Biggu Posted October 23, 2024 Posted October 23, 2024 6 minutes ago, RoninUtah said: Thanks, Jeff, for the tip on the Cummins! I think I’ll go with that, I went ahead and ordered one off eBay. It looks like a NH 250, which would be right for this build. Was it a resin 250 or a former kit ? Just nosey with that question , and a 250 would be just right ! I’m curious if you are going to have to move motor mounts too??
RoninUtah Posted October 24, 2024 Author Posted October 24, 2024 No, there's an eBay seller called Modelsbysimon who sells parts of various kits. I've bought a bunch of stuff from him over the years. Yeah, it will take some adjustments for sure, but nothing too major I hope! 1
leafsprings Posted October 24, 2024 Posted October 24, 2024 Great subject, and good luck with the modifications. There was a resin mid 60's Pete cabover done at one time, but it is super rare. I don't have the scratch building skills to build one, hopefully they become available again. 1
RoninUtah Posted October 24, 2024 Author Posted October 24, 2024 20 minutes ago, leafsprings said: There was a resin mid 60's Pete cabover done at one time, but it is super rare. Yes, that was made by Dave Natalie from a master created by Tim Ahlborn. It was in production for only a short time before the molds were damaged, and Dave never brought it back before he passed away. it was gone from the AITM catalogue by the time I started buying from Dave a few years ago. Tim sent me detailed photos and notes of the master, which is what I'm basing this build on. Needless to say, my scratchbuilding skills are far more limited than Tim's, so this won't turn out nearly as nicely as Tim's models. But I'll do what I can with it! 2
RoninUtah Posted October 29, 2024 Author Posted October 29, 2024 Hi, Jeff, thanks for asking! Unfortunately, not much has happened on this build. The demolition phase is about done. The interior is getting a flat dashboard so I had to clear space for that. The doghouse will be about the same; the gap/ scar will be covered by some padding ( which I’m not sure how I’ll make)… The modern Peterbilt 579 build somehow jumped in front. It’s getting close to done, so I’ll be getting back to this one soon! 1
Biggu Posted October 29, 2024 Posted October 29, 2024 (edited) Thanks for the update. Always interesting. I will be looking forward to this one going back to the front of the line. This is a VERY interesting build. Jeff Edited October 29, 2024 by Biggu
Rockford Posted October 29, 2024 Posted October 29, 2024 To look at the two cabs you really wouldn't think there was that much difference but once you start digging in it's amazing the number of little changes required. Well done. 1
RoninUtah Posted October 30, 2024 Author Posted October 30, 2024 Thanks, Steve, yeah, there are quite a few differences... I'm trying to hit the big ones, but there will me some that I inevitably miss. If I can get it reasonably close I'll be happy. Anyway, a little progress, since I did finish the 579. As soon as the weather clears up and there's a little sun I'll get some pics and post it "under glass." It did turn out pretty nicely. Anyway, back to this one: I decided to tackle the lower body panels. Since the step is much different, along with a few more subtle things, I decided to cut out the old ones and replace them in sheet styrene. First step is to trace the overall shape by placing the styrene against the bottom of the cab to trace the contour with a pencil: And then carefully cut it out. This is when I can draw the cab step opening and the wheel cutout based on my reference material: Test fit with tape on the backside, looks generally okay- Then do the same with the other side. Here I've overlaid the two to make sure the wheel openings are similar: And then cement strips to the back to mount it. It has to be solid, with no wiggle, or the putty will crack. And finally, install them, trying to keep the plane of the new pieces even with the existing cab, so it can by puttied and sanded smooth: Looks like I might have to widen the wheel opening further to the front on the right side. I'll look at it more closely tomorrow. Next is the the exhaust stack cut out. Then more filling, putty, sand, putty, sand, putty, sand... Thanks for following! 1
Biggu Posted October 30, 2024 Posted October 30, 2024 Fun to follow , Ron. Great engineering. A really interesting conversion. I’m watching with great interest. Keep up the great work. Jeff
Jürgen M. Posted October 30, 2024 Posted October 30, 2024 Looks pretty good Ron! I used to work a lot with styrene sheets. It's great for these things! Keep going! 1
