Western Star 4900 FA plow truck

[Biggu]

10 minutes ago, BK9300 said:

My apologies!  I did that with Jeff a long time ago - it won't happen again.,

Call me anything you want just not ‘late for dinner’ 🤣🤣

[Pete68]

49 minutes ago, BK9300 said:

won't happen again.,

It’s ok Brian you been calling me by my name Lee for the longest time. 😂 there’s so many on here sometimes it’s hard to keep up with names. 

[BK9300]

It has been a gratifying morning!  I managed to not bend my aluminum strap for holding down the plow's rubber deflector, so that was a relief.  Got the metal strap 'bolted' to top edge of plow, securing the deflector in place.  The most satisfying part came when I did a test re-assembly of the front plow - its been apart since all the parts were painted back in August/24!  Still one part to paint and chains to add, once it is ready to mount on lift group, some fasteners to replace with smaller, scale appropriate sizes, but good to see it assembled.

Painted 0.2mm aluminum strap, with pre-drilled holes, ready to be CA glued in place; I then needed to drill holes in rubber and the top edge of plow

 

Using Top Studio Hex Rivets for bolts

 

All holes drilled and bolts CA glued in place from the underside - still need to add spot applications of epoxy where bolts come through on underside to firmly secure bolts in place.  The bolt pattern spacing looks inconsistent on the left portion, but that is what it was like on actual plow

 

The aluminum strip was very scale suitable for the deflector hold down strap

 

So, here's all the sub-assemblies that make up the front plow - the plow itself, the adjustable tubing brace (can adjust angle of attack for plow blade), the push frame, two sets of plow shoes and the swivel mount that will attach to the bumper lift group.  When I looked at this picture, I did a quick inventory of the pieces that made up these plow parts - 66 pieces of styrene, 20 heads of dress pins for blade carriage bolt heads, 20 resin nut/bolt ends for the backside of the blades, 17 brass/aluminum fasteners/rivets/pins, 2 white metal clevises, the rubber deflector and the aluminum strip - 127 pieces in total!  Still need to add a couple warning flags to pins on either side of plow tube.

 

Various angles of the assembled front plow

 

 

The adjustable tube brace still needs to be painted and several of the brass 00-90 fasteners may be replaced with slightly smaller aluminum fasteners from Scale Hardware - that's going to depend on whether or not my fingers/tweezers can manipulate the smaller fasteners!

 

Edited January 7 by BK9300

[Scott Eriksen]

12 minutes ago, BK9300 said:

It has been a gratifying morning!  I managed to not bend my aluminum strap for holding down the plow's rubber deflector, so that was a relief.  Got the metal strap 'bolted' to top edge of plow, securing the deflector in place.  The most satisfying part came when I did a test re-assembly of the front plow - its been apart since all the parts were painted back in August/24!  Still one part to paint and chains to add, once it is ready to mount on lift group, some fasteners to replace with smaller, scale appropriate sizes, but good to see it assembled.

Painted 0.2mm aluminum strap, with pre-drilled holes, ready to be CA glued in place; I then needed to drill holes in rubber and the top edge of plow

 

Using Top Studio Hex Rivets for bolts

 

All holes drilled and bolts CA glued in place from the underside - still need to add spot applications of epoxy where bolts come through on underside to firmly secure bolts in place.  The bolt pattern spacing looks inconsistent on the left portion, but that is what it was like on actual plow

 

The aluminum strip was very scale suitable for the deflector hold down strap

 

So, here's all the sub-assemblies that make up the front plow - the plow itself, the adjustable tubing brace (can adjust angle of attack for plow blade), the push frame, two sets of plow shoes and the swivel mount that will attach to the bumper lift group.  When I looked at this picture, I did a quick inventory of the pieces that made up these plow parts - 66 pieces of styrene, 20 heads of dress pins for blade carriage bolt heads, 20 resin nut/bolt ends for the backside of the blades, 17 brass/aluminum fasteners/rivets/pins, 2 white metal clevises, the rubber deflector and the aluminum strip - 127 pieces in total!  Still need to add a couple warning flags to pins on either side of plow tube.

 

Various angles of the assembled front plow

 

 

The adjustable tube brace still needs to be painted and several of the brass 00-90 fasteners may be replaced with slightly smaller aluminum fasteners from Scale Hardware - that's going to depend on whether or not my fingers/tweezers can manipulate the smaller fasteners!

