posted March 29 Added a pin wash of dark green to compliment details on the inside of the cabs. A little on the wheel hubs and seat mechanisms as well. Then masked and sprayed the drive cones ‘chrome’ to simulate polished wear. These will receive a pin wash of bronze and black later. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cifenet Posted March 29 Share Posted March 29 It is definitely unique, and the color is also unique to me. I really wonder how this will all come together! BTW- Is that a Paasche airbrush cup I see in the center? 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Edward Gore Posted March 29 Author Share Posted March 29 This model is based on the Trackmobile but is my own design using kits I already have in the stash. Trackmobiles I see online are usually yellow or orange so I want mine to have that sort of U.S. Forest Service green. Paasche, indeed it is! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Edward Gore Posted March 31 Author Share Posted March 31 Interior detail getting done. Kit decals installed upside-down, probably. They are so tiny. Creating gauge lenses with a drop of Kristal Klear. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cifenet Posted March 31 Share Posted March 31 That Krystal Klear came out super clear, good work! I like how you shape them to be oval. I must have an old bottle, my Krystal Klear dries somewhat yellowish now. I really like the natural looking weathering work too. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Chastain Posted April 2 Share Posted April 2 Great build to watch, well done 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Edward Gore Posted April 2 Author Share Posted April 2 On 3/31/2024 at 11:28 AM, cifenet said: That Krystal Klear came out super clear, good work! I like how you shape them to be oval. I must have an old bottle, my Krystal Klear dries somewhat yellowish now. I really like the natural looking weathering work too. Thanks for the compliments. The dials and gauges are so tiny in 1/35 that I wanted to magnify them. Putting a sort of dome on each one did that I think. The weathering is actually accidental at this point in the build, Lol. 6 hours ago, Gary Chastain said: Great build to watch, well done Thank you for the compliment. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scott Eriksen Posted April 3 Share Posted April 3 I like it! I've done a few 1/35th armored stuff and enjoyed building ,, sort of a conundrum though,SUPER detail but then usually no engine/drivetrain to speak of 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Edward Gore Posted April 3 Author Share Posted April 3 Hi @Scott Eriksen, Thanks for checking in! I'm still in to 1/35 armored stuff when I'm not building static stand alone rolling stock, sci-fi, figures, oddball kit-mash ups, oh yeah or cars and trucks 😁 Recently there are a lot of 1/35 kits from Academy, Amusing Hobby, Border Models, Miniart, Meng.... with full interior including engines, transmission, drive train, and driver compartments. A little pricy for those not interested in the 1/35 scale range starting at $50USD and up. My favorite builds of those kits are when they make them exploded view display builds 👍💡 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Edward Gore Posted April 3 Author Share Posted April 3 Assembling the cabs. I'll mask the openings before painting the outsides. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Edward Gore Posted April 3 Author Share Posted April 3 This was the only way I could figure out how to build and paint the cabs. Paint the insides first then build the cab subassemblies. Then mask from the inside to protect what I've already done inside so I can paint the outside. I still need to glue in all the glass, cleanly as well 🤔 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Edward Gore Posted April 6 Author Share Posted April 6 Window weather stripping painted on the driver cab. Painting the brakeman's cab today. I'm doing this before I glue the glass in place. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gotnitro? Posted April 7 Share Posted April 7 Amazing work and love the color! I've used sponges inside cabins before to protect from overspray, but your method worked great 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Edward Gore Posted April 9 Author Share Posted April 9 @gotnitro? Yes, I'm pleased with the color as well. Sponge method sounds, well sound. May try that next time. Thanks for commenting. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Edward Gore Posted April 9 Author Share Posted April 9 Road wheel assembly. these are the wheels that will drive on pavement off of the railroad. Dry fitting I discovered that the road wheel arms need to be extended further so the drive cones on the traction wheels will make contact like the 1/1 prototype. Traction wheels are slid outboard (rearward) during rail operation and the road wheels are raised up. Then if driving on the paved road the road wheels are lowered and the traction wheels slide inboard (forward) so the drive cones make contact with the rear road wheels to drive. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Edward Gore Posted April 12 Author Share Posted April 12 Working on the hydraulic fittings and hose. I'm making them from insulated solid wire so the road wheel arms can articulate and the hose will have the flex needed. The wire is removed from the flexing part then the insulation is reinserted onto the ends of the wire which will represent fittings and glue into the cylinders. The hydraulic cylinders are mounted with what looks like a giant bolt and washer fastener so I went shopping for Scale Hardware. This will also allow articulation of the road wheel arms with a strong fastener. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Edward Gore Posted April 12 Author Share Posted April 12 Gluing in the hydraulic lines for the road wheel arm cylinders. A few decals set onto position. Thanks for looking in ... 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cifenet Posted April 16 Share Posted April 16 I think the details you are adding are very interesting and fun to look at. You definitely have a sense of “feel” on how to bring out key characteristics on this build. That hydraulic lines will easily enhance the quality of the finished build! 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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