E St. Kruiser50 Posted April 14, 2009 Posted April 14, 2009 Before......................................... ....................................after No primer this time, just straight on the bare plastic. The paint job itselfe look's fabulous so far. Only issue is, I still got some spots under the paint from hair particles or whatever that couldn't be helped. Should probably let this dry till tomarrow before doing anything with it. Congratulations !!! It looks beautiful, and YOU SHOULD BE VERY PROUD OF YOURSELF !!! GREAT JOB ON A WONDERFUL KIT - dave
FujimiLover Posted April 14, 2009 Author Posted April 14, 2009 Thank you guy's. My hardest bit now is to WAIT for the paint to dry completely. Probably Thuresday maybe? Yes, I will wet sand those imperfections down and recoat it. Then the headache will be making sure that when I hand-paint, I do a flawless job. I will mask some areas, but wont' mask everything. Just mask the edges where I'll be hand painting. I like to do the black trim BEFORE clear coating. Any detail work I do after clear coating seems to scratch or fade after time. I like to protect everything with clear coat. I'm just jealous of how well the other guy did his interior! Look's awesome! However, I think the Ivory White will look just as nice inside the red. I just tried to paint flat-red over the flat-blue on my interior, and I think the paint was runny as I made a mistake on the seatbelts. So, it'll have to be repainted all over agin. Should I use flat red, or gloss red for the seatbelts, steering wheel, and gear knob?
Foxer Posted April 14, 2009 Posted April 14, 2009 I LOVE happy endings!! this is looking good! Just one note ... most black trim is flat, or at most semi-gloss. The black trim is best done after you apply your gloss clear coats or you'll be back masking and painting the trim with flat or semi-gloss clear anyway. Hope you're not getting too bent at us in the cheering section here. we are all defiantly CHEERING for ya!
MrObsessive Posted April 14, 2009 Posted April 14, 2009 Aahhhh! Now that's more like it! When you go to wet sand just be careful around the edges and the corners..............working slowly will make a nice job nicer. In the future to speed up drying of your paint jobs, you might want to look into a food dehydrator with a temp control. They run about 40 bucks at the Wally World................when your able to get your finances together. This is especially great for also drying those stubborn water based acrylics so they're rock hard.
FujimiLover Posted April 14, 2009 Author Posted April 14, 2009 (edited) Thank's guy's. I am aware that the trim is flat black, but it's easier to create the semi-gloss look by painting theme flat black first, and then clear coating. That is how I did it on my grey RX7. The window-trim plastic has more semi-gloss to it I think then pure flat, or pure gloss. I still like to seal in ALL THE PAINT when done. Nobodies answered my question about clear coating over the windows! Can/should I do that to protect the Koenig logo window banner? Despite the spots, it still look's ton's better up close and personal. I think the issue I had with my previous red Koenig, was I probably primed it with gray and used a different Italian red paint and that's probably why it turned out flat and ugly. The Tamiya TS-8 is really nice! I'm going to wait till tomarrow before flipping the body over to paint the underside. Edited April 14, 2009 by FujimiLover
CAL Posted April 14, 2009 Posted April 14, 2009 (edited) Thank's guy's. I am aware that the trim is flat black, but it's easier to create the semi-gloss look by painting theme flat black first, and then clear coating. That is how I did it on my grey RX7. The window-trim plastic has more semi-gloss to it I think then pure flat, or pure gloss. I still like to seal in ALL THE PAINT when done. Nobodies answered my question about clear coating over the windows! Can/should I do that to protect the Koenig logo window banner? I have only with Future though. Vacuum formed clear with future Edited April 14, 2009 by CAL
Chas SCR Posted April 15, 2009 Posted April 15, 2009 For even brighter Red. With out changing to a different can of red go instead of using white use Yellow. Yellow will pop Red .06 points higher in the Hue change and it comes of a lot brighter red then you can think of. If you start with like a really bright red just think of it popping even more. White has been the base for a long long time till they figur it out with the hue paint reader.
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