 

The blade is a model in itself! Looks great Brian 

[Pete68]

1 hour ago, BK9300 said:

All holes drilled and bolts CA glued in place from the underside

Neat and Clean Brian. No glue globs under the bolt heads here or crooked or even bolt heads. The plow looks incredible. I’ve been thinking for a long time to build a Mack R Tandem using the Dump Bed, Plow and Salt spreader from the Louisville kit. I know there kinda crude but I’m a Box Stock builder so it doesn’t matter to me. Your build is just encouraging me on to start it. Thanks for sharing your great work. 

Edited January 7 by Pete68

[Pete68]

1 hour ago, Scott Eriksen said:

The blade is a model in itself!

You got that right Scott as a matter of fact the whole build is. 

[BK9300]

1 hour ago, Scott Eriksen said:

The blade is a model in itself! Looks great Brian 

Much appreciated, Scott!  There is some relief in getting the plow parts to all fit together after the paint.  Now, back to front bumper lift cylinder!

[BK9300]

32 minutes ago, Pete68 said:

Neat and Clean Brian. No glue globs under the bolt heads here or crooked or even bolt heads. The plow looks incredible. I’ve been thinking for a long time to build a Mack R Tandem using the Dump Bed, Plow and Salt spreader from the Louisville kit. I know there kinda crude but I’m a Box Stock builder so it doesn’t matter to me. Your build is just encouraging me on to start it. Thanks for sharing your great work. 

You know, Lee, I have that Louisville kit, too.  There's lots of detail in that kit's attachments, especially the tail gate spreader, just like the older Highway's Louisvilles used to have here in BC.  I just decided to go with a more modern truck like the ones we had at the time of my retirement.  An out of the box build will always look great, with the attention paid to paint and some extra detailing like you do anyway.  I think the build you're thinking about would turn out to be a good looking truck!  And thanks, as always, for the gracious compliments.

Edited January 8 by BK9300

[Biggu]

Adjust the cutting edge to 47 degrees for optimal cutting of compact and cleaning down to the black top............. we actually had a metal gauge back in the day 

[BK9300]

43 minutes ago, Biggu said:

Adjust the cutting edge to 47 degrees for optimal cutting of compact and cleaning down to the black top............. we actually had a metal gauge back in the day 

I noted on the real plow, and in a manual for a Tenco plow, that there are two holes at the bottom of each side of the plow where it attaches to the push frame - the real plow was attached to the push frame using the top holes.  The manual said these two holes were also to adjust the cutting angle.  Don't know when that would ever be changed as it seems that the adjustable tubular brace would be much more practical for doing that based on changing road conditions??!

Edited January 8 by BK9300

[Biggu]

The tube brace on the back side of the plow is usually the adjustment and the lower bolts on the push frame are usually part of the trip mechanism …..  also the lift chains have to be adjusted so that the toe of the blade ( the front corner bit ) has to lift first, then the heel of the blade ( discharge chute end ) lifts last. The chains should be as tight as possible , so as when plowing and coming to an obstruction you can lift the blade immediately and not wait for the lift ram to take the slack out of the lift chain thus hitting the obstruction causing damage to the plow and or truck ….. also the optimum mounting height on the truck is 15 inches from ground level to mounting pins. There actually is some science to this. 

Edited January 8 by Biggu

[Biggu]

The main plow adjustment of 47 degrees was usually set by the shop and was rarely ever readjusted unless the blade had to have some major work done and had to be taken apart. That was usually after an accident or hitting a bridge abutment, protruding man hole cover, horsing into the no post guard rail and bending the blade and or walking over the blade , anything that needed major repairs. The usual driver adjustments were obviously when mounting the blade to the truck with the chains. The other adjustments usually done by the operator are the plow shoes and foot legs. That happens when changing cutting edges, and shoes. Cannot change one without the other. Cutting edge and shoes have to ride on the road surface together. If the shoes are not adjusted with the cutting edge, the plow can effectively dig in on soft ground causing catastrophic damage.  

[Pete68]

1 hour ago, BK9300 said:

just like the older Highway's Louisvilles used to have here in BC.  

Yes you are right same down here very simple set up as I remember as a kid and Bill (My Brother) was a Mechanic and a Plow Driver for our County in the winter months when needed. I remember him talking about them because he also worked on them as well. As you know the kit came out around 1972? I’m sure AMT at the time didn’t slouch on the details but like you said it’s just not modern but great details for the time frame.  It’s always fun to build what you have been around like your doing. 
 