RoninUtah Posted November 1, 2024 Author Posted November 1, 2024 More work on the cab... first, the exhaust stack cutout. I cemented the corner of the cab that I had cut off earlier to where the new corner will be: And then attached a piece of cut and sliced plastic soda straw to form the curve to close it: Plastic soda straws can be very useful. I've made many an exhaust pipe with them, using the bendy part to line it up where I want it! Anyway, now for the headlight bezels. They should be slightly inboard and slightly lower than stock, so I cut out openings in about the right places. I then flipped the stock headlight surrounds backward and cemented them in, using small round and strip styrene to fill the gaps. These also have tabs on the back to make sure they're rigid when I apply the putty. They'll take a little grinding and smoothing to make them flush before I apply the putty. Hopefully, tomorrow! 3
RoninUtah Posted November 2, 2024 Author Posted November 2, 2024 Putty #1- I put it on a little thick for the first layer: Sanded this morning. I need to add reinforcement to the lower front corners. It looks like at least two more rounds of putty and sanding before I can test the surface smoothness with primer. 2
BK9300 Posted November 2, 2024 Posted November 2, 2024 Great idea using the straw for your exhaust indent in the cab. I don’t much like body work, so good on you for taking on a lot of it! 1 1
leafsprings Posted November 3, 2024 Posted November 3, 2024 Cab is looking older and older by the day. Great work! 1 1
RoninUtah Posted November 3, 2024 Author Posted November 3, 2024 Continuing on... the cab is pretty close. I decided to add styrene strips below the headllights for some extra room for when I install the headlight surrounds. Maybe one more round of putty and sanding before the first coat of primer. I have a bit of a dilemma with the engine, though. I built the Cummins 250; it does't fit quite as nicely as the Detroit. I can make it fit, of course, but then I'd be faced with having to improvise the air and exhaust plumbing, when I can probably just use the kit plumbing with the Detroit. And the Cummins engine is much longer, so the transmission will stick out behind the cab, although that will be hidden beneath a step plate. I'd have to do some major surgery on the driveshaft, too. Either engine would be period appropriate. What do you guys think? I'm almost embarrassed to show the chassis after seeing Jeff's work! Now I'm thinking about the interior. I discovered, to my surprise, that my kit (the newer CocaCola version) came with a California Hauler 359 dashboard instead of the 352 dashboard! Did that happen to you, Jeff, or anyone else who has done this kit recently? It's probably okay, though, since I'm making a flat dash; I can graft the part with the dials and such onto the styrene strip I'll be using. AMT always makes it interesting! 1
Biggu Posted November 3, 2024 Posted November 3, 2024 Hey Ron......... you are too kind to me, yes mine did come with the California Hauler dash but also the insert for the 352 is a separate piece, it is part #72, and on the sprue with one of the front springs and bed etc... check in the bags before you go to all the trouble to change things out, as it is a specific piece and grafting the flat dash wouldn't be very good... the part may have broken off, it is an 'L' shape piece...
RoninUtah Posted November 4, 2024 Author Posted November 4, 2024 I found it, thanks! That will work just fine with my new flat dash. Appreciate the help! 1
Biggu Posted November 4, 2024 Posted November 4, 2024 10 minutes ago, RoninUtah said: I found it, thanks! That will work just fine with my new flat dash. Appreciate the help! Excellent ….
Jürgen M. Posted November 4, 2024 Posted November 4, 2024 Jeff was faster! Yes, my Pacemaker kit came with both dashes too, no idea why! But I wouldn't have known the part no. anymore! Can't wait to see more of this Ron! 1
Rockford Posted November 4, 2024 Posted November 4, 2024 (edited) Looking at the engine, I suppose ease of building would say go for the Detroit, though saying the kit plumbing will fit is more wishful thinking with AMTstuff. Looking at the Cummins, I think the front crossmenber goes behind the front pulley which would move it forwards bit, but not enough to save altering the driveshaft. I'd say Detroit. Love the cab mods, well done. Edited November 4, 2024 by Rockford Added pics 1
RoninUtah Posted November 4, 2024 Author Posted November 4, 2024 I agree, I think I'll go with the Detroit; I'll paint it white and it will match the engine in my (new) California Hauler. 1
RoninUtah Posted November 4, 2024 Author Posted November 4, 2024 Just noticed that those are White Freightliner instructions... Of course! I could also adapt the plumbing from an AMT White Freightliner kit- I have about 4 or 5 partial WF kits left over from being donors, so I might have most of the parts I need. I'll look at it more carefully, but I'm still leaning toward the Detroit. 1
Rockford Posted November 4, 2024 Posted November 4, 2024 It was just for the installation of the Cummins, any marque of truck would use the same method. 1
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