Ok I think I’m going to give it a shot. You know me already I’m very picky when it comes to paint and paint schemes. I’ve never built the plow or the spreader box I’ve built several of the dump beds through. I always had in mine this Safety Orange ( Tangerine color) I’ve had in a Rattle can for years with a black frame and possibly the top of the hood black. Thanks again and I appreciate it. Brian again you have really encouraging me to finally get going on this build after years of it being a dream. 
 

 

[BK9300]

18 minutes ago, Pete68 said:

Ok I think I’m going to give it a shot. You know me already I’m very picky when it comes to paint and paint schemes. I’ve never built the plow or the spreader box I’ve built several of the dump beds through. I always had in mine this Safety Orange ( Tangerine color) I’ve had in a Rattle can for years with a black frame and possibly the top of the hood black. Thanks again and I appreciate it. Brian again you have really encouraging me to finally get going on this build after years of it being a dream. 
 

 

Looking forward to your build, Lee!

[BK9300]

1 hour ago, Biggu said:

The tube brace on the back side of the plow is usually the adjustment and the lower bolts on the push frame are usually part of the trip mechanism …..  also the lift chains have to be adjusted so that the toe of the blade ( the front corner bit ) has to lift first, then the heel of the blade ( discharge chute end ) lifts last. The chains should be as tight as possible , so as when plowing and coming to an obstruction you can lift the blade immediately and not wait for the lift ram to take the slack out of the lift chain thus hitting the obstruction causing damage to the plow and or truck ….. also the optimum mounting height on the truck is 15 inches from ground level to mounting pins. 

Now, you see, this is the type of information that isn't available just from taking pics or looking in a manual.  I appreciate all the info, Jeff, and especially the part about the chains lifting the toe of the front plow first.  I think all of my other geometry is ok to make that happen if I adjust the chains like you said - I'll give it a go in a few days!  Thanks, Jeff.

[BK9300]

Been a very good day - finally have an actual 'roller' - very pleased with the look after all this time. . .

 

Poseable steering still works after all this

 

 

 

Just have to attach the bulkhead fitting, attach the two hoses at the inside part of the fitting, the lift cylinder hoses to the front of the fitting and I will be able to temporarily fit the front plow in place (Jeff, I lucked out with my ground level to mounting pin height at a scale 17").  Then I think I need to get decals on the sander and get it permanently mounted on the truck.  I appreciate the comments and thanks for taking the time to have a look - its been a marathon, for sure!

[Biggu]

Actually 15-19 inches is all in the acceptable range. The bolts on the push frame that attaches the plow is also as you mention an adjustment to the correct cutting angle. There should be two of them as you show so accurately …. Outstandingly accurate , Brian !

[BK9300]

51 minutes ago, Biggu said:

Actually 15-19 inches is all in the acceptable range. The bolts on the push frame that attaches the plow is also as you mention an adjustment to the correct cutting angle. There should be two of them as you show so accurately …. Outstandingly accurate , Brian !

I went back the 'manual' - it was for a Henderson plow, not a Tenco - and it stated that the lower hole on the plow was to be the attachment point when carbide tipped blades were in use, increasing the blade's angle of attack to 60 degrees - so much design effort in a snow plow!

 

 

Edited January 8 by BK9300
typo

[Biggu]

I hated the carbide one way cutting edges. Longevity for sure but could not cut compact at all. I always opted for the old school cutting edges. We used to put carbides on the underbodys and they lasted well, but again could not cut compact. A couple of us decided that double ice blades ( serrated ) on the underbody was the way to go… so if the one way had a carbide it would be generating compact, the operator could drop the underbody and help cut the compact. A number of years ago the down pressure of the underbodys was lightened up from 1400 psi to 720. A management decision and not an operators idea …..

[Pete68]

Rolling chassis looks great Brian. 

[BK9300]

18 minutes ago, Pete68 said:

Rolling chassis looks great Brian. 

Thanks, Lee - good feeling to have the truck up on its 'feet'!

[Pete68]

13 minutes ago, BK9300 said:

Thanks, Lee

Your welcome. Yes I like that feeling 

[gotnitro?]

Interesting build to follow w all the information about plow trucks, most of us never realize when they pass . 

The details blow my mind, thanks for posting your work

[Jürgen M.]

That looks just perfect! I could actually imagine you being a giant working at a huge workbench with a real truck on it!

[Bronzekeg]

awesome build with great details!